About Maria Johnson

I was born on the northwest coast of England. I first arrived in Santa Fe in 1984. I had traveled extensively for many years as a fashion model, and lived in many amazing places; New York, Paris, London, L.A. I was so taken by the diverse culture, history, landscape, weather and lifestyle of Santa Fe that I decided to make it my home. I finally moved here permanently in 1990. I feel Santa Fe is my true home and I'm so glad that I have been able to live in this enchanted place for so many years. In 2010, I began Santa Fe Selection, the free mobile and online guide to the authentic Santa Fe experience. It is aimed at helping guide travelers to the businesses and experiences that I believe make Santa Fe unique. I hope you're able to visit here someday. There really is no place like it. And if you like my blog, please comment. I am available to help you with your questions about your trip here. Feel free to comment on my blog or contact me directly at info@santafeselection.com or (505) 470-2991. I look forward to hearing from you. Best Wishes, Maria Johnson.

Southwest Buckles, Bolos and Beyond

Posted on September 25, 2013 by Maria Johnson

The Chinese have record of belt buckles beyond utilitarian value from as far back as 2 B.C. Elsewhere, tombs of kings and pharaohs have been unearthed to reveal a cherished buckle or two. It isn’t new that decorative statements of status, prowess and fashion via the buckle have continued to develop style and collectibility through the centuries.

Here, in the relatively young American Southwest, it wasn’t until the mid-1800s, when the Spanish and Mexicans brought their silver folk art in the form of ornamental horse bridles and various other adornments to the Four Corners region, that Native American silverwork began to evolve from its simpler origins.

The skilled, industrious Navajo, Zuni and Hopi artisans soon developed their own distinctive designs and techniques for the beautiful style of the concha or concho (meaning “shell” in Spanish) belts. Decorated with silver shells from tip to tail, and the addition of turquoise and other ethnic accents, these belts heralded a distinguished Southwestern style.

Navajo Silversmith and Concha Belt, photo by George Ben Wittick, 1883

During the Civil War, the military brought symbolic status to the buckle. And later, rodeos would award their champions with an expensive, hefty medallion for their belts.

The concha belt remains as popular now as it ever was. Its timeless appeal and design adaptability works with any fashion trend.

In the1930s, the Texas Ranger utilitarian holster and belt triggered the trend of belt tip-sets. The fashionable ranger tip-sets comprise the belt’s decorated aspects of buckle, one or two holder loops or keepers, and tip. Hollywood Westerns boosted the trend with the likes of John Wayne, Roy Rogers and other cowboys of the silver screen.

Since the mid-Seventies, Santa Fe has been home to James Reid, whose name is synonymous with the highest quality tip-sets and a variety of jewelry accessories, and whose designs have fans the world over.

James Reid

The story of James’ love affair with Southwest silver folk art began in the mid-Sixties – a time of radical change in the trends of society, culture and fashion. Santa Fe was, as it always has been, a hub for many traders from all over the United States. James was one who journeyed from Pagosa Springs, Colorado to Taos and Santa Fe on a regular basis to trade American Indian antiques, and his own creations in leather and silver.

A free spirit on a low budget, and in true hippie style, he drove, worked and slept in a rigged-out school bus, and later a utility van, complete with the addition of a protruding stove-pipe connected to a wood stove that ensured warmth against the chilly northern New Mexico nights. (I begged him for a picture of it, but he swears he no longer has one.) He laughs as he remembers the pine lath work on the interior that, although adding to the “funky” feel, made it a rolling fire hazard.

As he traveled around northern New Mexico, he gathered techniques from silversmiths and artisans. “With a few rudimentary tools, you can learn very quickly by watching and doing,” he says.

James continued his traveling lifestyle until 1974, when fate, destiny, or simple mechanics imposed a change. He set off to return to Colorado when his van/studio/home broke down. That seemingly inconvenient incident led to Santa Fe claiming James as one of its own.

His prolonged stay drew him to become immersed in the serious study of Southwest silverwork. Initially, his designs focused on the belt tip-sets. James saw the potential for extensive creativity in a field that even by the mid-Seventies remained relatively unexplored – and he enjoyed the artistic freedom it afforded. During this time, Southwest silverwork, along with many other Southwest and Native American fashion trends, experienced a renaissance, the popularity of which lasts to this day. James’ tip-set designs took off.

James Reid Tip Sets

A fun play on the theme are these colorful “wrist belts” of alligator leather with silver conchas.

Variety of JR unique Wrist Belts

Classic Southwest Design – Diamond Ray Wrist Belt-JRLTD

But belts were just the beginning for James. Ever since opening his first shop in 1974, James Reid designs have continued to evolve and include a variety of creative plays on traditional and contemporary themes in all jewelry and accessories for men and women.

James Reid. One-of-a-kind, hand-polished, turquoise beads with 18kt gold on leather.

Western Charm Bracelets and Silver Bead Necklaces

Another popular gem is the “bolo” tie. Since the mid 1800s, Hopi, Zuni, Navajo and Pueblo silversmiths have created artistic clasps to hold two ends of leather string in place with style. But the bolo tie has its own history.

The name “bola” (most often spelled and pronounced “bolo”) originates from the South American word “bola,” meaning “ball”. A “bola” (also called a “boleadora”) was a weapon and later a herding tool used by South American cowboys. Weights were attached to the split ends of a long rope, which could be thrown, much like a lasso, to ensnare the target by tangling around its legs.

Argentinian Postcards of Gauchos using Bolas

Some sources say that the bolo tie trend was started in the 1940s when Arizona silversmith Victor Cedarstaff was riding his horse one day, and to prevent the wind from blowing his hat with its valuable silver-tipped hatband off, he drew the hatband down around his neck. His riding partner commented on it being a “nice looking tie.” Victor went on to create bolos and even patented the design. The bolo tie was also helped toward popularity by early Hollywood movies and television characters like Hopalong Cassidy, Roy Rogers and the Cisco Kid. As of 1971, Arizona claimed the bolo tie as its official neckwear. In 2007, New Mexico and Texas did the same.

James Reid Bolo Ties

It has been more than 38 years since James Reid surrendered to Santa Fe’s charms. In 1981, he opened a gallery on Palace Avenue, just steps from the Plaza, and has been there ever since.

James Reid Shop and Gallery at 114 East Palace Ave.

He continues to collaborate with as many as ten local Santa Fe jewelry artists to create refreshing, ornamental styles, and embellish utility with unique beauty.

The Great Western – James Reid Ltd

James Reid designs have established an iconic standard of their own, one of superior quality and a Santa Fe style of timeless sophistication donned by men and women world-wide. And the Southwestern theme remains integral to the inspiration of his modern designs.

Satin Link Chain, 18kt gold pendant with Sleeping Beauty turquoise and diamonds. Hanger is hinged for detachment, so that chain can be worn alone or with other pendants.

Orion Money Clip, Cufflinks and Studs. Deep relief 18kt star in sterling.

It is fun to visit the gallery to see what new creations they have on display and the creative ways they continue to elaborate on the southwestern designs. Often, James is there and happy to share his extensive knowledge of the work that will help you gain appreciation for wearable art that bridges the Southwestern traditional with the contemporary.

For more information on James Reid Ltd please go to:

http://santafeselection.com/unique-shops/james-reid-ltd

Santa Fe Indian Market – Past and Present

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Maria Johnson

What began in 1922 as an adjunct to the annual Fiesta celebration has grown to become the world’s largest, most prestigious independent Native American arts market, and one of the biggest annual cultural events in the Southwest. Now, it is difficult to believe it ever fit inside one building.

In the early 1900s, Native American arts and crafts were sought after by travelers and traders for souvenirs and curios. They wanted something small enough to fit in their travel bags and suitcases. This level of collecting served to endanger the value and craftsmanship of Native art.

Well-known archeologist and anthropologist Edgar Lee Hewett, whose studies focused primarily around the Native cultures of the Southwest, was a prominent figure in support of the preservation and conservation of the cultures’ traditional art forms and prehistoric dwelling ruins. In 1909, he founded and directed the Museum of New Mexico. Museum curator and assistant director Kenneth Chapman worked closely with Hewett and saw the need for educating the public at large on the value of genuine indigenous Southwest arts, if appreciation for the genre was to be sustained.

Edgar Lee Hewett

Hewett, Chapman and the Museum of New Mexico collaborated with the Indian Arts Fund and the New Mexico Association on Indian Affairs to create a juried exhibit of traditional Indian arts. It was to be held in conjunction with the long-established annual Fiesta celebration.

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1922 Indian Market Display with Award Trophies. Palace of the Governors Armory Building. Photo: Palace of the Governors Photo Archives.

The first exhibit opened on September 4,1922, under the title of The Southwest Indian Fair and Industrial Arts and Crafts Exhibition and was more colloquially known as The Indian Fair.

While the Fiesta celebrations took over the Plaza, the entire Indian Fair exhibit was displayed in the National Guard Armory Building, behind the Palace of the Governors. Admission fees were charged to the visiting public.

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1922 Picuris Pueblo Pottery Exhibit. Palace of the Governors Armory Building. Photo: Palace of the Governors Photo Archives.

Events included the display of Native American dancing, singing, Native dress, and demonstrations on jewelry, pottery making, and bow and arrow contests held on the museum patio.

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Indian Fair 1922. Patio of the Palace of the Governors. Kenneth Chapman center with Santiago Naranjo. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives.

A handful of museum curators, including Chapman, judged the various categories, which were named for each of the participating pueblos. Each category was awarded a first prize of $5 and a second prize of $3. There was also a $15 prize and a trophy awarded for “Best Tribal Display”. The Museum staff acted as intermediaries in selling the art to the public. The artists received their money after the Fair was over.

For five years the Indian Fair remained in the Armory and the Palace of the Governors courtyard patio during Fiestas.

1925 Indian Fair in the Palace of the Governors Armory Building. Photo: Palace of the Governors Archives.

In 1927, the Museum of New Mexico ended their involvement with both the Fiesta and Indian Fair events. Kenneth Chapman founded an independent committee to continue supporting the advancement of traditional Native arts and the Fair. The Southwest Indian Fair Committee included Hewett and dedicated Native heritage supporters Amelia and Martha White, Santa Claran day-school teacher Lucy Bacon, Dorothy Stewart, Margaretta Dietrich and others.

From 1927 to 1931, the Fairs continued to be held in the Armory building and on the patio of the Palace of the Governors during Fiestas. The Committee also provided transport from the pueblos, camping equipment, and food for the Fair participants totaling approximately $400 a year. These costs were covered by admission fees, along with a small percentage added to the sales price of the exhibit items.

Committee members would agent the sales of all items and Native participants continued to wait until the Fair was over in order to receive their payment. The average price for a pot was $3. The sale of the now legendary Maria Martinez’ pots would bring as much as $11. At a time when a can of milk cost 10 cents, coffee was 35 cents a pound, and a pair of men’s britches could be bought for $1.75, these earnings were considerable.

Maria and Julian Martinez and Family. Palace of the Governors Photo Archive 1929.

To ensure display of excellent works, Chapman went to pueblos in advance of the Fair and buy those pots and items he felt represented the best of the art form. He would spend in the range of $400-$470 annually from monies donated by the committee members and other supporters. These purchases also served to increase value and encourage the enthusiasm of the artists to continue their works and high quality standards.

After 1931, the Santa Fe Indian Fair stopped. The Committee took the exhibits on the road. From 1932 to 1935, they traveled around the state to Indian schools, pueblos and tribal fairs and held exhibits and competitions that offered prizes. They hoped the exhibits would inspire participation from more artists while displaying what they had judged to be prize-winning examples of traditional art forms.

In 1934, the SWIFC were taken over by the Arts and Crafts Committee of the New Mexico Association on Indian Affairs. By 1935, participation by the Native American artists was waning. In 1936, NMAIA President Margaretta Dietrich proposed bringing the Fair back to Santa Fe and again hold it during Fiestas.

Maria Chabot

Margaretta’s assistant was a young writer named Maria Chabot. From her years living in Mexico, Maria had seen first-hand the success of native Mexican outdoor markets. She proposed the idea of a weekly Saturday outdoors “market,” and the Indian Fair was reborn as the Santa Fe Indian Market. It was to be held for eight consecutive Saturdays under the portal of the Palace of the Governors. The minutes of the Association meeting explain her idea.

“Miss Cabot’s plan was that all Indians be invited to come in each week but that one or two pueblos only would be featured each Saturday and these awarded prizes and provided with transportation.”

The first of the Saturday Indian Markets was held July 11, 1936. Participation was strong. Seventy-five to 100 people arrived from the Pueblos of San Ildefonso and Tesuque. The artists would do their own selling, thus eliminating the third party and the wait for payment, and allowing for direct connection between vendors and buyers. As the weeks continued, the Market was so successful that the artists would return to sell their work and that of their family members. This caused a spread of displays inching their way down the Palace’s neighboring streets.

Although there were many categories of works sold, pottery was one of the most popular. The average weekly sale of pots by such prize-winners as Maria Martinez and Severa Tafoya was $16. Those who were less skilled earned in the range of $4-$6 per week. Public attendance was estimated to be in the range of 8,000 for the entire summer.

Chabot had helped establish the freedom for the artists to set their own prices and the Markets’ success brought financial independence to many of them. In an interview by the Santa Fe New Mexican in 1996, Chabot recalled that at the end of the summer of 1936, Maria Martinez told her that “eight girls got water in their house.”

Even after the Markets were over, vendors continued to come to Santa Fe to sit under the portal of the Palace of the Governors. To this day, it is a highly anticipated experience for many visitors to Santa Fe to visit Native vendors and artists under the Palace’s portal.

Palace of the Governors Portal. Indian Market 1938. Photo: Harold Humes. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives

The Saturday markets weren’t held in 1937, but they were resumed in 1938 and 1939. Prize ribbons were awarded for the first time in 1938 and have continued ever since.

From 1940 through 1962, the Indian Market was again held during the one Fiesta weekend. All Native American artists were invited, but the spread of displays around the plaza and on shop fronts was a cause for concern and upset among shop owners and the artists themselves. There were no assigned spaces, and the battle for the best spots had some vendors sleeping under the portal to ensure their space.

Vendors sleeping under the Palace of the Governors Portal. circa 1940-50. Palace of the Governors Photo Archive.

Through the 1940s and 50s, prizes continued to be awarded, but the number of prizes and the monetary awards wavered.

1953 Vendors along Washington Ave. Photo Nat N. Dodge. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives.

By 1959, the future of the NMAIA and its organization of the Market was in doubt. Fortunately, Al Packard, whose legacy Packards on the Plaza is now in the process of closing after a successful 75 years in business, took on the cause. Packard and other prominent figures supported the NMAIA in bringing organization to the Market and reviving the juried exhibits and prizes. Efforts became entirely focused around the extensive organization of Indian Market.

The 1960s brought a renewed national interest in Native American culture, which helped the cause considerably. In 1962, the Market was held the weekend preceding Fiestas, establishing its independence from any other event. Gradually, throughout the Sixties, more and more rows of booths were installed for vendors so that in addition to the 100 artists under the portal, there was now booth space for an additional seventy-five.

By 1980, 330 booths were provided. In 2002, 625 booths enabled the participation of as many as a thousand artists. Those numbers seem to be holding steady. As the 92nd Annual Indian Market draws to a close in 2013, as many as 220 tribes from the U.S and Canada participated, over 600 booths lined the Plaza and surrounding streets, as many as 68 judges determined winners in over 3,600 category classifications and awarded over $110,000 in prizes. More than a thousand artists attended. The white roofs of vendor booths line the streets surrounding the plaza and stretch for many blocks.

Artist booths line the Plaza stretching all the way to the Courthouse.

Now, the Market is usually held during the third weekend of August. Vendors make their way to Santa Fe from all directions, some of them bringing delicious Native foods to sell to an eager public.

As in the past, the participating artists work hard all year to create works that will win prizes and hopefully earn them good income through sales.

Cavan Gonzales, Maria Martinez’ great-grandson, has been working on his collection of pots since late last year. He has won many awards over the years, and he relies on the sale of his pots for much of his family’s annual income.

Maria Martinez’ Great-grandson Cavan Gonzales. San Ildefonso

The judging process upholds its original rigorous standards of evaluation of excellence in cultural aesthetics, quality and creativity in all of the category classifications.

Robin Waynee Saginaw Chippewa Tribe of Michigan. Contemporary Pendant.

Robin Waynee is a very popular contemporary jeweler. She is originally of the Saginaw Chippewa tribe of Michigan. She now lives in Santa Fe and her work can also be found at The Golden Eye just off the Plaza.

In the Pueblo Carvings Classification, Bart Gasper of Zuni Pueblo won 1st place with this amazing Kachina.

Bart Gasper Sr. – Zuni Kachina 1st Place – Pueblo Carvings Classification

The week preceding the Market includes festivities, fund-raisers, shows and exhibits in galleries and museums, restaurants and cinemas throughout Santa Fe, culminating with the Market on Saturday and Sunday.

On Sunday morning an amazing display of traditional and contemporary cultural dress adorns the stage for the Native American Clothing Contest. Judges award prizes for the best in numerous categories.

Within Santa Fe’s historic town center, hundreds of Native cultures converge – creating a proud and spectacular display of color and beauty. There is a tremendous amount of history, tradition and religious ceremonial information to be gleaned from each costume. Almost every detail has a purpose and meaning that is intricately woven through complex Native lineages.

Santo Domingo Ceremonial Costume – Pueblo Sunrise

Santo Domingo Ceremonial Costume – Pueblo Sunrise

Audrey Brokeshoulder. Plains Indian Dress.

In the above image, Audrey Brokeshoulder’s dress won first place in the category of “Southern Plains Girls Dress” in the age group 11 to 17. I was fortunate enough to be able to ask Audrey’s father Nick about it. Nick designed her skirt and shawl, basing the designs on patterns used by the Oklahoma woodland tribes Sauk and Fox. Every design of the beadwork and stitching has meaning relating to the history of the tribal cultures. Nick says, “you can’t just put on these clothes…they have to belong to your tribe through lineage, or [you need] to be adopted into these groups by families willing to allow you the rights to wear them…” Audrey is an enrolled member of the Hopi tribe, and her heritage includes Navajo (Dineh) and Shawnee.

Navajo Traditional Costume. Category – Women 18 years and older

As in all of the works of art at the Indian Market, the costumes are a fantastic display of color, meticulous beadwork, feathers, shells, bells, and beauty, all representative of important traditions in each of the Native cultures from around the U.S and Canada.

Laura Marks: Yakama Traditional. Category: All Tribes – Girls ages 6 – 10.

Apache Warrior

There are commercial buyers, tourists, private collectors and enthusiasts who have journeyed to Santa Fe for over 50 years to collect and connect with the Native artists and their culture. Santa Fe’s Indian Market now attracts over 150,000 visitors from around the world. The dedication of the non-profit Southwestern Association for Indian Arts has paid off as they continue to work tirelessly to develop educational and training programs in support of Native American art and culture. They also hold a smaller, indoor Winter Indian Market each year around November 30 through December 1st.

Indian Market is a spectacular event and something everyone should experience. If you’re thinking of visiting, remember to book your accommodations far in advance. There is nothing like it anywhere else, and it surely is well worth planning the trip!

For more information on Indian Market and SWAIA go to: http://swaia.org/

For help planning your visit to Santa Fe, go to: http://santafeselection.com/

Sources:

1. From Indian Fair to Indian Market by Bruce Bernstein. El Palacio Magazine vol.98. No3

2. SWAIA: http://swaia.org/About_SWAIA/History/index.html Adapted from “History of the Santa Fe Indian Market” by Bruce Bernstein

A Glimpse into Santa Fe’s Annual Spanish Market

Posted on July 27, 2013 by Maria Johnson

2015 celebrates the 64th Annual Traditional Spanish Market, the oldest juried Spanish Market in the United States. The celebration includes festivals, music and cultural events centered around Santa Fe’s historic Plaza. Festivities culminate with the largest display of art from Hispanic artisans of New Mexico and Southern Colorado.

The Santa Fe Plaza and surrounding streets are lined with the white tent stalls and filled with excellent works of traditional art including retablos, jewelry, furniture, carvings, weavings and pottery, to mention a few. Regional foods, live music, dancing, and art demonstrations are all part of the celebration of this vibrant heritage.

The market began in 1926 when the Spanish Colonial Arts Society sponsored the event. In the 1930s it lost sponsorship, but persevered as a combined event held with the Indian Market. In 1965 the SCAS took up sponsorship again, but it wasn’t until 1972 that it reestablished independence and claimed the last weekend of July for its annual celebration.

Each July, as many as 80,000 people, including locals, visitors, collectors and enthusiasts flock to Santa Fe to experience this event. Hundreds of artists show their work and this is now known world-wide as the largest juried Spanish Market in the United States.

Though it may sound as if the streets are cramped with people, they’re not. The Plaza accommodates everyone with ease over the course of the weekend. Live performers take over the bandstand and rows of seats are available for spectators to sit in the shade.

It is an enjoyable, relaxed summer atmosphere where you can stroll at an easy pace, and take in the sights, sounds and flavors of this tradition.

The green Plaza lawns are a welcome cool spot for people to sit and for kids to play.

1st Prize Retablos Revival Artist – Catherine Robles-Shaw

Each year, the SCAS appoints a private panel of judges to award artists for their skills and distinctive works. The awards are funded by the Society and private contributors.

Grand Prize Winner – Ramon Jose Lopez

In 2002, SCAS founded the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, which houses a collection of more than 3,700 pieces of historical and contemporary works. It is the only museum of its kind in the country dedicated to exhibiting, interpreting and preserving the Spanish Colonial Arts. The Museum often purchases prize-winning pieces for their collections.

Juan Lopez Filagree Jewelry

Juan Lopez’ filagree silver jewelry is inspired by, “Anything I see,” he says with a beaming smile, “the clouds, flowers, people. It can come from anywhere.”

Juan and friend

The Phoenicians first invented filagree work in 1500 B.C. The Greeks, Italians and French have all put their own stamp on the work. For over 400 years, the Spanish have run with it beautifully, and Juan is happily continuing the tradition in his unique way.

Whether you’re interested in collecting or simply looking to enjoy a relaxed, festive atmosphere, the Traditional Spanish Market is a fun experience for everyone. If you’re traveling from out of state, it is a good idea to book your accommodations early in the year and arrive early to enjoy the Plaza’s festivities leading up to the weekend.

For more information on the Spanish Colonial Arts Society and Museum go to: http://santafeselection.com/museums/museum-of-spanish-colonial-art

I invite you to follow me on Facebook. Please sign up to receive my monthly articles by going to the home page and entering your email in the “subscribe” field in the right margin. Thank you! ~ Maria

The Deep Roots of New Mexico Wine Country

Posted on July 15, 2013 by Maria Johnson

New Mexico was the first wine country in the United States, dating back to the early 1600s. The first vines were planted in Senecu, a Piro Indian Pueblo in the southern part of the state, by Fray García de Zúñiga, a Franciscan, and a Capuchín monk named Antonio de Arteaga. Sacramental wines were vital to the missionaries, and the vines they brought from Europe, known as “mission grape” or Vitis Vinifera, are still grown here today. By the mid-1800s, the fertile Rio Grande Valley, from Bernalillo to Socorro and Las Cruces to El Paso, had over 3100 acres of vineyards and had become the nation’s largest wine producer, to the tune of almost a million gallons annually.

Pueblo revolts, harsh winters and frequent Rio Grande floods of the early 1900s proved too much for the vines, and by 1910, production had receded to barely 16,000 gallons a year. From 1919 to 1933, prohibition didn’t help matters. But since 1978, New Mexico has seen a rebirth of its wine country. Dedicated viticulturists and vintners have nursed the annual wine production back up to as much as 700,000 gallons and as many as forty-two wineries around the state.

One such winery and vineyard, Casa Abril, belongs to the family of Raymond and Sheila Vigil and is tucked away in a little-frequented area of northern New Mexico called Budaghers, located exactly thirty minutes from Santa Fe and Albuquerque, along the Rio Grande River Valley.

Sheila is a direct descendant of the first Romeros to arrive here in New Spain from the motherland, with Don Juan de Oñate in 1598. Raymond’s ancestors were from the northern Spanish village of Vigil, and they arrived here in 1605.

During the early 1900s, Raymond’s grandfather, Pablo Leyva, was a gold miner working in the small town of Golden. As the gold veins began to diminish, he moved to Madrid, New Mexico and worked as a brakeman in the coal mines. During this time, Pablo heard about a U.S government land grant advertising for settlers. Almost two thousand acres was divided into 350 acre parcels that stretched along the old Camino Real and was FREE to anyone willing to risk the perils of homesteading in those days. Only five families signed up. Among them was a Lebanese family named Budagher and, of course, Pablo and his wife Dolores. In Casa Abril’s tasting room Raymond proudly displays the land grant signed by President Roosevelt in 1938.

A short distance from the Interstate 25 exit 257 lies the Vigil’s quiet hamlet of homes, a family chapel and vineyards. In 2001, the first hundred vines planted at Casa Abril were Vinifera Tempranillo cuttings from Spain. It takes four years before grapes can be turned into good wine. Raymond says with a broad smile, “We’ve drunk many mistakes.”

In 2005, Raymond retired from his thirty-five years of computer tech positions in the corporate world and turned his efforts full-time to the development of the vineyards and perfecting the wines. They entered four wines in the New Mexico State Wine Competition held at the N.M State Fair under the categories of Amateur and Home-Made Wines, and won four bronze medals! Every year since, they’ve continued to win bronze, silver and gold medals. In 2009, they finalized the federal, state and county requirements to become a Federal Bonded Vineyard and Winery. In 2010, they held their Grand Opening.

After years of hard labor, ever since those first one hundred vines were planted, they have done an annual planting to expand the vineyards. Each season, buckets of their own vine cuttings sit ready to plant in the stark, pink, fertile earth. Now, their vineyards comprise 4000 vines, the largest in northern New Mexico, and in addition to the Tempranillo they produce Malbecs, Zinfandel, Tempranillo Rosè, Muscat Canelli, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Sangiovese.

The family continues to work on perfecting their wines and they continue to win awards. They produce approximately 12,000 bottles annually, and sell out every year to avid buyers around the country.

Years of Award Winners

Casa Abril was named for the significant presence of the month of April in their family’s history. To hear Raymond tell it, almost every reason for celebration in the family happened in April, from Raymond and Sheila’s birthdays, to those of his grandchildren. Raymond and Sheila met in high school and were married in April. In 2010 the Winery’s Grand Opening was held on April 25th – and the list continues.

There’s no doubt this is a family-run business from start to finish. Each of the children – son Ray and daughters Jamie, Kamie and Jody – has a role in bringing the fine wines to production, from planting the vines to marketing the final product. Daughter Jamie is the vintner in the family. She knows when the grapes are ready to harvest, and monitors the sensitive balance required to ensure the right amount of sweetness and ripeness for the best results. She also shunts the giant vats, and preps and manages the bottling, among other duties. As Raymond says, “She’s the boss!”

Vintner Jamie

“We tried using wooden barrels one year,” Raymond said, “No matter what we did to prevent it, they shrank in the desert dryness and leaked – a lot!” But don’t think they haven’t developed an all-natural means to add that special hint of oak to the bouquets.

The place is timeless and serene as it houses a thriving hive of modern wine industry. The warm, friendly atmosphere is that of an old friend, one who’s known you all your life and your conversation picks up just where it left off, and the wine scintillates your senses.

Stunning views of the Jemez Mountain Range make the winery’s shaded portal a great spot to relax and watch a dramatic performance of the rapidly changing New Mexico sky.

Jemez Mountains from Casa Abril’s Portal

And you can’t help but smile when Raymond steps behind the bar and begins his presentation of what he calls “a roller coaster ride of flavors.” From the Tempranillo to the Sangiovese, and everything in between, add a touch of Marcona almonds and chocolate covered raisins and you’re on your way from New Spain to Old Spain to Argentina and back again. My roller coaster partner Dave, expressed it best when he said, “It’s more than good wine – it’s an event in my mouth!”

As Raymond intertwines the tales of wine and history, you can sense his love and passion deeply rooted to his family, the land and the vines themselves.

I think some of those roots grabbed me by the ankle. They tug at me whenever I rush past Exit 257, dashing from one appointment to the next with time’s broad hand at my back. I look to the little family chapel poking just above the line of the juniper and piñon-dotted hills, and I know the family is hard at work and I know I’ll be back to visit before long.

Casa Abril is open ten months of the year, and everyone is welcome to “come taste the wine” – as the song goes – every Thursday through Sunday from noon till 5 p.m. with the exception of mid-December through January when it’s just too darn chilly!) For more information call Raymond at (505) 771-0208.

If you prefer to be sensible and not drive, Cindy Capelli of New Mexico Wine & Scenic Tours is always available to pick you up and drive you to as many of the best wineries as you wish to visit, including Black Mesa Winery & Vineyard, Estrella Del Norte Vineyard & Winery, Don Quixote Distillery & Winery and many others.

Daughter Jody of Casa Abril at SF Wine Festival 2013. Photo by Cindy Capelli, NM Wine & Scenic Tours.

New Mexico celebrates its rich wine culture throughout the spring, summer and fall with numerous festivals. The Santa Fe Wine Festival is held at the beautiful living history ranch, El Rancho de Las Golondrinas for a weekend early in July.

Black Mesa Winery at SF Wine Festival 2013. Photo: Cindy Capelli of NM Wine & Scenic Tours.

The Albuquerque Annual Wine Fest is usually held Memorial Day Weekend. And the largest is the New Mexico Wine Festival held in Bernalillo every Labor Day Weekend.

Though not exclusive to local wineries, everyone has likely heard of The Santa Fe Wine and Chile Festival, an annual culinary event. For five days every September at the Santa Fe Opera grounds, as many as a hundred wineries from around the United States arrive to offer their best tastings. Enthusiasts can pair up their favorites with delicious food samplings from up to seventy-five of Santa Fe’s best restaurants. Events include cooking demonstrations, guest chef luncheons, wine-pairing seminars, the Gruet Golf Classic and more. Tickets go on sale in early July, and they sell fast, so if you haven’t got yours yet, now’s the time!

For more information on northern New Mexico Wineries and Vineyards including Casa Abril Winery & Vineyards please go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/wine-country/wine-country.

Where’s Your Inner Cowgirl?

Posted on June 23, 2013 by Maria Johnson

I wasn’t aware I had an inner cowgirl until I had the opportunity to meet Joy Silha and her delightfully smart, sensitive horses ( and one adorable mule named Jimmy). Joy offers fun equine experience workshops that are as refreshing as they are original, and set at her beautiful ranch in the gently rolling hills of Arroyo Hondo, just five miles from downtown Santa Fe. Joy introduced me to her unique classes that are designed to awaken and strengthen the independent, fun-loving, free-spirited aspects of ourselves that may have slipped into the back seat of our busy, distracted lifestyles.

Joy and Poncho

The nature of these experiences is quite personal and gleans a lot of self-discovery and awareness, which makes them a little difficult to relate, but I am happy to share some of my day in the hopes that you’ll understand how fun and exhilarating they can be and grab the opportunity to discover your own inner cowgirl(boy).

Pack Horses

Over the course of history, horses have often been thought of as little more than a means of load-bearing transport. But their ability to live among humans offers us so much valuable information that, until recently, we’ve tended to ignore.

A horseman named Ray Hunt was instrumental in advocating on behalf of the horse as being worthy of respect, trust and reverence. He studied under Tom Dorrance, a rancher from Oregon who founded “natural horsemanship,” a gentle means to working with horses through feel and observation. During the late 1960s and 70s, Ray publicized the teachings by holding clinics around the country. Ray is famous for starting each clinic with the statement, “I’m here for the horse, to help him get a better deal.” He also said that if the horse wasn’t doing what you wanted, “you obviously did something wrong, and that’s just too bad. The horse, on the other hand, is never, ever wrong.”

Katie

As a prey animal, a horse’s natural condition is one of survival. They are alert to almost 360 degrees of their environment, and their entire body is sensitive to the slightest change in it, which offers instant biofeedback that we can learn a lot from…if we’re willing to listen with more than our ears.

All Joy’s classes involve “ground work,” meaning that nobody rides the horses. Everything is done on foot. Joy guides guests through a process of introduction so each person can connect with and “join up” with one of her horses for an hour or two of fascinating class time. She welcomes groups or individuals, and each experience is custom designed to suit the participant(s) and guaranteed to be unique.

I was five-years-old when I took my first ride at a local stables near our home in northwest England. She was a Shetland pony called Twopence (pronounced Tuppence) and barely five feet tall at the top of her ears. I was lifted atop an English saddle, and despite the protection of my sister’s oversized, hand-me-down equestrian garb of tall English helmet, jodhpurs, crop and riding boots, I was terrified. I was convinced that Twopence’s trot was a full-pelt gallop and that I was destined to be hurled into the sand dunes. Since then I’ve had a lot more experience and become comfortable around horses of all sizes, particularly the graceful giants. But Joy’s classes aren’t exclusive to those with a horsey past – anyone can enjoy and benefit from these workshops. From first-time horse encounters to those with an in-depth wealth of experience, her classes are fun for everyone. And regardless of my past experience, every new horse is a different personality deserving of respect and careful consideration in order to “join up” with them; after a brief introduction to her stables and work, Joy showed me how. She welcomed me into the corral with the horses and told me to walk around and see what happened.

From back left: Sierra, Katie, Poncho the palomino, and Jimmy the Mule.

I was fine with this idea and meandered into the corral with little sense of direction. Nothing happened. I stood about 20 feet from the horses, and although one came by and sniffed at me briefly, she didn’t find me interesting enough to stick around. After a few minutes, they all had their backs to me, like barflies huddled around the water trough. A crow gave a mocking squawk from a nearby juniper. Jimmy the mule decided he wanted inside the stable again, so he opened the heavy sliding door with considerable ease and moved into the shade. I felt a bit at a loss.

Barflies

I was overcome with an urge to sit down, right there on the dusty ground. I asked Joy if it would be alright, she said it would be okay, but that we’d have to be very careful. I plonked down in the dry sand and instantly Sierra, the gray mare, lifted her head from the trough and started walking toward me.

Curioser and curioser

She approached gingerly and stretched her long neck from a safe distance to sniff at this unusual bump in the corral. I leaned toward her to greet her snorting nostrils with snorts of my own, and there we were for a couple of minutes, just snorting at each other.

I felt chosen. In my mind we had become fast friends.

After this interlude, Sierra and I were definitely “joined up” and this event determined us as partners-to-be for the next exercise.

In a separate corral, Joy demonstrated her deft ability to communicate with a different horse, Katie. Humans are so reliant upon verbal and written means of communication, we forget and are often unaware of just how obvious our body language is. Horses read us, and the many layers of our psyche, loud and clear and it is amazing to see the instantaneous response to the subtlest of our moves. Joy worked her magic in the corral, at first allowing Katie to have a free, wild run, which was beautiful to watch.

Then Joy proceeded to move in ways that had instant effects upon Katie’s movements and behavior. It was like a dance: as Joy moved, Katie would stop, come toward her, set off in a trot, canter circles around her, all without words or the connection of rope and halter.

Watching this dance in no way portrays the incredible feelings I experienced when it came time for me and Sierra to do our ground-work. Suddenly, I was in the middle of a corral with a frisky loose horse who decided she wanted to have a wild run to stretch her legs and a roll to scratch her back before listening to me.

Sierra Roll

It is hard to explain in words what an eye-opening, revitalizing experience I had in that circle of sand.

Joined up and listening

As I became aware of my own posture, all my thoughts had to slam in to the present moment. The minute I was present and holding my own ground, Sierra started listening to my non-verbal direction.

After a little practice, I was able to entice her to canter, stop, follow, come toward me, all through commands she sensed through my body language. It was FANTASTIC!! I felt like a real horse whisperer.

At one point, I was walking, with Sierra following along, and we were connected. I looked over to the hills and the crisp blue sky, and for an instant, my mind drifted to thoughts of how great it would be if I could do this every day, and that was it…Sierra lost interest in me. I had dropped our connection. She took off in a different direction. It was that fast!

What an incredible practice of being present in the moment. Horses are in the moment at all times, and when we’re in the moment, and secure in our actions, they follow. Joy taught me that they need a leader. When I was being a leader, Sierra joined up with me, but when my mind drifted, Sierra instantly became my “monkey mind” police. I pulled my attention back to the moment, made a clear decision to move in a different direction, do my own thing, and she came back to me.

This whole experience made me feel invigorated, strong, and vibrantly clear-headed. By being so in the moment with Sierra, I felt as if I’d taken a true vacation from my usual daily stress mode of worries and nagging concerns, and entered authentic reality, which brought with it a strong sense of appreciation for the simplest of things and in simply being alive.

My connection with Sierra opened the doors of awareness to my own sense of leadership, my confidence (and fluctuating lack thereof). Her lessons stay with me many weeks later. When I’m feeling low, I remember my equine partner and think, “Sierra wouldn’t follow me right now.” And I’m brought back to the moment and I find my center and strength. She was a brilliant teacher, and taskmaster. There’s nothing like it! Everyone should experience this connection and discover the strengths and blind spots that lie hidden just beneath the surface and which can guide you to awaken your fun-loving, inner cowgirl, or cowboy.

Everyone and every horse, and every class is different, so my experience doesn’t suggest that anyone else’s would be the same. Joy is astute at finding the most effective way to guide you, or your group through a fun and valuable equine experience. Joy’s credentials include her studies with Ray Hunt, who, besides being an original proponent of natural horsemanship, was also a mentor to the well-known Buck Brannaman. Buck and Ray were the primary inspirations for Nicholas Evans’ book, The Horse Whisperer.

Joy and Poncho

Along with Joy’s many credentials and experience within the natural horsemanship school of thought and practice, she is a life-coach certified by Martha Beck (Oprah Winfrey’s coach). Her extensive experience with horses and teaching seamlessly integrates into the workshop, so you feel as if you’ve spent a couple of hours with a friend and her horses. I’m definitely going back again.

It was Roy Rogers’ wife, Dale Evans, who said, “Cowgirl is an attitude really. A pioneer spirit, a special brand of American courage. The cowgirl faces life head on, lives by her own lights and makes no excuses. Cowgirls take stands. They speak up. They defend the things they hold dear.” So, to answer your question, What is your inner cowgirl? Joy says, “It is a condition of the heart! And there are no better guides to reflect your heart than horses.”

Joy holds classes by appointment throughout the year. The best time to do a class is during calm weather. The winter months can be a bit cold, so spring (when it isn’t too windy) through the summer and fall are often ideal.

For more information and to book your Equine Experience, contact Joy Silha at (505) 466-2233 or go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/equine-experience-awaken-your-inner-cowgirl.

Sierra The Wise

The Cutting Edge in Santa Fe

Posted on June 9, 2013 by Maria Johnson

For more than thirty-six years, Alan Van Pelt’s specialty cutlery shop has literally been the source for the best cutting edge in Santa Fe. Tucked alongside the famous La Fonda Hotel, at the southeast corner of the historic Plaza, Cutlery of Santa Fe, with its creaking wooden floor and large glass displays, houses some of the rarest, extraordinary custom-crafted knives and utensils from around the world – most not easily found in bigger cities. Implements of myriad sizes, uses, and styles for every need, at prices for every budget, line this tiny store. But more than just a cutting edge, these tools offer insight into a wealth of history and artistry that I never expected to discover.

Some of the most elegant works include woolly mammoth tooth, obsidian, sapphires, rubies, and turquoise – just a few of the unique elements that adorn the steel that has its own beautiful design and interesting history. Damascus steel originated with sword-makers in Southern Asia and the Middle East, circa 300-400 B.C. The forging process included layering the steel as many as three hundred times, and a complex thermal cycling technique that allowed the organic layered patterns to appear in the blades.

Unlike other knife blades, Damascus steel is a unique composite of two or more alloys that are blended through the process of folding, heating and forging to render the ultimate in strength and sharpness. It is the stuff of legends, with its fabled ability to cut through a falling hair, or to slice through the barrel of a rifle. There’s no doubt this ancient technology makes for a dangerously sharp, durable edge and beautiful finished product.

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Damascus steel blades with water pattern

The crafting of Damascus steel died out in the 17th century, perhaps due to the breakdown of trade routes from India’s alloy sources, or the secrecy of the process failing to be passed on through generations. But since the 1970s, modern artisans, with new technologies have revived Damascus steel.

This pocket knife, with a handle carved from three-thousand-year-old oak and a Rain Drop pattern Damascus steel blade, is at once a collector’s item and a highly efficient tool.

Raindrop Pattern Damascus Steel Pocket Knife

Rain drop pattern Damascus steel blade with 1000-year-old oak handle

As any knife enthusiast will tell you, the blade is just part of the importance of finding the right implement. The Japanese Santoku kitchen knife is a very popular item with Cutlery of Santa Fe’s foodie customers. Those with a culinary bent find the fine balance of a Santoku handle and blade makes for the most efficient slicing, dicing and mincing in food prep.

Santoku Kitchen Knife

Alan has traveled extensively in search of specialty knives. In the small village of Maniago in northern Italy’s foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, he found these miniature, hand-crafted pen knives that attach to your key chain. The various handle styles include rosewood, stag horn, and mother of pearl.

Since childhood, Alan has appreciated knives, their uses and art. “I’ve always liked pocket knives.” He says, “I’ve given them as presents since I was a cub scout.” It is clear he loves his trade. His collection extends beyond knives to include a variety of other handy implements, from embroidery scissors to corkscrews, carving sets and letter openers inlaid with turquoise, mother of pearl, lapis, coral, jet, and other rare and unique materials.

Letter Openers with inlaid handles

I particularly love this mesquite cheese board and spreaders infused with turquoise. At only $81 for the board and $15 for each spreader, what a great “prezzie” this would make for any household.

Mesquite Cheese Board with Turquoise inlay.

Mesquite Cheese Board and Spreaders with Turquoise inlay. Gorgeous!!

Every day Alan welcomes visitors and many a knife enthusiast who loves to discuss the craft and utilitarian value of the tools. He would be the first to tell you to always handle knives responsibly, as he deftly demonstrates the flick-of-the-wrist action with a specialty knife.

Stars of his collection are the custom-crafted knives, corkscrews, pocket knives, letter openers and more, made by Santa Fe Stoneworks exclusively for Cutlery of Santa Fe. Alan had the idea to inlay these steak knives with rare Siberian woolly mammoth tusk.

Woolly Mammoth Tusk Steak Knives. Cutlery of Santa Fe and Santa Fe Stoneworks.

The six-to-ten thousand-year-old fossil with damascus steel blades and hammer detail make these sets extremely unique. Though these are at the high end of the price range at $1150 per set, they make the ideal gift for the person who has everything!

For as long as humankind has been on the planet, cutting implements have been an essential piece of equipment. Alan’s collection of Daniel Bly hand-carved knives is reminiscent of man’s first cutting edge. Though they appear primitive, they are extremely sharp and highly efficient.

The handles are of found deer antler and the blades are hand-chipped obsidian, which is beautifully varied in its color and translucency. The process of hand-chipping the blades is called “knapping”.

Excalibur!

Every one of these knives is unique and highly collectible. Alan just counted his 1001st Bly knife he has sold, since he first opened in 1976.

Cutlery of Santa Fe has many loyal customers located all over the U.S who call for new additions to their collections or utensil needs. This dining set with inlaid turquoise is another favorite…

…And the inlaid steak knife sets made locally by Santa Fe Stoneworks.

I must admit that beyond the utilitarian aspect, I had never spent enough time around knives to appreciate their craftsmanship and artistry. By the end of my visit I was fascinated by it all. Before I left, I had to take a look at this masterpiece modeled after the original Bowie knife….

Damascus steel Bowie Knife with Turquoise and Buffalo Nickel

I couldn’t figure out an angle that would encompass this huge piece and all its attributes in a single photograph. Its stag antler handle is inlaid with a medallion of turquoise and a silver Buffalo Head nickel…

Its brass “bolster” attaches to 416 layers of Damascus Steel in a beautiful, organic pattern, with an ornately fluted, serrated top edge. This piece goes for around $900…Jim Bowie would’ve been proud!

I really enjoyed my time spent with Al at Cutlery of Santa Fe – it opened a world I hadn’t known about and expanded my appreciation for the cutting edges I’ve taken for granted in my own kitchen. Now I’ve certainly found a new resource for great gift ideas. Father’s Day is just around the corner, and I doubt there’s a man out there, dad or not, who wouldn’t appreciate a slice of steel from Cutlery of Santa Fe.

For more information on Cutlery of Santa Fe, please call Alan Van Pelt at (505) 982 3262 or go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/unique-shops/cutlery-of-santa-fe

It’s Time To Hit The High Road To Taos Again

Posted on May 25, 2013 by Maria Johnson

It’s late May and the weather is getting steadily warmer, trees are leafing their spring green, and it’s time to hit the High Road to Taos, stay overnight, take the Low road (Route 68) on the way back to Santa Fe, and discover a few great historical and cultural treasures along the way. Many areas of New Mexico offer authentic experiences for us avid time travelers who wish to drop the shackles of high-speed everything and remember a simpler time and lifestyle. The Scenic High Road is one of the best!

Only a thirty minute easy drive from Santa Fe (along the 285, to the scenic 503, and left on route 98), Chimayo, with its beautiful Santuario, sits quietly amid the early sprouting elms and cottonwoods, as it has since 1816.

Making a left at Junction 76, I take a short half-mile detour to visit John Abrums’ Chimayo Trading & Mercantile and his extensive collection of authentic Native American arts. His patio is inviting on this warm day with its fountain and chile ristras.

For over twenty-five years, John has collected some of the finest examples of historic and contemporary fine art, pottery, jewelry, baskets and weavings by premier Native American artists from all over the Southwest. His pottery collection alone includes works from the Pueblos of Santa Clara, San Ildefonso, Ohkay Owningeh, Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz.

Back on The High Road and heading north, there’s Centinela Traditional Arts and Oviedo Carvings and Bronze, just two of the seventy or more artists and artisans that inhabit The High Road. In 1998, the artist communities of the historic land grant villages of Chimayó, Córdova, Truchas, Ojo Sarco, Las Trampas, Chamisal, Peñasco, and Vadito got together to form The High Road Artisans Group. Their mission is to preserve and sustain the longstanding, self-sufficient lifestyle and livelihood of the villages en route to Taos. They are doing a great job of keeping the area simple and pristine and seemingly unfettered by modernity.

The whole area captures the essence of rural New Mexico from a time long past, with views reminiscent of Swiss Alpine meadows. The Truchas Peaks are some of the highest in the New Mexico Rockies at 13,101 feet. Precambrian quartzite forms their core.

At an elevation of 8,000 feet, the tiny village of Truchas (Spanish for trout) is an active artist community with many homes and galleries welcoming visitors to drop in and see beautiful original artworks. Trish Booth’s Ghost Pony is one of the first galleries on the left as you enter the village.

As I stroll through town, I’m struck by the peace and quiet. There’s nothing to interfere with the sound of the wind rippling through the flags at the Montez Gallery…

…and the racing acequia that draws from the Truchas River and rushes to irrigate those “Milagro Beanfields” and other farm crops the area is known for.

There are many galleries open year-round, including Hand Artes, Cardona Hines, Cortina, and others whose welcome signs you see as you cruise along the main road. But as the summer approaches, like colorful blossoms, more open up. And you must remember the last two weekends in September when the autumn colors are highlighted by the Annual High Road Art Tour.

Back on 76 and continuing toward Taos, there’s the artists’ co-op, The High Road Marketplace. It is open every day, year-round, and offers a varied selection of arts and crafts from along the High Road.

I could spend hours browsing the many unique treasures. I love this wooden serving bowl with turquoise inlay.

I’m not a smoker, but I couldn’t help falling for the artistry of these pipes made of wood and elk horn.

Before heading out of Truchas, I stop in at a relatively new gallery just past the Market Place. Joan Zalenski’s OffCenter Contemporary Fine Art and Photography welcomes visitors everyday from 10a.m. – 6p.m. and by appointment when you call ahead (505) 689-1107. Joan’s work is beautiful and she’ll even serve up a cappuccino or espresso as you enjoy your surroundings.

Photo: Joan Zalenski

I move on toward Taos, knowing there are more treasures ahead.

The road bends and suddenly there it is – the Las Trampas Church of San José de Gracia. Looking majestic and minding its own business for the past 200 years, and as its sign states, “one of the finest surviving 18th century churches in New Mexico.”

The village of Las Trampas (locally referred to as Trampas) was established in 1751 by twelve families from Santa Fe. At that time much of northern New Mexico was uncharted, and Spanish settlers risked being raided by Native tribes, such as the Comanche, Apache and Ute. Despite the dangers, seventy-four-year-old Juan de Arguello led the families to the land he had been granted by the first Governor of New Mexico, Tomás Vélez Cachupín. The church is now a National Historic Landmark, and the entire village is registered as a National Historic District. The church interior is usually only open on Friday and Saturday – donations are appreciated.

The High Road is lined with tall pines as it continues to wind through the mountain valley.

And the views of Taos’ mountains invite me ever onward to The High Road’s end.

The entire 70-mile drive can be done in as little as an hour and a half, if you’re in a rush. But The High Road isn’t meant to be rushed and when you’re stopping as much as I did, it’s best to allow at least half a day, about 3 – 4 hours.

The Sugar Nymphs Bistro alongside the Peñasco Theatre is a colorful and tasty roadside treat. The bistro is open for lunch, brunch and dinner. But different seasons call for different hours, so it’s best to give them a call first if you want to be sure of a table. (575) 587-0311.

The Peñasco Theatre, hand-built in the early 1940s, now serves as a community hub that offers year-round arts programs, and aerial trapeze acts, music, and one-of-a-kind theatrical pieces through the summer season. They are also home to an aerial trapeze school for adults and children. (575) 587-2726.

Traveling through this creative little town, I keep my eyes open for the many jewels embedded alongside and nearby its main thoroughfare. There’s the Gaucho Blue Fine Art Gallery, which carries a wonderful variety of works from local artists of the area (575) 587-1076. Marx Contemporary, Art For The Heart Gallery, and Walking Woman Gallery are a few other treasures, situated across from the Peñasco Post Office. Art For The Heart is a nonprofit project of the Mountain Ambulance Service, offering a walk-in art space with materials you can use to create your own work, and a lovely array of unique folk, fine and wearable art from as many as twenty five local artists. They also have a beautiful garden where folks can sit awhile and take in the summer’s blooms. They are open Thursday through Sunday 11am – 5pm, or by appointment. This would be a great place for a small group of friends of any age wanting to soak up some Peñasco art and charm to create their own pieces of High Road Art. Call Founder Jean Nichols to find out more (505) 417-0155.

Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is just a few miles away where the river runs through town, and although there’s plenty more to see and write about, it’s time to get settled for the evening.

Arriving in Taos around 5.30 pm, I check in at El Pueblo Lodge. I’m traveling with my quadruped best friend and El Pueblo caters nicely to those of us with dogs. A warm, friendly place with lush, shaded, grassy grounds, and southwest charm throughout. They are located just a mile from the Taos Pueblo and a short walk from the historic Plaza on the main vein through town, Paseo del Pueblo Norte.

A scrumptious dinner at Doc Martin’s Restaurant, located in the Historic Taos Inn, satisfies the gaping hunger I’ve conjured up during the drive. No, I didn’t eat all these meals, but thought it a good idea to show you how diverse and delicious their food is.

There are plenty of unique activities, museums and galleries to experience in Taos. Of course, the Taos Pueblo is a must, and I enjoy Wilder Nightingale Gallery, and Chimayo Trading Del Norte, the Blumenschein, La Hacienda de los Martinez, and others. For activities, there’s the wonderful experience of llama trekking with Wild Earth Llama Adventures, or if you visit in winter they offer snowshoeing tours (llamas don’t trek the snowshoeing tours). Here’s a link to a Taos Day Trip Guide with more detailed information on these and other ideas for your visit.

My return journey to Santa Fe is along the Rio Grande River Valley along route 68, sometimes referred to as the Low Road. It offers more stunning views and special finds. Today, there’s a slight haze in the air turning the mountains and Rio Grande Gorge many shades of blue.

Starting around April 20th and through August is the perfect time to raft the Rio Grande.

Their rigs are ready and a fresh bus load of eager rafters wait to board. Kokopelli Rafting Adventures are my favorites for rafting or kayaking the New Mexico and Colorado rivers. Of course the earlier you go, the higher the water and the bigger the rapids. The Taos Box is the highest part of this particular tour, where the water is more active during the early season. The lower stretch is called Racecourse and is a popular half-day ride. As the water lowers throughout the season, the challenge shifts from high water riding to rock navigation, which is also a lot of fun. And there’s plenty of nice easy cruisin’ to be done in between.

The road follows this stretch of river through the canyon and there are many stopping points to enjoy along the way. After about 27 miles I arrive in Velarde and stop in at Black Mesa Winery to say “Hi” to owner Jerry Burd. The vines are sprouting beautifully in the spring sun.

Black Mesa is well-known for their many delicious wine options, among them Pinot Grigio, Syrah, Montepulciano, and Riesling. A signature wine of theirs is the ever-popular Black Beauty, a red wine with a dark chocolate taste…mmm! Folks love to visit and sit in the shaded wine garden sipping their faves.

Whichever route you choose to get to and from Taos, you won’t be disappointed – there’s so much to discover along the way. And don’t be put off by winter either. Though there may be snow on the mountains, the roads are generally clear and the views are gorgeous!!

REMEMBER: The High Road Arts Tour is EVERY year during the last two weekends in September. The fall colors are peaking, and over 70 artists open their studios to you!

It is great to be out in the clear fall weather, strolling historic villages and looking at beautiful fine art and crafts.

If you need help planning your visit to the northern New Mexico area, please call me at (505) 470-2991 or write an email with questions to: info@santafeselection.com. I offer free suggestions and trip advice based on my 24 years living in this enchanting area.

For more information on The High Road and other authentic experiences in Northern New Mexico please go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/home.php.

Cowgirl BBQ: Celebrating Twenty Years!

Posted on May 15, 2013 by Maria Johnson

On June 1, 1993, The Cowgirl Hall of Fame in Santa Fe opened its doors to a town hungry for barbecue. And for twenty years, the bustling restaurant has served up dependably delicious food, drink and live entertainment and established itself as one of Santa Fe’s most fun and colorful characters.

In the late 1980s, two ladies, Texan Sherry Delamarter and Colorado native Pam McCleary, with the help of a few important investors, opened a restaurant called The Cowgirl Hall of Fame, in the West Village of New York City. The name paid homage to the original Cowgirl Hall of Fame in Hereford, Texas, and the food and decor honored the cultural heritage of the American Cowgirl lifestyle. One of its principal founding members was Barry Secular, a native New Yorker and semi-pro baseball player. In the early 1990s, Barry started a family and moved to Santa Fe. Ready to open a restaurant but being new to the area, he wasn’t sure what type of cuisine the locals would want. He placed an ad in the local Santa Fe Reporter and asked the question. The resounding response was “BARBECUE!” And so it was that 319 Guadalupe Street became Santa Fe’s Cowgirl Hall of Fame.

Cowgirl BBQ Bar

Although the initial idea was based on the New York restaurant’s theme, there were necessary distinctions, which, over time, worked to make the two Cowgirls more distant relatives than sisters. Managing owner Nicholas Ballas describes the New York restaurant as being more of a novelty to the area, and its decor tends to exaggerate the cowgirl theme. “An obvious difference between New York and Santa Fe is you don’t have to go far in Santa Fe to find real ranchers and cowgirls,” he says. “For that reason, one of my jobs was to ‘keep it real’ in honor of our unique, indigenous culture.”

Keeping it real includes consistently serving up scrumptious, honest and affordable food, craft-brewed beers and terrific margaritas, and covering the glittering walls with photographic tributes to great cowgirls and rodeo queens throughout America’s history.

The name is now simply The Cowgirl BBQ and the restaurant has definitely succeeded in being nourishing, fun and welcoming to everyone. Cowgirls and boys, workers of all collar colors, musicians, travelers and locals of every age converge here.

With a full kids’ menu, The Cowgirl caters to the littl’uns too. Moms are happy to eat and chat while their youngsters go safely wild in the outdoor play area. And the big kids can play pool in the game room.

The Cowgirl always “smokes it right” thanks to Chef Patrick Lambert, who keeps pace with an extensive menu covering multiple borders from Texas BBQ, Mexico, and of course New Mexico. New items regularly appear on the menu in honor of regional and international cultural celebrations from Cajun and Creole for Mardi Gras to specialty bratwursts for Oktoberfest. And don’t forget the All-American winter comfort foods like braised lamb shank and meatloaf to get us through the colder months. The meats are organic and hormone-free, and there are plenty of fresh salads and meatless dishes to choose from for those of the veggie ilk.

To celebrate their 20th, they have created a monumental green chile cheeseburger called “The Mother of all Green Chile Cheeseburgers!” Chef’s proprietary blend of 100% hormone-free, organic beef, buffalo and bacon topped with green chile, brie cheese, and tomato is cocooned within a pretzel bun. Yes, it is the mother of all burgers and yes, it is delicious!

Cowgirl BBQ “The Mother” Green Chile Cheeseburger

The Cowgirl is well known for dishing out decadent desserts, including their famous Ice Cream Baked Potato – a monolith of vanilla ice cream dusted with chocolate and topped with whipped cream, all dressed up to resemble a baked potato! And this divine Molten Lava Chocolate Cake deserves honorable mention.

If you’re having a party or event they’ll bring The Cowgirl to you, or dedicate one of their ample-sized dining rooms to your group. Voted Best Full Service Caterer for three consecutive years by locals voting in The Santa Fe Reporter, The Cowgirl team runs a tight ship taking care of your event, both on site and on location.

Staying true to its desire to always keep the customer satisfied, The Cowgirl is one of the few places in Santa Fe that brings live musical entertainment to its customers daily. The afternoon and evening atmosphere is always vibrant. Now, as it gallops toward its twentieth anniversary on June 1st, 2013, The Cowgirl is preparing to ring in the next decade in style by planning an all-day-long block party celebration. Festivities will include live music from great local bands, freebies and giveaways of collectibles, and food and drink specials! The live music starts at noon, with Jim Almand, and continues through the day with The Bus Tapes, The Sean Healen Band, Jono Manson, Broomdust Caravan, Felix y Los Gatos, and The Joe West Revue. The Mayor will drop by at 2 p.m. to cut the birthday cake. Starting at 8pm on the patio, they’ll top off the evening with the live music of Bone Orchard.

This promises to be a terrific celebration and tribute to a well-loved restaurant and true local character. I’d like to say “Thank YOU!” to all the locals who voted for barbecue back in the 90s, and to the owners, and everyone since who has helped make The Cowgirl BBQ the great joint that it is!

Two of the Cowgirl Owners, Nicholas Ballas and Chef Patrick Lambert

Whether you’re local or happen to be here on vacation June 1st, stop in and join in the celebration to wish the hardworking owners and staff a well-deserved “HAPPY BIRTHDAY!”

For more information on The Cowgirl BBQ go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/restaurants/cowgirl-hall-of-fame

Custom Cowboy Boots: There’s A Trend On The Rise

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Maria Johnson

There’s a trend on the rise, and it started right here in Santa Fe! Everyone knows that since the mid-1800s cowboy boots have been a favorite of presidents and kings, and of course, cowboys, riders, wranglers, farmers and fashionistas all over the world. The myriad designs of hand-tooled, multi-colored leathers from cowhide to snakeskin, with the sloping stacked leather heel and pointed toe, never go out of style. But thanks to Roy Flynn, owner of our favorite custom cowboy boot store, Boots and Boogie, the custom-designed, hand-crafted, monogrammed boot is fast becoming a must-have amongst young women, particularly brides-to-be, all over the country. This pair is made from alligator belly on the foot and side stripe with cognac-colored, “mad dog” goat on the shaft, with a beautiful script monogram.

Southern-wedding-monogrammed-cowboy-boots

Custom Monogrammed Wedding Boots

Roy Flynn and the Boots and Boogie store are true Santa Fe characters. When I visited Roy recently, it wasn’t a surprise to find many people coming by just to chat awhile, and take photos of the tall cowboy and his unique array of high quality, custom-crafted boot designs that line the store like gallery art.

The living-room-sized sofa keeps you comfy while you try on boots, and take in all the artistry that surrounds you. It’s easy to hang out for awhile when your friendly host obviously loves what he does. And sure enough, a young bride-to-be came in to get her very own pair of monogrammed boots designed for her wedding in July. She was wise to plan ahead; a custom pair can take anywhere from a few weeks to five months to make.

Along with the extraordinary designs come some of the most unusual skins, including shark, stingray, gator, python, anaconda, hippo? Yes hippo, and even bullfrog!

Hand Tooled Custom Cowboy Boots Stingray skin and alligator.

Left and Right: Alligator. Center: Stingray skin, zebra design.

And if you don’t see something you like, you can create your own design. Pick and choose from skins, colors, designs, heel and toe shapes and sizes to your heart’s content.

Hand Tooled Custom Cowboy Boots Blue Bonnets

Hand Tooled Blue Bonnets

Roy works with a select few specialty boot makers. He likes to think of them as the “Buick, Cadillac and Rolls Royce” of their trade. The majority of the boots are his own designs. He doesn’t carry anything that would distract from the art of the boots in any way. Roy says, “Nothin’ but boots allows for top-quality attention to the customer, the specialty design, service and finished product.” This shorter boot has a beautiful hand-tooled and painted rendering of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Hand Tooled Our Lady of Guadalupe Boot

When someone loves what they do as much as Roy loves being a “custom boot guy,” it makes you wonder, do cowboys have more fun? “I get to meet some of the d’rndest people,” Roy says with his Texan lilt and beaming smile. “I have such a good time doin’ this.”

Another character and source of joy in Roy’s life is Boogie, his 9 year-old Malamute. “There’s nothin’ mute about him,” Roy says. “Boogie is a singer, and chatterbox. Every morning he sings along with me. It’s hilarious.”

Boots and Boogie and its wearable art is a Santa Fe attraction as worthy of a visit as a gallery or museum. In fact, at 73 years of age, Roy jokes about how Santa Fe is home to The Oldest Church and the Oldest House. “We can add that it’s home to the Oldest Cowboy Boot Guy too!” He says with a chuckle.

You’ll find Roy in the El Centro Shopping Center, across from the southwest corner of La Fonda Hotel. I recommend that everyone, whether in the market for a pair of boots or not, stop by and say “Hi”. You never know, you’ll likely learn more about why, according to Roy, “There’s nothing quite like being a cowboy late in life.”

For more information on Boots and Boogie go to: http://santafeselection.com/unique-shops/boots-and-boogie

Or Call Roy at: (505) 983-0777 and mention you saw this article on Santa Fe Selection. Thank you!

Taos Pueblo: A Place to Remember

Posted on April 25, 2013 by Maria Johnson

A visit to Taos Pueblo is one of those quintessential New Mexico experiences that every traveler and local must have.

Constructed between 1000 and 1450 A.D., it is one of the most significant cultural and historical landmarks in the world. Taos Pueblo is a veritable 1000-year-old history book that remains almost as untouched by modernization today as it was in 1540, when the Spanish came upon the village and believed it to be one of the “Seven Cities of Gold.” Still without electricity or plumbing within its walls, the ancient village rises out of the earth and sits proudly afoot the sentry of Taos Mountain.

Eliciting all the nostalgia of a time long past, this tiered structure is called Hlauuma in the Native Tiwa language, meaning North House. There is also the Hlaukwima, or South House, across the river. These are said to be the oldest inhabited communities in the U.S.

The Pueblo is painstakingly maintained by its residents. The Tribal Council ensures the inhabited structures’ mud exteriors are repaired and refreshed each September to shore up against the onset of winter. The flecks of straw in the adobe plaster show that no modern shortcuts have been used in this process.

A tiny house sits abandoned on the south side. And although it lacks its new coat, it has a picturesque appeal that tells its own story — both inside and out.

The ancient bowing beams show the stress from hundreds of years under a heavy dirt roof.

The artery of the Rio Pueblo de Taos flows alongside the main plaza where traditional ceremonies are held. To this day, the river is the main source of drinking water for the Pueblo.

About 150 people reside in the Pueblo full time. Others have homes outside the historic village perimeter, but on the reservation land. The reservation covers 99,000 acres. Within the village there is little, if any, sign of modernization. The residents remain loyal to their duties that maintain tradition, but they have to work hard to balance their traditional lifestyles with the demands of modern existence, which for many, includes achieving a college education. An important element for the Pueblo economy is tourism and the sale of Native arts and crafts. Although there isn’t an abundance of curio shops, you can find mica-flecked pottery, silver jewelry, moccasins, boots, drums, art and weavings.

The curio shops are individually owned, as are the few food shops that offer traditional dishes and snacks. And today, the comforting smell of fry bread smoke rises from a few of the horno ovens.

The original San Geronimo (Saint Jerome) church was built in 1619. After being destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, it was rebuilt. In 1847 it became a victim of the war between the U.S Army and Mexico. Now only its bell tower and the dancing crosses of its graveyard remain.

In 1850 the San Geronimo Chapel was completed. It sits facing the main plaza and looks almost new with its fresh paint and carefully tended walls, windows and doors.

Its row of blue windows greets visitors as they first enter the Pueblo by the main street.

The view of Taos Mountain is framed by the courtyard entrance.

The ancient and complex Tiwa (sometimes spelled Tewa) traditions and Catholic rites exist harmoniously within the lives of the Pueblo people. This symbiosis is also apparent in the mix of annual ceremonials and Feast Days.

Taos Pueblo Annual Ceremony Dates:

Jan. 1, Turtle Dance
Jan. 6, Deer or Buffalo Dance
May 3, Santa Cruz Feast Day
June 13, San Antonio Feast Day
June 24, San Juan Feast Day
July 12,13,14, — 28th Annual Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow
July 25, Santiago Feast Day
July 26, Santa Ana Feast Day
Sept. 29, San Geronimo Eve Vespers
Sept. 30, San Geronimo Day, Traditional Pole Climbing
Dec. 24, Procession of the Virgin Mary
Dec. 25, Deer or Matachines Dance

Note: No photography is permitted during the ceremonies and Feast Days.

(For a comprehensive calendar of all 19 Northern New Mexico Pueblo Feast Days and Ceremony dates go to: http://santafeselection.com/visitor-info/pueblo-feast-days-calendar)

Taos Pueblo is usually open to visitors daily from 8 am to 4:30 pm, except when tribal rituals require it to be closed to the public. In winter, it will close for about 10 weeks, usually from February 1 through March 31st. If visiting during this time, it is always wise to call ahead and check if it’s open. Taos Pueblo Tourism Department: (575) 758 1028

All visitors must sign in at the Visitor Center, pay the appropriate fees and adhere to the rules that respect the Pueblo, the privacy of residents, their homes and property. Adult admission: $10 per person
Students (11 and up, includes college with ID) $5 per person
Group Rates (6 or more Adults): $8 per person
Children 10 and under: Free
Camera Fees – Personal Photography
Camera, cell phone and video fee: $6 per camera

I have seen many beautiful photographs of Taos Pueblo — all rendered its mystery and a sense of familiarity with the tiered shapes and brightly colored doors and accents. But until I had actually been there and walked its streets, I could never have said I’d seen it. Taos Pueblo is an experience, a captured time, an irreplaceable wonder; something there are so few of these days.

For more information on Taos Pueblo, where to stay, eat and shop in the town of Taos, go to our Taos Day Trip Guide at: http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/taos-day-trip

For information on all 19 Northern New Mexico Pueblo Feast Days and Ceremony dates go to: http://santafeselection.com/visitor-info/pueblo-feast-days-calendar

Santa Fe Selection

The Travelers' Local Connection & Guide to the Best of Santa Fe

Author Archives: Maria Johnson

About Maria Johnson

Southwest Buckles, Bolos and Beyond

Santa Fe Indian Market – Past and Present

A Glimpse into Santa Fe’s Annual Spanish Market

The Deep Roots of New Mexico Wine Country

Where’s Your Inner Cowgirl?

The Cutting Edge in Santa Fe

It’s Time To Hit The High Road To Taos Again

Cowgirl BBQ: Celebrating Twenty Years!

Custom Cowboy Boots: There’s A Trend On The Rise

Taos Pueblo: A Place to Remember

About Maria Johnson

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