About Maria Johnson

I was born on the northwest coast of England. I first arrived in Santa Fe in 1984. I had traveled extensively for many years as a fashion model, and lived in many amazing places; New York, Paris, London, L.A. I was so taken by the diverse culture, history, landscape, weather and lifestyle of Santa Fe that I decided to make it my home. I finally moved here permanently in 1990. I feel Santa Fe is my true home and I'm so glad that I have been able to live in this enchanted place for so many years. In 2010, I began Santa Fe Selection, the free mobile and online guide to the authentic Santa Fe experience. It is aimed at helping guide travelers to the businesses and experiences that I believe make Santa Fe unique. I hope you're able to visit here someday. There really is no place like it. And if you like my blog, please comment. I am available to help you with your questions about your trip here. Feel free to comment on my blog or contact me directly at info@santafeselection.com or (505) 470-2991. I look forward to hearing from you. Best Wishes, Maria Johnson.

A Visit Through Santa Fe History

Posted on April 18, 2014 by Maria Johnson

With a fossil record that dates back to the Triassic period, and a human record predating 900 A.D, there’s nothing bite-sized about Santa Fe history. Though it’s tough to abbreviate such a rich and complex past, I have rummaged through time to post a brief-ish trek, beginning just prior to the arrival of the Spanish and leading up to the birth of the state.

1050-1607: Native Americans occupied the region. A small group of village dwellings were located around what is now known as the Historic Plaza area. The village was then known as ‘Ogap’oge, said to mean Olivella Water Place. Olivella is a shell originating in Mexico and the Gulf of California. It was traded among the ancient Native tribes and eventually found its way to New Mexico. It was used primarily for ornamentation in jewelry and crafts.

1540: Spanish Conquistador Don Francisco Vasquez de Coronado arrived by way of Mexico in search of the fabled Cibola, or Seven Cities of Gold. He claimed the area as the “Kingdom of New Mexico,” a part of the larger empire known as New Spain.

Don Francisco Vasquez de Coronado

Drawn map of Kingdom of New Mexico in New Spain, by Jose Antonio de Alzate y Ramirez circa 1760. It also shows the Native Tribal Territories.

1598: Don Juan de Oñate established the capital of the “Kingdom” to be Ohkay Owingeh (Place of the Strong People), the Tewa village 25 miles north of Santa Fe.

The village was renamed San Juan Pueblo. (Quite recently, in 2005, the name was officially returned to the original Tewa, Ohkay Owingeh.) In 1598, there were approximately 40,000 Indians in the region. Even though there was little resistance, Oñate instilled fear by killing, mutilating, and enslaving hundreds of the Native people.

Main Plaza of San Juan Pueblo again known as Ohkay Owinge

Main Plaza of San Juan Pueblo. Ohkay Owingeh, photographed in the early 1900s, Courtesy of Palace of the Governors photo archives.

1607: The Spanish worked to colonize the indigenous people. Priests and officials attempted to obliterate the traditions, ceremonies, and beliefs of the ancient Native culture.

1609: Don Pedro de Peralta was appointed Governor-General. He founded a new city at the foot of the Sangre de Cristos, and called it “La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asis,” the Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi. It’s now known as Santa Fe.

Statue of Peralta on Grant Ave. by Dave McGary

1610: Peralta made La Villa Real de Santa Fe the capital of the province. Between 1610 and 1618, construction of The Palace of the Governors began.

1670s: Drought caused famine, and the ongoing colonization efforts by the Spanish caused unrest among the Native people.

1675: Juan Francisco Treviño was Governor. He ordered hundreds of Native religious effigies be collected and destroyed.

Example of Religious effigy: Zuni Kachina Doll, prize winner at the 2013 Indian Market by Bart Gasper.

Forty-seven Pueblo medicine men were arrested and sentenced to death for sorcery. The sentence was carried out on three men. Some were publicly whipped, one committed suicide, the rest were imprisoned.

Among them was important Ohkay Owingeh religious leader, Po’pay. The news of the capture spread to the Pueblo leaders. Seventy Native warriors marched to Governor Treviño’s headquarters and demanded release of the prisoners. The prisoners were released without fighting.

Po’pay moved to Taos Pueblo after his release, and over the next five years gathered the support of eleven other Pueblos to run the Spanish out of New Mexico.

1680: August 10th, Po’pay led the “Pueblo Revolt.”

Grand Prize Winner at 2013’s Spanish Market. Mural of 1680 Pueblo Revolt by Jose Ramon Lopez.

The last stronghold of the Spanish was the Palace of the Governors, the one public building not destroyed in the fighting. (It is now the oldest public building in the U.S.)

Image courtesy of Palace of Governors photo archives. Date unknown

The Indians diverted the Palace’s water supply and by late August, or early September, the Spanish retreated to El Paso del Norte, led by then New Mexico Governor Antonio de Otermin. Native warriors followed them, from a distance, all the way to the border to ensure they made their exit.

1681: November, Otermin tries to return and claim power. By January 1682, his attempts fail. He returns to El Paso. Pueblo Indians continued to occupy Santa Fe and worked hard to maintain footing against frequent invasion from the Comanche, Apache, and other nomadic tribes.

1692: Don Diego de Vargas arrived to claim his 1688 Spanish appointment as the new Governor of New Mexico. It was September 13th. His company comprised a light infantry, seven cannons and one Franciscan priest. He offered protection from invading forces, in exchange for the return to the Catholic faith by the Indians. The Indians reluctantly acquiesced. On September 14^th, it was official. Don Diego de Vargas’ “peaceful” return of the Spanish is celebrated today. Every September, members of the Fiestas de Santa Fe re-enact the event at the Plaza.

1696: As the years ticked on, the Natives grew tired of the continued oppression imposed on their traditions. A second revolt was attempted by fourteen Pueblos. Bloodshed was abundant on both sides. This revolt was less organized than the first, and sporadic fighting dragged on over the course of the next four years.

Late 1690s: By this time, De Vargas had established secure hold of the region. The Spanish issued substantial land grants to the Pueblos, and appointed a public defender to protect Indians’ rights and represent them in Spanish courts. Franciscan priests lightened their efforts to eradicate Native traditions and religious ceremonies. A peaceful alliance formed between the Spanish, the Pueblo Indians, Apaches and Navajos. Comanches still raided the city at times.

For the next hundred years or so, Santa Fe’s municipality grew and prospered.

1821: Mexico gained independence from Spain. New Mexico became a province of Mexico and Santa Fe became the capital of New Mexico. The Spanish lifted their closed trading policy that only allowed trade between the British, French and Americans. Trade opened between Mexico and the U.S.

William Becknell started the 1,000 mile-long Santa Fe Trail, between Santa Fe and Missouri. More American settlers arrived.

William Becknell on the Santa Fe Trail, 1821.

1846 : The Mexican-American War broke out. On August 18^th, General Stephen Watts Kearny claimed Santa Fe, raising the American flag over the Plaza. (The Palace of the Governors had undergone some face-lifts and facade changes throughout the various governorships. The image below shows one of them.)

Raising the American Flag over the Palace of the Governors, Aug 18th, 1846. Photo of painting by Kenneth Chapman. Palace of Governors Photo Archives.

1848: New Mexico, Arizona and California were signed over to the U.S in the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo.

1850: French bishop Jean Baptiste Lamy was appointed Archbishop of the Santa Fe territory. Lamy caused a big shock to the Spanish when he decreed that all the Spanish religious carvings and effigies be removed from the Spanish parish church, La Parroquia. He replaced them with ceramic religious icons imported from France.

Bishop Jean Baptiste Lamy. circa 1814.

1870: Lamy began plans for building his dream cathedral. He chose the same site where a small mission church had stood until it burned down during the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. The Spanish had replaced it with La Parroquia. Lamy replaced that with the St. Francis Cathedral. Lamy also commissioned the building of the first hospital in the area.

View of Santa Fe from Fort Marcy. St. Francis Cathedral in center. circa 1887. Image: Palace of Governors Photo Archives

1873: Lamy encouraged the Sisters of Loretto to build the Loretto Chapel. See my blog article on the history of Loretto Chapel.

Loretto Academy with Loretto Chapel in center. Santa Fe, ca 1909. Image: Palace of Governors Photo Archives

Loretto Academy buildings with Loretto Chapel in center, Santa Fe, ca 1909. Image: Palace of Governors Photo Archives

1878: Lew Wallace was appointed Governor. The Palace of the Governors was where he completed his well-known novel, Ben-Hur.

Gov. Lew Wallace and a first edition of Ben-Hur – 1880.

1880: The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad reached Santa Fe via a branch line from Lamy, a small town about 20 miles outside Santa Fe. Ranching boomed and so did the population, trading and tourism.

1889: A petition was received at Washington’s Capitol Hill asking that New Mexico not become a state under its own rule for fear of the local politicians being too corrupt.

City of Holy Faith, Santa Fe looking Southeast. Christian G Kaadt. circa 1895. Palace of Governors Photo Archives.

“City of The Holy Faith,” Santa Fe looking Southeast. Christian G Kaadt. circa 1895. Palace of Governors Photo Archives.

1909: The New Mexico Museum opened.

Wood vendor outside the N.M Museum of Fine Arts, c 1920. P.O.G photo archives, NM History Mus.

Still standing strong in 2014.

1912: January 6^th, New Mexico became the 47th state. President Taft signs the Proclamation, saying, “Well, it is all over. I am glad to give you life. I hope you will be healthy.”

1912, President Taft signing the Proclamation of Independence for New Mexico.

And that’s just the beginning! There’s a lot more fascinating history, but not for today’s blog.

One of the beautiful things about this area is the preservation and continual use of so many original historical buildings.

Palace of the Governors, 2014, where the Native American vendors sell their crafts every day.

Palace of the Governors, 2014. The oldest public building in the U. S. And where Native American vendors sell their art and crafts every day.

Palace of the Governors Portal and Native American Vendors, 2014

The unique mix of varied architectural styles, from the earth-colored adobes, to the Territorial Revival themes, render a mystique of times past and stand beautifully defiant to current trends.

San_Miguel_Church_and_Saint_Michaels_College_Santa_Fe_New_Mexico.1881.whjacksonco

1881: San Miguel Church and St. Michaels’ School, Santa Fe, NM. Photo by W.H. Jackson and Co. Courtesy of the Palace of the Governors photo archives.

2014: The Oldest Church in the U.S. San Miguel Mission circa 1610. Badly damaged in the 1680 Revolt, rebuilt and restored many times. It sits alongside the original St. Michael’s School building, which now houses the Lamy Visitor’s Center.

I love that history is so important here. Diverse cultures proudly continue to honor their ancestors in a variety of ways. The Native cultures honor their traditions with religious feast days and ceremonial events throughout the year. One of the ways the Spanish heritage is honored is with Fiesta de Santa Fe, held every September on and around the Santa Fe Plaza.

If you’re visiting, there’s no substitute for a tour with a knowledgeable historian to delve deeper into Santa Fe’s fascinating stories, rumors, folklore and facts.

I recommend the walking tours around the historic Plaza area that leave from the New Mexico History Museum next to the Palace of the Governors, April through October, Mon-Sat at 10 am for $10.

It can be very interesting to chat to some of the locals, such as “Don Timoteo” Cordova, owner of local favorite restaurant Casa Chimayo. Don Timoteo is a direct descendent of the first Jaramillo and Archuleta families that arrived in the late 1500s and early 1600s. His restaurant is an original family home built in the early 1930s. He’s happy to tell guests of the Spanish history as passed down from his ancestors; just ask him. You can also go to pueblo villages and learn the Native perspective from some of the artists and locals. Cultural Treasures Tours with Robbie O’Neill offer a unique opportunity to meet Native American artists who have heard the history of their people as it has been passed down through generations.

At the state’s Visitor Center, in the Lamy Building that was once St. Michael’s School, on Old Santa Fe Trail, longtime local and historian Terry Tiedeman welcomes visitors with an excellent “Walk Through Turn of the Century Santa Fe” map to guide you to historical neighborhoods and buildings.

The area’s tumultuous history and the fact that many diverse cultures now, at last, peacefully co-exist here, is testament to how strong an affinity many folks feel for this radically different place. I felt it when I first arrived in 1984 – still do.

2014 Early spring on Santa Fe Plaza, facing north to the Palace of the Governors.

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References

http://www.capitolreportnewmexico.com/

http://www.history.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_Revolt

http://archive.org/

Santa Fe’s Own Distillery Row: Santa Fe Spirits

Posted on March 8, 2014 by Maria Johnson

Colin Keegan, owner of Santa Fe Spirits, wended his way to Santa Fe from Newcastle in northeast England. I think he’d get a kick out of the idea that as I listened to him tell his story, I was reminded of a familiar beer commercial, “He has climbed Mont Blanc, Kilimanjaro, and Denali. He was an architect. He left England to become a beach-bum in the Virgin Islands. He made apple brandy from his back yard orchard in Santa Fe…”

Colin earned his degree in Design Technology in England and worked in London. Riding the economic ups and downs has certainly been a challenge for architects and designers since the eighties, but Colin adapted his skills to the projects that came along to enjoy many years of success. One of the projects was in the British Virgin Islands. “I always dreamed of becoming a beach bum. This seemed like an opportunity to do that,” says Colin with his Newcastle, Geordie accent that takes me back to my merry ole’ homeland. “But I ended up working on the project the whole time.” While in the B.V.I., Colin met his wife-to-be, Suzette, and her one-year-old daughter Phoebe. After two years living the island life, the new family decided to move to Santa Fe, where Suzette’s parents were originally from.

Colin designed their dream home on a plot of land in Tesuque, originally homesteaded by Archbishop Lamy’s groundskeeper. With its large, mature apple orchard, this land would change Colin’s career direction and get him into the “spirit” of things – literally.

The overabundance of apples the orchard produced each fall gave rise to a bit of a problem. “We had about 500 gallons of apples to get rid of every year,” says Colin.

“We’d have friends over for apple pressing parties,” he says. “It was fun, but there’s only so much apple juice and cider you can drink before it begins to turn.” A friend suggested making it into apple brandy as a way to make it last.

It wasn’t long before Colin realized he had a budding new career direction ahead of him. He turned down a promotion from the New Mexico engineering project he had been working on and dedicated his time to this new baby.

Santa Fe Spirits’ Still

After a year of licensing and legal hoop jumping, Colin started his distillery. In 2010, he bought a small building on Mallard Way, about 10 miles southwest of downtown Santa Fe, to house the still for the production of the company’s signature Apple Brandy.

Colin admits the learning curve of handcrafting artisan liquors has had its peaks and valleys. Knowing when to capture that fleeting window of transition between the “heads, hearts and tails” in the distilling process to create that quintessential flavor is just one of the many marks of a true veteran distiller. Santa Fe Spirits has definitely made the grade by creating four award-winning products in as many years. They are the spirits of choice at many top hotels, bars and restaurants around Santa Fe and can be bought at stores throughout Texas, Colorado, Oklahoma, New Mexico, and Oregon.

All four award-winners and the new Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey

Unique to Santa Fe Spirits’ products are the locally sourced, organic ingredients that render a distinctly Southwestern flavor profile. The Wheeler’s Gin is a special botanical blend named for George Montague Wheeler, an explorer and cartographer who mapped New Mexico in the 1870s. By the way, northeast of Taos is Wheeler Peak, the tallest point in New Mexico at 13,167 feet.

Captain Wheeler by Alice Pike Barney

Bright fuchsia blossoms of the desert cholla cactus add to the gin’s aromatic back-note.

Cholla Cactus in bloom

Flowering season is short for the cholla, from late spring to early summer. “The staff pick them from the nearby mesa, along the Rio Grande Gorge en route to Taos, or wherever we see a field in bloom,” says Colin.

Osha root is another botanical, which grows within a limited altitude range above 7,000 feet. Santa Fe’s Sangre de Cristos are the perfect elevation. Let’s not forget the prolific native sage, and juniper berries. All converge to create a distinctly Southwestern flavor.

The compass on the gin label is a tribute to Wheeler’s accomplishments in literally putting New Mexico on the map.

The name Expedition Vodka is a tip of the hat to Colin’s past accomplishments as a world traveler, when he had the time to go on expeditions and climb 20,000-foot-tall mountains. “This is my expedition now,” he says smiling, “I don’t have time for anything else.”

The newest arrival to this family of artisan spirits is the Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey. Made much as the good ole’ Scots do it, but instead of using the Scottish peat to smoke the grain, they use the more indigenous mesquite wood. It is expected to outdo its siblings in awards and sales.

The licensing and liquor laws have changed over recent years to allow small businesses to distill, and to offer tours, tastings and their own whiskey bars. The trend is fast becoming as popular as the numerous boutique breweries and wineries that have been doing well for many years nationwide. Santa Fe Spirits is the first boutique distillery and tasting room in Santa Fe proper, and one of only five in New Mexico. They offer tours and tastings at the distillery for groups and individuals.

Climate controlled barrel room. Has to have the perfect humidity and temperature to keep leaks away in the desert.

In July 2013, Santa Fe Mayor David Coss cut the ribbon on Santa Fe Spirits’ new downtown tasting room in the heart of the Railyard District at 308 Read Street.

Downtown Tasting Room Ribbon Cutting. July 2013

Downtown Tasting Room Ribbon Cutting, Colin and Mayor Coss. July 2013

The cozy bar offers myriad, colorful varieties of straight-up and cocktail creations, Monday through Saturday from 1:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Santa Fe Spirits’ Downtown Tasting Room

“Whiskey is now what tequila was a decade ago,” says Nicolas Ballas, co-owner of The Cowgirl Restaurant in downtown Santa Fe. And he should know, he’s been supplying his popular bar for over twenty years. Now he’s expanding the bar’s whiskey options to keep his customers satisfied. Santa Fe Spirits is a healthy part of that inventory.

When talking to Colin, you can sense the great pride he has in his bustling hive of industry. He seems right at home and content with all the demands the business places on him. He’s also very proud of his well-trained crew of employees that works hard to grow the company in all areas of the production process, from distilling to marketing and distribution. “I intend to keep growing the product line and adding to the employee roster. It feels good to be able to employ good people,” says Colin. “We aim to be the regional distillery competing with quality standards on a national level.”

Colin at the Distillery Bar on Mallard Way.

With the expansion of the product line comes the need for more space. Since 2012, Santa Fe Spirits has bought two buildings adjacent to the original distillery to house the additional vats, grains, barrels, product and offices. They are planning to open tasting rooms around New Mexico, including Albuquerque and Taos.

It’s fun for me, as an English ex-pat, to know other Brits in Santa Fe. There are quite a few, and it seems this down-to-earth English guy has also found his calling in northern New Mexico. Congratulations Colin! You’ve given Santa Fe its very own Distillery Row.

For more information on Santa Fe Spirits or to schedule a tour and/or tasting call (505) 467-8892 or go to: http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/santa-fe-spirits-distillery

Santa Fe Mountain Adventures – A Love Story

Posted on February 5, 2014 by Maria Johnson

Santa Fe Walkabouts began in 2008, and became Santa Fe Mountain Adventures in 2016. The story behind how owners Sue and Georges met, and created the top outdoor adventure company in Santa Fe, is a fascinating series of events, coincidence and destiny.

I met up with Sue and Georges Mally to learn more about them and their highly popular custom adventures. In a quiet corner of Casa Chimayo Restaurante, I was moved by their respective stories of struggles and exile from their countries of origin, and the extraordinary tale of how they met in Santa Fe. I couldn’t help wondering, Was it only coincidence that they met for the first time on the Plaza that sunny September afternoon? Or was it Santa Fe working its Cupid magic? You decide.

Sue and Georges Mally at Casa Chimayo Restaurante

Sue and her younger brother were born in Burma during the political upheaval of the 1960s, when the country was ruled by an aggressive military regime. Sue’s parents knew they needed to escape in order for their family to be safe and flourish. In 1969, with the help of friends and fake passports, the family escaped, with one suitcase each. Sue was then seven-years old and her brother was six. They made their way to Malaysia. The family were forced to renounce their Burmese citizenship. In Malaysia, Sue was able to go to English-speaking schools, and at the age of 17, she came to the U.S. to attend college in Washington D.C.

Georges Mally and Jornado Mogollon petroglyph

Georges and a Jornado Mogollon petroglyph at Three Rivers Petroglyph site.

Georges was born in Bulgaria during the Communist regime. Both his grandfathers were Christian Orthodox priests, highly respected in the small villages they called home. Their status in the community targeted them as threats to the Communist ideology and they were imprisoned. Both Georges’ grandfathers endured the atrocities of the “gulags” (Soviet-style forced labor camps) for 10 years. It was 1969, the same year Sue and her family were escaping Burma, when Georges’ young parents escaped to Trieste, Italy in search of a better life to raise their son. They were two of only five people to escape from Bulgaria that year.

Georges stayed with his mother’s parents until he could be sent for. He was 3 years old when his parents left. They made the arduous journey to Trieste, only to be taken to Naples and held in a refugee camp for a year to ensure they weren’t spies. After their release, they settled in Paris.

Finding a way to get Georges out of the country was extremely difficult and dangerous for his parents. They had to remain hidden from the Bulgarian authorities to avoid being killed for their escape. There were many attempts to get Georges out, but they all failed. Georges and his grandparents made numerous trips to the airport over the years, believing he’d be able to leave with the passport they managed to get for him. Every time he was turned away for some seemingly trivial reason.

One day, Georges was playing soccer in a school yard, when both his grandmothers rushed him into a taxi and whisked him back to the airport. They had news that it would work this time, and it did. Georges got on the plane to Paris with a few photos his grandmothers had stuffed in his pocket, and nothing more than the clothes he was wearing that day. He faced a new and unfamiliar life with parents who were, by now, strangers to him. It had taken eight years for them to be reunited. He was eleven years old.

Sue first arrived in Santa Fe in 2001. She was in search of the ideal retreat from her corporate consulting work and the bustle of the life she’d made for herself in New York City. “The blue skies, mountains and adobe buildings really attracted me,” said Sue. “Out of all the places I visited in New Mexico, Santa Fe felt the most friendly and welcoming to me. And so different from the East Coast.”

After repeated visits, Sue eventually bought a little adobe home in 2005. She’d return as often as she could and spent a lot of time exploring the mountain hiking trails and discovering known and lesser known sites and spectacles.

Recent Snow Shoeing Tour in the Sangre de Cristo’s

Georges grew up to become a manager at a large corporation in Paris. In his free time, he was an avid cyclist and outdoor adventurer. His vacation time was often spent cycling all over Europe. In 2006, he was planning a month-long trip and realized Europe wasn’t quite big enough. Its borders and visas were prohibitive. So he looked to the U.S. to find broader horizons where he could cycle for a month and still be in the same country. He liked the look of Route 66 – it was his birthday year. The journey began in Chicago and ended in Santa Monica, California. He was to cover 8 states and 2,200 miles in 30 days .

On his map, he read about the Oldest Capital in the United States at an elevation of 7,000 feet, and became intrigued. His mind leapt to the tundra and steep climbs he’d made in Switzerland. On September 23rd, he was surprised to find he’d made the gradual climb to Santa Fe and arrived at 7000 feet. “It wasn’t at all what I expected. I had to double-check my elevation monitor to make sure it was working. There were still trees and grasses at such a height, and open expanses of land. There were no switchbacks, no tundra, as in the high elevation towns in Europe,” he says in the strongest French accent you’ve ever heard!!

Georges on a scouting hike at Gold Hill near Taos Ski Basin

As he prepared to leave Santa Fe the next day, a spoke broke on his bike. He got it fixed, but rather than head out of town after the repairs were made, he decided to postpone his trip for a day to explore. He took a ride up the mountain to Hyde Park. Returning via the Plaza, he took a spot on a park bench to listen to the live music from the bandstand.

A Favorite Biking Spot for Santa Fe Walkabouts

Glorieta Mesa: A Favorite Biking Spot for Santa Fe Mountain Adventures

This same day, September 24th, Sue had been shopping for gifts for her friends and cowboy boots for herself, before her return to New York City. She also stopped to enjoy the live music on the Plaza for a while. She moved toward a bench to sit when a very tall man with a bike sat down there. “He took my bench!” she recalls, laughing. “So, I started to leave when a lady nearby noticed my shopping bag and asked me what I’d bought. I told her ‘cowboy boots.’ And the guy with the bike chimed in saying, ‘Boots? Isn’t it too early for boots.’”

“’It’s never too early for boots.’ I said, and I couldn’t help notice that French accent.”

And that was the beginning of a long, successful love affair between two people from faraway places with dramatically similar histories, and the City Different and all its surrounding wilderness.

Moonrise over Santa Fe captured by Santa Fe Walkabouts.

Moonrise over Santa Fe captured by SFMA.

By 2007, they’d quit their corporate positions and moved to Santa Fe to create a new life together. “It took a year for us to figure out what to do for a living,” said Georges. “We knew how much we love touring, hiking and biking the area ourselves, and its very special history and culture. And we love sharing it with others. It was a natural transition to set up a business customizing tours to guide people to whatever they wanted to do and see.” In 2008, Santa Fe Walkabouts was born.

In 2016, they changed the name to Santa Fe Mountain Adventures, now ranked the number one activity company out of more than 60 in Santa Fe by TripAdvisor. They offer guests a full spectrum of customized adventure options from scenic walks, hiking and biking, to cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and Pinzgauer off-road tours.

Pinzgauer 6x6. Santa Fe Walkabouts' unique off-road vehicle

Pinzgauer 6×6. Santa Fe Walkabouts’ unique off-road vehicle

“What’s a Pinzgauer?” I hear you ask. It’s radically different from any 4×4 you’ve ever experienced, and not just because it’s actually a 6×6. This official vehicle of the Swiss Army grabs like a caterpillar on rugged terrain and is a smoother ride than a cushy SUV.

Pinzgauer Outing La Bajada

Sue and Georges now have two Pinzgauers to tour with. They are the only tour company in New Mexico to offer this particular unique experience. The latest Pinz addition can hold up to 14 people. It’s a fun and different way to experience the varied terrains and vistas in and around Santa Fe.

Winter Pinz Ride.

“I guess the least convoluted way to answer why we chose a Pinzgauer versus another off-road vehicle is chance,” said Sue. “In many ways, that seems to be the undercurrent of our lives. Lots of good luck and opportunities that present themselves.” (But that’s a story for another time.)

Santa Fe Mountain Adventures offers hundreds of tour and trail options to choose from in Northern New Mexico. Many of which require special, costly permits through the appropriate state and federal agencies. “We are all guardians of the land and the permits help ensure the land stays healthy and cared for,” said Georges, who is often out trekking and scoping more places to guide their guests. “There’s always something new to find.”

Kasha Katuwe – Tent Rocks

The diversity of cultures in and around Santa Fe, its history and unique architecture, and the variety of seasons allow for year-round, fun outdoor experiences. Sue and Georges’ enthusiastic passion for the New Mexico outdoors is a palpable quality they impart to their clients. In 2013 alone, they hosted as many as 1200 guests.

“Santa Fe is the first place we’ve each lived where we don’t feel the need to get away from it,” says Georges. “There’s so much to do here that we’re always entertained. And we love sharing that feeling with our guests from all over the world. We really enjoy exchanging stories of cultures and traditions.”

Bandelier Tyuonyi Pueblo

“The sense of rooted history and ancient traditions and cultures here is reminiscent of Europe,” says Georges. “Taos Pueblo, for example, is the oldest continuously inhabited place in North America. It’s been here for over a thousand years! And it is amazing to meet some of the families in Santa Fe and many of the rural villages that have been here for over 300 years. That really means a lot to us.”

Santa Fe is known as one of the most romantic spots in the country. It is an easy place to fall in love with, and in. The confluence of Sue and Georges’ lives happened in Santa Fe in an extraordinary way that September afternoon. They married in 2007, in true “outdoorsy” fashion. The freedom in the U.S. to marry outside of a church or registry office appealed to them. They chose Hyde Park, a trail-head and camping area just outside town, on the way up the mountain toward the ski basin.

The Wedding Guests and Sue and George at Hyde Park

The Wedding Guests with Sue and Georges at Hyde Park

“It was a small, very informal ceremony, with just a few friends,” said Sue. Then she smiled and said, “Right after the ceremony we went for a three-mile hike to celebrate.”

Sue and Georges’ post-wedding hike with friends.

Santa Fe Mountain Adventures enjoys hosting small groups (from 4 -14 people) and solo travelers. It is helpful and recommended to give them some notice in order to plan the ideal outing. But, they also cater to the last minute caller in search of an exciting tour.

For more information on Santa Fe Mountain Adventures call (505) 988-4000 and go to: http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/santa-fe-mountain-adventures

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Fly Fishing Year-Round in Northern New Mexico

Posted on January 21, 2014 by Maria Johnson

People are often amazed to hear that the fly fishing in Northern New Mexico is excellent throughout the year, or, for that matter, that there is fishing of any sort in the high desert.

Jarrett Sasser, owner of High Desert Angler, is the go-to guide and resource for all things fly-fishing in and around Northern New Mexico. “I get a lot of people asking me, ‘Where do you fish here?’,” says Jarrett, “because they can’t believe there’s enough water in the high desert. I pull out the map and show them at least 14 or 15 different places, all within a two-hour drive of Santa Fe. There is no closed season here. We’ve got lakes, big river and small river fishing. We’re lucky we can run the seasons.”

It was THIS big! – Jarrett Sasser, owner of High Desert Angler

The Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range forms the southern tip of the Rockies. The Chama, Pecos, Rio Grande, and Brazos Rivers run through Northern New Mexico. There’s a wide variety of trout in these waters, including Rainbow, Brown, Rio Grande Cutthroat, and Brook, along with Smallmouth Bass and Northern Pike. There’s also a land-locked salmon called Kokanee, which is of the Sockeye species.

Jarrett and a winter Brown Trout

For more than fifteen years, High Desert Angler has been the top fly-fishing company in Santa Fe. Over time, Jarrett and his dedicated team have cultivated strong relationships with landowners in Northern New Mexico and Southern Colorado. They have access to some of the best private rivers, lakes and streams you can find.

Jarrett grew up bass fishing in Austin, Texas. His grandfather was a guide in the North woods during the Depression, and he passed along a “few basics” to Jarrett. He also realized Jarrett had a knack for fishing and told him, “You could make a living at it.” To hear Jarrett tell it, it sounds as if he spent most of his childhood angling (pardon the pun) to skip school so he could go fishing. “I was pretty keen to fish,” he says with a smile.

It wasn’t until he arrived in Santa Fe that Jarrett took up fly fishing. Since his arrival, in his late teens, his passion and determination set him on course to fulfill his dream of becoming a guide. He sought work that kept him close to the water or the sport in some way. He worked as a river-rafting guide, and in the retail store for a fly fishing outfitter called High Desert Angler, then owned by Jan Crawford.

“Jan was a good mentor,” Jarrett says. “She taught me the management side of the retail business.” It took some time before Jan allowed Jarrett the responsibility of his own guiding trips. “I would work in the store without pay, so I could borrow equipment and head out to practice alone. That way I could keep learning from doing and hone my skills to become a guide.”

Meeting future wife Glory was another stroke of fishing fortune for Jarrett. Although Glory’s family is from Northern New Mexico, Glory was born in New Zealand. When they went for a visit, Jarrett took to the Kiwi waters with ease, gaining more worldly experience. He has since traveled extensively to fish in both fresh and salt water in Argentina, Chile, British Columbia, The Bahamas, and Belize, to mention a few.

Back in Santa Fe, he began availing his skills as an independent guide. Jan and other outfitters sent him clients and it wasn’t long before he was developing “a nice group of return customers.”

Summer on the Pecos River – Rainbow Trout

In 1999, Jan wanted to sell the outfitting business. “It was around that time we found out we had our first baby on the way,” said Jarrett. “Glory encouraged me to get a loan and buy the store. There were lots of changes coming.” It was 2001 when they finally bought the business.

“It was a tough year to start up with 9/11, the economy, forest fires and many closures. But we trudged through.”

Fifteen years and three children later (all of them anglers), Jarrett’s High Desert Angler is going strong as the leading fly-fishing guide and outfitter in Santa Fe. They offer a variety of classes for all skill levels. “It’s great to take out a family, individuals, or groups of friends. We show them how to have a great time, so they love it so much they’ll come back for more.”

The store has moved locations a few times, but now couldn’t be more ideally situated on its tiny island amid the streams of Santa Fe arteries Cerrillos Road and Sandoval downtown.

High Desert Angler Outfitters on its own island in downtown Santa Fe.

The shop is well stocked with all the supplies, flies, waders, line, rods and all kinds of tackle anyone could want.

The worldly experience Jarrett and his guides bring to the business gives them an edge in knowing how to cater to the needs of anglers, no matter where they’re from and what they’re used to. “The waters here attract anglers from around the world. It’s good to know for someone calling us from, say, Argentina, that we’ll have the gear and supplies they need when they get here.”

Fly Fishing Outfitter High Desert Angler

One section of the massive fly selection at H.D.A

The crew of seven guides have been with Jarrett since the beginning. All are experts in their field and either native to the area, or long-term transplants.

Norman Maktima, Head Guide at High Desert Angler

Norman Maktima is Jarrett’s head guide. He is a local Native American from San Felipe Pueblo. In 1998, Norman was a junior member on Team U.S.A. at the World Fly Fishing Championships and became the only U.S competitor to win gold that year. He continues to compete annually for Team U.S.A, which takes him around the world, including Italy, Norway, Scandinavia and many others.

Pecos River- Fishing amid the changing leaves in Autumn

Global weather changes continue to affect everything, and New Mexico is no exception. In 2013, the Tres Lagunas and Jaroso fires coursed through almost 14,000 acres in the Pecos Wilderness area. Late summer floods dumped mud, ash and silt into the Pecos River. “It was very depressing,” says Jarrett. “The river was black, the birds and bugs were gone. We watched it change in front of us. We hung in there and fished other areas during that time, and hoped the river would revive.” The Sasser family live alongside the Pecos River, so they got to watch the next phase of Mother Nature’s cleanup operation.

“In September, it started raining one day and the river slowly rose. The next morning the whole back yard was flooded. It was higher than I’d ever seen it before. It just kept rising. The flow was recorded at 5,000 cubic feet per second, and a 9-foot wall of water was plunging through the canyon – the highest water on record. The flood lasted almost 10 days and it flushed out the ash from the burn scars at a rapid rate. Now it’s pristine again. It’s pretty amazing. The water is crystal clear, and the wildlife is restored. The banks are primed for new growth in spring. We thought it would take years to come back. It’s beautiful again already. Mother Nature needed to cleanse and she really did.

The entire corridor is better than I’ve ever seen it in 25 years. Now we’re off and running. We’re booking up for guide trips through 2014, and I’m excited about the conditions we’ll have,” said Jarrett.

Teo Sasser fishing in his father’s footsteps – Pecos River

It may be a little-known fact that Northern New Mexico offers top-class fishing, “But that’s ok,” says Jarrett, “we like it that way.” The crew of High Desert Angler are some of these waters’ best guardians and stewards and it’s a good sign that they’re looking forward to another year of great catch and release.

I’m resolving to make this the year I hang that sign on the door saying, “Gone fishin’!”

I’ll let you know how I do.

For more information on High Desert Angler call (505) 988-7688 or go to: http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/high-desert-angler and learn details on the latest stream reports, guide trips, and various classes.

Tour the World at The International Folk Art Market – Santa Fe

Posted on January 9, 2014 by Maria Johnson

Intended as a one-time event in 2004, the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe is now the largest of its kind in the world. Now, this highly anticipated extravaganza is held every year, usually the second weekend in July, in Santa Fe. Since it began, as many as 650 master folk artists from as many as 80 countries across six continents have participated. I hope you enjoy the following visual record I took at the 2013 market. I tried to make note of everyone’s name and country, but I admit I couldn’t keep track of them all.

It is a global event in many ways. Where else can you find so many fascinating people and cultures gathered in one place? You can literally take a stroll around the world. Wend your way under the canopies, and be awestruck by the vast displays of art flowing in waves of color and texture like a global smorgasbord.

Silks in abundance

Visitors from all over the globe gather in Santa Fe each July to experience this weekend celebration of folk art, music, food and fun at Museum Hill’s Plaza, surrounded by expansive vistas and mountain ranges.

Brazilian visitors on a shopping spree at the International Folk Art Market Santa Fe

Brazilian visitors on a shopping spree. They made a special trip to buy for their boutique back home.

Kenya, Japan, Madagascar, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, India, Korea, Venezuela, Swaziland, Palestine, the Kingdom of Tonga and Peru are just a few of the countries participating. Wood carvings, pottery, textiles, jewelry, clothing, sculpture, beadwork, basketry, retablos, musical instruments; if you can imagine it, it is probably at the market along with many things you haven’t begun to imagine.

Tambourines

Peruvian hand-carved and painted gourds.

Artists keep working on pieces as the market bustles around them.

Sisters Ique and Adriana Etacore de Picanerai are Ayoreo Indians from the Bolivian savannah. They weave bags, skirts, belts, panels and honey pots from native plant fibers.

Manjula Thakur of Nepal. Maithili painting on handmade paper

Over the years, many artists have won numerous awards and gained celebrity status, and a loyal following of collectors world-wide. Elhadji Kumama is a well-known jeweler and member of the Tuareg metalsmiths.

Elhadji Koumama of Niger, with a loyal fan of his Tuareg Jewelry

The Tuareg lead a nomadic lifestyle. They keep moving in search of areas that will help them earn an income, so they can send money back home to support their families. They use simple tools and fine stones and silver to create a variety of accessories. Jewelry-making is an easily portable trade for a nomad.

Situated between the Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, Museum Hill’s Plaza is the ideal location for this event. There’s plenty of room for all the tents and stalls, juice stands, food booths, the stage and cashier booths.

Museum Hill Plaza

You don’t have to be an art lover to appreciate the uniqueness of this world event. All weekend long, musicians from far off lands perform on the stage.

As live music rides the air, you can spend a summer’s day strolling from country to country, visiting fascinating people you may never get to meet otherwise.

Beauty Ngxongo of Zululand. Her woven baskets are featured in all the South African museums.

Food tents offer shade and a place to refuel with delicious fare from local restaurants, such as one of our faves, The Cowgirl, and many others. There’s also the Museum Hill Café situated alongside the market.

Food booths and shade umbrellas provide a welcoming refueling station.

The ripple effect from this event is testament to how art truly can change and save lives. Over a million lives have been positively impacted by the boost of funds the artists bring to their home communities. During one weekend in Santa Fe, most artists earn as much as ten times their entire annual income back home. So far, an estimated 16 million dollars has been generated from sales. Artists take home 90% of their earnings, which contributes to better living conditions, clean water, schools, medicines and agricultural supplies for their villages.

A beautiful face and artist.

For women to have earning power contributes to radical changes in their community in many villages, by winning them a voice in local politics. This enables them to work toward ending ancient traditions that inflict pain and hardship on the female population of their cultures.

Balinese hand-carved and painted ceremonial masks.

The Folk Art Market’s events usually begin on the second Friday of July with an Opening Party, and continue through the weekend with interesting lectures, concerts, movies and workshops held at various locales around town, including MOIFA, the Railyard Park, and the Lensic Performing Arts Center.

TICKETS

Tickets go on sale May 1st, online at: http://www.folkartalliance.org/markets/

See the year’s schedule of events at http://www.folkartmarket.org/coming/market-schedule/

LODGING

The International Folk Art Market is creating such a buzz that many collectors, enthusiasts, and the casually curious are booking their stays as far as six months to a year in advance. It isn’t unusual for Santa Fe hotels to be fully booked during this July week. See our list of favorite lodging options to find the right fit for you. If you’d like help finding the right place for your needs and budget, call me, or email Maria, at info@santafeselection.com (Santa Fe Selection Travel Guide) (505) 470-2991.

TRANSPORT

There are multiple options for transport to Museum Hill. If you drive, there are some parking areas surrounding the market, but it’s usually a bit of walk to get tot he market entrance. Some hotels have shuttle buses. There are free shuttle buses that run throughout the day all weekend from the Capitol Parking Lot in downtown Santa Fe. There’s also New Mexico Wine & Scenic Tours, owned by Cindy Capelli, who’ll arrange custom shuttles, whether you’re a guest in a hotel or vacation rental, or a local. Call Cindy at (505) 250-8943 with your questions and be sure to give at least a couple of days’ notice if you want to book a custom ride.

In 2015, the market will be held July 10th ,11th and 12th. Tickets are available online starting May 1^st, 2014 at http://www.folkartmarket.org/coming/tickets/, and thanks to it being a non-profit organization, a healthy portion of the ticket prices are tax-deductible.

A day or two at the Folk Art Market leaves you feeling as if you’ve taken a fun and easy walking tour of the world – without the eternally long flights and customs hassles!

For more on the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe go to: http://www.folkartmarket.org/

For more on the International Folk Art Museum go to: http://santafeselection.com/museums/museum-of-international-folk-art

For more on the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture go to: http://santafeselection.com/museums/museum-indian-arts-culture

For lodging recommendations go to: http://santafeselection.com/lodging

Loretto Chapel – Many Miracles on the Old Santa Fe Trail

Posted on December 17, 2013 by Maria Johnson

The Loretto Chapel, also known as Our Lady of Light, is well known for its “miraculous staircase,” but as I looked into its history in more detail, I noticed quite a few miracles that we can thank for its existence.

The Loretto Chapel ranks on a par with the St. Francis Cathedral as one of the City Different’s most beautiful structures steeped in Santa Fe history. French Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy was appointed the Santa Fe territory in 1850. He made the arduous journey from Paris to Santa Fe and was confronted by considerable resistance from the incumbent clergy in the area.

Bishop_Jean_Baptiste_Lamy. Photo: Palace of the Governors Archives.

His efforts to bring Catholicism to the residents included enticing teachers, priests, nuns and architects to Santa Fe at a time when cross-country and global travel was at its most treacherous. He appealed to many.

The Kentucky-based Sisters of Loretto Institute was among the first to respond to Lamy’s pleas for help. In 1852, seven brave Sisters undertook the perilous journey to New Mexico from Kentucky. The many dangers of covered wagon travel included Indian country, cholera, and bad weather. It is said that one Sister died of cholera, and one was so ill she had to return home.

Historic Map of the Santa Fe Trail and the Indian Country it traversed.

The remaining five Sisters completed the journey to arrive that same year. In 1853, the first school buildings were constructed and later that year, they opened the doors of the Loretto Academy to a handful of students.

Over the years, more Sisters arrived and The Academy grew to three hundred students before closing in the late 1960s.

Another of Bishop Lamy’s dreams was to build a cathedral in Santa Fe. He brought French architect Antoine Mouly and son Projectus all the way from France in 1870 to build what is now known as the St. Francis Cathedral.

View_of_Santa_Fe_from_Fort_Marcy_with_Saint_Francis_Cathedral_in_center_New_Mexico1887

Late 1800s. View from Fort Marcy of Santa Fe including St. Francis Cathedral. Photo: Palace of the Governors Archives.

During the Cathedral’s construction, Lamy suggested the Loretto Sisters take the opportunity to build a Chapel for the Academy. The cost of construction would be $30,000 (approximately $600,000 today). The Sisters persevered and managed to gather the funds by adding their personal inheritances to the donations the community contributed. The Chapel was built between the two academy buildings.

Loretto Academy Santa Fe circa1909. Photo: Palace of the Governors Archives. Bishop Lamy’s Carp Pond in the Foreground.

The design of the Loretto is based on Lamy’s favorite chapel in Paris, that of King Louis IX’s Sainte Chapelle. Having helped renovate Sainte Chapelle in the early 1800s, Mouly was able to bring the Gothic Revival style to the Loretto, making it the first of its kind to be built west of the Mississippi. With its vaulted ceilings and towering stone arches, it was a dramatic contrast to the soft curves of indigenous adobe churches.

The various materials used were brought from near and far. The beautiful stained-glass for the windows came all the way from Paris, enduring ocean, paddle-boat and covered wagon transport. (No bubble wrap in those days!) Construction began in 1873 and took five years to complete. At some point between 1877 and 1881, the infamous staircase was built by a mysterious stranger. Curiously, the choir loft had been built twenty-two feet above the main floor without any means of access, other than perhaps a shaky stepladder. After consultations with numerous carpenters, the bad news was that there would be no way for the Sisters to have a staircase built that wouldn’t impose on the limited seating area in the chapel.

The Sisters didn’t give up. They devoted a novena (nine days of prayer) to St. Joseph (the Patron Saint of carpenters). On the last day of prayer, a carpenter arrived with a donkey and a small toolbox looking for work. With a few rudimentary tools, he worked for six months to create a spectacular work of art that served both the purpose of elevation for the choir and minimal intrusion on the lower seating area. He then promptly vanished from Santa Fe and without payment! The sisters tried to find him to thank him, but despite their efforts, he was never seen again.

Simulation model of the completed Loretto staircase.

Loretto Staircase with the later addition of a railing.

Even though spiral staircases are no longer a novelty, I can’t help staring at this one for its beautiful qualities that no modern staircase I’ve seen can compete with. Originally without a railing, the stairs spin in a compact nautilus curve up twenty-two feet to the choir loft. Without the railing, I wouldn’t have wanted to be in the choir; vertigo is the first thing that leaps to mind. To this day, mysteries surround the staircase, from who the carpenter was, to the physics of how two complete 360-degree turns are held together with only wooden pegs, not nails or glue, and no visible means of support. And the wood used is apparently extinct. The mysteries have been a source of intrigue for many media sources, among them “Unsolved Mysteries,” “Ripley’s Believe It Or Not,” “National Geographic,” and a 1998 television movie starring Barbara Hershey called “The Staircase.”

By 1968, the Academy had ceased to exist, and the Chapel was deconsecrated as a formal place of worship. The entire complex of Academy buildings, Chapel included, was put up for sale. By 1971, they had sat essentially abandoned and in disrepair for over three years. The future was looking bleak for this once-thriving chapel. A city permit was issued for the demolition of the academy buildings.

Again, just in time, and as if answering a prayer, in 1971 a buyer arrived. This time we know their name, and I’m sure the Kirkpatrick family knows how grateful we are to them. They persevered through a lengthy purchase process that took upwards of a year, to finally buy the buildings.

The Kirkpatricks invested in the renovation of the Chapel, and it has been a family-run museum and event space ever since. The Academy buildings were demolished and The Inn and Spa at Loretto now occupies the majority of the rest of the city block. There is a garden and Luminaria Restaurant’s patio where one of the Academy buildings once stood.

Since its purchase in the early 70s, the Chapel has become a prominent cornerstone in the community. Each year, Loretto Chapel welcomes hundreds of weddings, special events, and performances.

For over 30 years, one of the most popular events is the Santa Fe Pro Musica Baroque Christmas Concert Series held each year during Christmas week. The large thirty-piece orchestra is trimmed to an eight or nine-piece ensemble for this event. The intimate setting and resounding acoustics make for a sweet, Christmas sound as they perform such masters as Handel, Molter, Purcell and traditional Carols. (Singing along is encouraged.) The Baroque Christmas Series has become a Holiday tradition for many locals and travelers.

Santa Fe Pro Musica Baroque Christmas Ensemble.

Baroque Christmas runs December 20^th through December 24^th at 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. each evening. The Santa Fe Pro Musica Orchestra performs at many locations around Santa Fe from mid-September to mid-April. If you miss Baroque Christmas, there’s also the Baroque Holy Week Concert Series in March, 28^th, 29^th at 7.30 p.m and 30^th at 6 p.m. Tickets sell out in advance, so contact them at (505) 988-4640 to buy yours.

The Kirkpatrick family continue to oversee and manage the Chapel museum and event space, preserving its beauty and mystery for all to visit for a mere $3 donation. It is open daily with the exception of Christmas Day and perhaps for a few hours for a wedding or event.

The Chapel is also a point of origin for one of the best, longest-running tour companies in Santa Fe, the Loretto Line Tours. They offer educational and fun open tram tours of the historic downtown area, including Museum Hill. Tours run seasonally from around mid-March to late October depending on weather.

After researching the people and the stories behind the Chapel, and its surrounding buildings that we lost, I appreciate the Loretto even more. Not only for its famous “miracles,” but for the little-known ones too, and how it stands as testament to the determination of our predecessors, the extreme adverse conditions they encountered, their monumental undertakings, and the enduring beauty they left behind.

For more information on The Loretto Chapel go to: http://santafeselection.com/museums/loretto-chapel

For more information on The Loretto Line Tours go to: http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/loretto-line-tours

For more information on Santa Fe Pro Musica go to: http://santafeselection.com/entertainment/santa-fe-pro-musica

Christmas – Santa Fe Style

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Santa Fe wears Christmas so well. From Thanksgiving through New Year’s, its adobe parapets lined with farolitos, cedar and piñon burning in fireplaces, and the abundance of sweet-smelling spruce trees create an air of warmth and comfort against the backdrop of snow-capped Santa Fe Baldy. The Holiday nostalgia is easily rendered along Canyon Road as it offers up its historic sidewalks and alleyways to the paper and candle farolitos, which guide the way for hundreds of people as they walk and sing Carols on Christmas Eve.

Canyon Road Christmas Eve. Photo courtesy of Katharine Egli.

The air may be cold, but the small bonfires, hot toddies and friends keep the heart warm, and Christmas past and present merge in the twilight.

Luminaria (bonfire). Photo: Canyon Road Merchants Assoc.

A little side note: There is an age-old discourse on the proper use of the words “farolito” and “luminaria” in New Mexico. The word “farolito” means little lantern, and is applied to the small votive candles in the paper bags that line the streets, and rooftops.

Canyon Road Farolitos. Photo Courtesy of Katharine Egli.

“Luminaria” means little bonfire, which refers to the little bonfires on the streets, and has also sometimes been applied to the electric lights in bags. That said, the terms are often used interchangeably, which remains a source of continual, good-humored debate among locals. (Please drop a comment below if you can offer any further insight – let’s keep the traditional debate going.)

Every year, Santa Fe begins its Christmas anticipation the day after Thanksgiving. People gather around 4 p.m. to watch as a vintage fire truck parades Santa and Mrs. Claus around the Plaza, eventually stopping to greet everyone.

Kids clamor to give Santa their Christmas wish lists, and after dark, (usually around 6 p.m.), the brilliant display of Christmas decorations light up the Plaza.

Santa Fe Plaza Lighting

The traditional pick-up point for Santa and Mrs. Claus has always been The Shop – A Christmas Store just a few steps from the Plaza on East Palace Avenue. Owned and operated by locals Rick and Janice Griego, The Shop is one of the oldest year-round Christmas and holiday ornament stores in the United States. They also help the city with the event decorations each year.

Santa and Mrs Claus outside The Shop

Mr & Mrs Claus beside the vintage fire truck.

The Shop is a local and visitor favorite, stocked to the gills with EVERYTHING Christmas you’d expect and a ton more your imagination hasn’t thought of yet.

Rick Griego had no idea that he would graduate from college to eventually become the owner of a most successful Christmas shop downtown. Rick was born and raised in Santa Fe, in an area known as “the Barrio” or old neighborhood about ten blocks west of the Plaza. He attended Our Lady of Guadalupe, St. Michael’s High School and New Mexico State University.

While in college, he met Janice Doyle, an Albuquerque native. They both graduated in 1983, Janice with a degree in Business, and Rick with with a double major in Criminal Justice and Government. Rick recalls, “It was during the Reagan administration and jobs were scarce, leaving many graduates either jobless or overqualified for minimum wage employment.”

That summer, Rick returned home to Santa Fe to determine his next move toward a career in law. A friend of the Griego family introduced Rick to Ed Berry, the original owner of The Shop. Ed had opened the store in 1977. It was originally an antique store with a corner dedicated to Christmas ornaments by local artists. By 1983, Ed was in need of extra part-time help during the busy summer months. Rick was hired on the spot and as time ticked by, he stayed on. He soon became full-time, and then store manager. In 1989, Rick and Janice married and when Ed retired in 2002, they bought the store and have kept it running beautifully. In 2014, it will celebrate its 37th year!

The Shop also carries the largest stock of holiday lights for every occasion, including Easter and Halloween. Back in the early 1980s, it became the original birthplace of the now-world-famous chile lights we see in strands and ristras everywhere at all times of year.

Shepherd, King and Cross Clay Ornaments by Jil Gurule, and Chile Lights

Rick remembers Ed coming up with the idea. When some light strands they ordered kept losing their covers, Ed decided to pop the stems off a chile ornament and put them onto the light strands instead “et voila!”

“Everyone in the family was enlisted to put chiles on the strands,” said Rick, laughing. “We spent hours and hours doing it, and every spare minute in the shop. We’d even take them home and spend evenings putting the little chiles on the lights while watching TV.” Once Rick and Janice bought the store, they asked the manufacturer for a quote to make the chile lights, and the cost was little more than it was costing already. From then on, the lights arrived complete with chiles installed. They are now one of the biggest sellers in the store.

Ristra of Chile Lights

The extensive variety of novelty-themed lights includes roses, SpongeBob, butterflies, birds, Snoopy, cupcakes, the classic gingerbread men, and even those psychedelic-looking bubble lights that you can’t find just anywhere.

In addition to the traditional and modern-themed ornaments from well-known makers around the globe, Rick and Janice have been working for years with as many as thirty-two local artists who create unique decorations just for The Shop.

Ceramic ornaments by Isleta Pueblo artist Kimo De Cora.

For as little as a dollar and up to many hundreds, there is a terrific array of artworks to choose from. While the traditional arrangements remain popular, the special works by the local artists that include Southwest themes and iconic images are especially unique and have grown to become popular collectors items.

Clay Ornaments by Santa Fe artist Sue Tucker

Kathy Peña is a local artist who creates amazingly detailed, themed Santas. All are adorned with her hand-made details, from the clothing to the items each Santa carries. There’s the Mexican Pancho Claus, a Cowboy Claus, and Native American Claus.

Kathy Peña-Pancho Claus

She sculpts the faces from clay and paints them by hand and they have glass dolls’ eyes. On Pancho Claus, the hat is the only thing that’s bought. It took a long time to find something to fit the right scale, and at last Kathy’s daughter found the perfect fit in Mexico. No two are alike – so for only $140, your Santa is an original.

Kathy Peña-Cowboy and Native American Santa

Another very talented artist is Jil Gurule. “She’s our premier artist,” Rick says, “we’ve worked with Jil for so long, she’s part of the family. She has become an incredible artist over the years.”

Jil Gurule – Mud Head

Jil works in various media. She makes beautiful clay Mud Head figures and a variety of lovely ornaments. “The artists’ creativity never ceases to amaze me,” Rick says. “They always manage to surprise me with their imaginations and incredible talent.”

Jil Gurule – Our Lady of Guadalupe

“I never imagined I would graduate college and end up still here in Santa Fe at The Shop after all these years, but there’s nothing like living here and working downtown so close to the plaza,” says Rick, “I think the best thing about Santa Fe is its people, whether they live here, or are passing through. When you combine the people, the history, the mountains and the culture here, there’s no place like it.”

Year-round, Rick and Janice welcome hundreds of customers a day, and many return year after year to see what’s new from the artists showing in The Shop’s Christmas Wonderland. “It is a great place to work,” said Janice, “It’s a happy place. Every day we get to meet people from all over the world. It’s always great fun to see new faces and revisit with those who come back year after year. ”

Rick and Janice Griego and Kathy Peña’s Native American Santa!

The Shop is a family-run labor of love. They are open almost 365 days a year, closing only for Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day. They close early on Christmas Eve. The rest of the year, their doors are open and the family business bustles like Santa’s workshop, with Rick, Janice, Rick’s sister Debbie, and nephew Cody taking turns at the helm.

For more information on The Shop call (505) 983-4823 or go to: http://santafeselection.com/unique-shops/the-shop-a-christmas-store

Additional Holiday Events For You to Enjoy:

Christmas at the Palace

When: Dec 11, 2015. 5:30 PM to 8:00 PM. Free Event.
Where: New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors at 105 W. Palace Avenue.

Now, in its 30th year, this Christmas favorite brings folks together in true holiday spirit, for a visit from Santa and Mrs. Claus, hot cider, live music, and entertainment – in the legendary magic of the Palace of the Governors. (The History Museum and Palace of the Governors will close early at 3 p.m. to prepare.) Enter through the Palace entrance at 105 West Palace Ave. The History Museum will remain closed in the evening.

Las Posadas

When: December 13, 2015. 5.30 p.m – 7.00 p.m. Free Event.

Where: The Santa Fe Plaza and the Palace of the Governors Courtyard

The New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors hosts the long-held Hispanic tradition called Las Posadas. This version recreates Mary and Joseph’s search for a place to give birth to the Baby Jesus – and throws in a few devils for good measure. The annual candle-lit procession of Las Posadas travels around the Santa Fe Plaza and concludes in the Palace Courtyard. Stay for carols in the Palace Courtyard, along with cookies and refreshments. Free and open to the public.

The Santa Fe Botanical Garden – GLOW Event.

When: Starting December 3, 2015 and running through January 2, 2016, Thursdays – Saturdays 5 – 8pm. Last entry at 7.30pm.

Where: Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill.

Experience a festive light display, meet Santa, enjoy food and hot toddies. Click here for details, location map and ticket prices.

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On the Chocolate Trail with C.G. Higgins

Posted on October 30, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Chocolate being one of my favorite things in the world, it makes me happy that Santa Fe is home to some of the nation’s best chocolatiers and confectioners. The well-known Santa Fe Chocolate Trail holds two locations where you can find authentic hand-made confections by chocolate artisan C. G. Higgins – known to most as Chuck. Recently, Chuck was able to take a little time out of his busy schedule to meet with me, and I took the opportunity to get to know a little more about the man and the candy.

Chuck had his first experience with a life-changing, home-made confection at the ripe ole’ age of twelve. “It was the Sixties. I was at an amusement park at Lake Okoboji, in Iowa,” he says, “There was a family-owned candy shop that sold amazing, truly home-made nut rolls. It was like an epiphany for me. I haven’t been the same since,” he laughs.

Though his initial career was in sales at a major corporation, it was merely a temporary diversion from his true passion. He remained close to the candy makers he’d met at the Amusement Park and learned a lot from them about making confections.

In 1981, he kicked off his candy-making career with his own hand-made peanut rolls at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival.

C.G Higgins’ Handmade Peanut Rolls

The Minnesota Renaissance Festival is the largest of its kind in the United States, averaging an annual attendance of 300,000. Chuck worked with stone-masons to build the two-story stone tower of a shop that he called the Hand Maid Sweet Shoppe. He called his confections The King’s Nuts, and quickly became the top-selling independent vendor. “The biggest problem we had was keeping up with production. We had to make them on site. We had no off-site kitchen,” recalls Chuck.

The next year, his work with the major corporation ended due to downsizing, which gave him the opportunity to focus on his passion full-time. Chuck moved into vending at state fairs and other special events around the country, taking him from Miami to Canada and everywhere in between.

He added Caramel Apples in a Dish to his menu, which soon became his biggest seller at fairs; eight slices of juicy apple smothered in homemade caramel sauce. His freshly-made caramel apples were a hit and continue to be a popular item during the fall season here in Santa Fe. Many folks like to serve them at their Halloween parties.

It was 1993 when a friend asked Chuck why he hadn’t sold at the New Mexico State Fair yet. “Quite frankly,” Chuck says, “I had never thought about it.” There happened to be a last-minute opening for a stand, and Chuck took it. “The response was overwhelming! People stood in line for forty-five minutes to buy the caramel apples. The folks went ballistic over them. We eventually became the third, overall, top seller at the Fair, and had to have three cash registers to cover the demand.”

At the time, Chuck’s headquarters were in New Orleans. For the seventeen-day-long New Mexico State Fair, he had to transport nearly three tons of caramel to Albuquerque by air-freight. He laughs, “It was only logical to move here.”

Chuck eventually moved to Santa Fe in 2001 to be with his partner Donald. They bought, remodeled and opened the first C.G. Higgins store on Ninita Street, at the corner of St. Francis Drive. He continued to sell at the New Mexico State Fair each year.

Chuck and Don celebrating the opening of the 130 Lincoln Avenue shop.

In 2011, he won the First-Place Scovie Award in two categories at the International Fiery Foods competition: The Unique Snack with his Chile-Pecan Brittle, and the Snack-Popcorn category with his New Mexico Chile Caramel Corn. Chuck uses red and green chile in each. They were noted for their concentrated chile flavor without too much of the kicking heat. It was the Chile Pecan Brittle that put Chuck on the Food Channel Network show, Road Tasted with the Neely’s.

As the success of his confection sensations continue, so do Chuck’s ideas for expanding his line. He now offers an extensive variety of rich and exotic truffles, nut brittles, fudge, and sipping chocolates made by hand from real chocolate, (not cocoa powder) vanilla beans and roasted almonds.

2013 sees Chuck’s 20th anniversary at the N.M State Fair, and he has decided to make it his final appearance there as a vendor. But never fear, his enthusiasm is still in its prime. “It’s been my passion for almost thirty-five years,” he says, “Now, I’ve decided to put my energies into my new shop location on Lincoln Avenue, and stay planted in Santa Fe.”

Chocolate Display Cases at Lincoln Ave

The Lincoln Avenue shop sits like an enticingly wrapped confection itself, smack in the middle of the downtown historic district, literally steps from the Plaza.

130 Lincoln Avenue location

It opened its doors in July 2013, to a warm welcome by the community. It is a popular stop for those who work at neighboring businesses – and for strolling locals and travelers who are happy to take a moment’s respite and revive with a shot of chocolate love from sipping chocolates, truffles or desserts.

Higgins’ at 130 Lincoln Avenue.

The Lincoln Avenue location also serves Taos Cow Ice Cream, a selection of cakes and pastries, and such morning starters as scrumptious, freshly-baked cinnamon rolls to go with your coffee.

The Ninita Street location houses the kitchen and the first cafe.

At the Corner of St. Francis and Ninita Street. 2 blocks north of Cerrillos Road.

It will remain the hive of industry for Chuck, where all his confections are hand-made – and guests are always welcome.

Ninita Street C.G. Higgins.

If you’re planning ahead, or live out of town and are thinking of giving special Santa Fe confections as gifts for the upcoming Holiday season, you can contact Chuck, or access his website by going to: http://santafeselection.com/chocolate/c-g-higgins-confections

Feed Your Fetish at KESHI-The Zuni Connection

Posted on October 21, 2013 by Maria Johnson

The origins of the noun fetish stem from the17th-century Portuguese word feitiço meaning “charm or sorcery,” and the Latin word facticius meaning “made by art.” In Native American culture, it represents a found rock or pebble that resembles an animal, which may be carved to enhance the image, and imbued with a spiritual power or “medicine.” Native Americans have carried these talismans for more than a thousand years. Fetishes have served as empowering reminders of the human connection to nature and to those qualities the animal reflects, such as agility, perseverance, independence, and survival.

Buffalo Fetishes – Salvador Romero

Mountain lion medicine reminds us to establish healthy boundaries and be a good example to others.

A bear (the most sacred fetish for the Zuni) represents healing, protection, strength, and mothering.

Lapis Bear – Lynn Quam

There is no limit to the talisman forms that will offer its bearer that extra “magic,” or sense of whimsy that brings a smile. The fetish keeps up with the world’s changes and you can find many modern influences in the art form.

Skateboarding Turtle – Brennette Epaloose

Of all the Native American tribes, the Zuñi are the most widely known today for their outstanding quality of fetish art and craftsmanship.

The Zuñi Tribe is distinct in many ways. Zuñi Pueblo is the largest in New Mexico, comprising about 450,000 acres overall, which includes land holdings in Arizona.

Their native language is unique and bears no relationship to any other language in the world. Throughout the challenges of wars, invasions, and outside religious influences, the Zuñi have remained steadfastly devoted to their cultural and religious traditions. There are an estimated 12,000 Zuñi people, and nearly half of the Pueblo population lives below the poverty line.

The Zuñi Pueblo is located 150 miles west of Albuquerque and 35 miles south of Gallup in a valley of rolling hills and glorious mesas.

Creating a bridge between the Zuñi artists and the rest of the world is a small Santa Fe shop called Keshi: The Zuñi Connection. (Keshi, pronounced kay-SHE is the traditional greeting of the Zuñi, meaning “Welcome.”) The stewards of the Keshi shop are Robin Dunlap and her daughter Bronwyn Fox-Bern.

In 1979, Robin was living in Santa Fe and working as a substitute teacher. She went to the local Education Department in search of a more fulfilling situation and asked whether they had a pool of qualified teachers that could be called upon by a community in need. The response was, “No.” Robin suggested they start one and left them her name and number. She returned home that day to a ringing phone. The Zuñi Public Schools were in need of a sixth grade teacher. Two weeks later, Robin packed up her nine-year-old daughter Bronwyn and moved to Zuñi.

Bronwyn and Robin

For two and a half years Robin and Bronwyn lived on the reservation. Robin recalls, “It was the best teaching experience I ever had.”

Bronwyn was the only “melika” child in her class and she was made to feel very welcome by the Zuni Children. She remembers, “The word for ‘white’ in Zuni is ‘melika.’ It’s easy to remember because it sounds like ‘milk’.”

She was also welcomed into sacred Pueblo ceremonies and events. “It wasn’t unusual for there to be a knock at the door at 10 o’clock at night by a group of friends inviting me to a special ceremony. I’m so glad I was old enough to be able to process what a privilege it was to be included.”

In 1981, Robin and a small group of Zuñi artists and school teachers started an artists’ co-op to be located in the state’s capital, so that Zuñi artists would have their own representation outside the reservation. Items were to be stocked on a consignment basis, and the artists would be paid their full asking price for each piece. A shop manager was hired and Robin stayed on the reservation. She taught by day, and at night she would visit artists’ houses on the Pueblo and help them consign their art. Eventually, a healthy inventory was developed.

Unfortunately, after a couple of years in operation, the shop manager’s lack of ethics left the artists unpaid for their work and the books a mess. The co-op group asked Robin to take over the shop, and so she and Bronwyn moved back to Santa Fe. Robin spent a few years clearing up the books, mending relationships, and ensuring all the artists were paid their asking price for their work.

For over 32 years, Keshi: The Zuñi Connection has been under the careful stewardship of Robin and Bronwyn. Bronwyn would work in the shop during summer breaks. After a number of years moving around the globe, and earning her degree in American Cultural Studies, she eventually settled in as manager in 1999. Today, Keshi represents the work of over 1000 Native American artists, 95% of whom are Zuñi.

The 800-square-foot store is one of my favorites in Santa Fe. It stands alone amid the moat of a city parking lot on Don Gaspar Street, in the heart of historic Santa Fe, just two blocks from the plaza.

The space is filled to the brim, housing one of the world’s largest Zuñi fetish collections. They also carry a variety of art, pottery and jewelry. The Zuñi are also renowned for their exquisite “petit point” jewelry. Robin told me that authentic petit point is fast becoming a rarity, and that buyers need to beware of the many forgeries that exist.

Petit-point Zuni Jewelry

Inlaid Vintage Cuff Bracelets- Ellen Quandalacey – Zuni

The extensive displays, coupled with the knowledgeable, friendly staff, make Keshi a place that offers you a sense of authentic connection and closeness to a deeply rooted spiritual culture and artistic heritage.

DON’T FORGET TO FEED YOUR FETISH!!

No, I don’t mean go out and buy a closet full of shoes. When you buy a fetish from Keshi, you’ll be reminded that Native cultures consider an important way to honor its power is to feed it.

Picasso Marble Bear Fetish – Eldred Quam – Zuni

Corn is a vital staple in Native American culture, and so each fetish comes complete with its own little bag of blue corn meal. Sprinkle the meal on and around your fetish to ensure it is well fed, and it will care for you in return.

For decades, the fetish has been a popular icon around the world. Attempts to pass off items made in China, Taiwan and elsewhere as the authentic article are rampant today. Robin and Bronwyn are happy to enlighten their customers on what constitutes authentic work. Rest assured, everything in Keshi is authentically Native American-made.

Prices for genuine fetishes can be as low as $10 and range up to many thousands. Fakes are no less expensive than the genuine article, which only serves to deprive the Native people of their just reward for their work, and the unsuspecting consumer of authentic Native art.

I love giving fetishes as gifts to friends and family. They represent that old adage, “good things come in small packages.” Though some of them may be as small as a dime, they are beautifully crafted from a multitude of rocks and gems, and many are intricately inlaid with beautiful designs. Whether large or small, each carries with it a special meaning, which makes them the ideal gift for anyone.

Frog Fetish in jet with inlay detail – Emery Boone

Bear with Fish and Fish with Bear – Salvador Romero

Native American comedian and comic strip artist Ricardo Lee Caté is also featuring his works at Keshi. Caté is of the Kewa tribe and is well known in New Mexico for his cartoon comic strips in the Santa Fe New Mexican newspaper called “Without Reservations”.

It is well worth a visit to Keshi any time. They are open 7 days a week, Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. and Sunday 11a.m. – 5p.m. For more information on Keshi: The Zuni Connection go to: http://santafeselection.com/unique-shops/keshi-the-zuni-connection or call (505) 989 8728.

Day Trip to Salman Raspberry Ranch

Posted on October 3, 2013 by Maria Johnson

From mid-to-late August and through October (until the first crippling frost) is prime pickin’ season at Salman Raspberry Ranch! And it makes for a perfect, easy day trip, only an hour and twenty minute drive from downtown Santa Fe, north through Las Vegas to La Cueva. They are also within easy reach of Taos, and the Enchanted Circle Scenic Route.

There’s nothing better than a drive along empty, gently undulating roads under crystal-clear New Mexico skies to scrub away the mental sludge from the work week.

En route along I 25 north to Las Vegas

Add some beautiful, unusual landscapes and an hour or so of raspberry pickin’, and you’ll feel you’ve escaped all responsibilities and time-traveled to childhood.

Every fall season from about late August to around the end of October, the Salman Raspberry Ranch fields are burgeoning with ripe, juicy berries.

For many New Mexicans, it is a family tradition to load up the car with the kids and the dog and head to La Cueva to harvest berries to last them through the winter – if they don’t eat them all during the picking.

In the Salman Ranch Store there’s a wide range of delicious culinary products from jams to vinegars, fudges, chocolates and sauces made from the year’s harvest of raspberries, blackberries, and honey. Some also include New Mexico chiles for a scrumptious union to delight the taste buds. In the store (and online) they also offer a selection of gift baskets full of goodies; a great idea to take home, or give as gifts. It’s very convenient for travelers and out of state residents that they ship the baskets for free anywhere in the U.S.

Across the quiet street sits the cafe. Menu items include tamales, hot dogs, frito pies, barbecue pulled pork sandwiches, and don’t forget the amazing soft ice cream sundaes!

I opted to sit in the shade alongside the babbling acequia with a delicious, freshly-brewed raspberry iced tea.

Opposite the cafe are the Salman Ranch Gardens. An adobe wall encircles the gardens, where you can also sit and enjoy a picnic amid lush green grass, blooming wildflowers and majestic trees.

In 1851, Vicente Romero, a sheep farmer, bought the ranch land, 32,000 acres in all, which was originally apportioned to several grantees of the Mora Land Grant by Governor Albino Perez in 1835. Local legend says Romero slept in caves while tending his sheep and so named the area La Cueva. By the 1870s, many of the buildings that exist today were completed: The Mission Church of San Rafael, built by priests of Bishop Lamy’s order, the ranch house and mercantile store, and the mill, which served Fort Union and surrounding areas with flour and electricity, up until 1949.

Salman Ranch Old Mill

Romero’s son Rafael managed the ranch after his father’s death. The ranch was owed a lot of money by its debtors, including the government, and eventually, Rafael had to sell off portions of the ranch in order to stay afloat.

The Romero Ranch House 1860s. Image courtesy of Salman Raspberry Ranch

At the end of WWII, Colonel William Salman, who was then director of the Port of Le Havre, (the major landing site after D-Day) was in search of a safe sanctuary for his young family.

William Salman and daughter Lynn

During the war, many of his immediate family had been killed in the death camps of the Third Reich. Salman and his wife Frances found the ideal refuge in La Cueva. They moved to the ranch in 1945, and by 1950 Salman had restored the 32,000 acres to its original Romero parcel.

Almost seventy years later, the Salman family still own and run the ranch, managed by daughter Frances.

The original 8,000-square-foot Romero-Salman ranch house still stands proudly overlooking the raspberry fields.

The entire area is picturesque. I wondered around for a long time snapping photos. It’s an ideal place for artists and photographers to gather inspiration.

Lawrence Espinoza has worked on the ranch for 32 years, and talking to him, you can tell he loves it. He’ll likely be at the stall to hand out pots for you to fill up with berries. When the fields are closed he works at helping maintain and cultivate the ranch. He told me about the many varieties of berries they grow, with names that stir the imagination, like Autumn Britain, Red Wing, Blue Wing, Polena, Carolina, Heritage and Polka.

They are all slightly different in shade and flavor and he tells me, “Be sure to pick them right. You don’t pick the stem, only the berry. It’ll slip off the stem like a little hat. If you want to make jam, pick the darker more ripe ones, and if you want to eat the fruit fresh, they’re all good!”

Picking hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10am to 4pm until an autumn hard frost nips that activity in the bud. Lawrence said that he had heard there may not be a hard enough frost to interfere with the crop this year until late October. But this is New Mexico, so you never know. It’s best to jump on it while you can.

Sampling the crop.

A friend of mine went last weekend and picked six pounds of berries! She’s lived in Santa Fe for years and hadn’t known about Salman Ranch until I told her, and now she can’t get enough. This is testament to how much there is to discover in this state. There’s always something new to explore, no matter how long you’ve lived here. She says she’s heading back this weekend too. At only $6 a pound, why not? It is addictive when the fruit is so good and the place is so beautiful that the whole family loves it there.

Picnicking by the fields

It is a good idea to allocate the entire day to a visit to Salman Ranch. The drive is easy and fun as it takes you through the town of Las Vegas and along County Road 518 toward Mora. You can stop off in Las Vegas and check out the historic plaza area too, before heading home.

Hours of operation for Salman Ranch store, cafe, fields and nursery vary throughout the year. So be sure to check their website for updated information on hours and products, and the latest on the goings-on around the ranch. Or call 1 866-281-1515

Enjoy!

Santa Fe Selection

The Travelers' Local Connection & Guide to the Best of Santa Fe

Author Archives: Maria Johnson

About Maria Johnson

A Visit Through Santa Fe History

Santa Fe’s Own Distillery Row: Santa Fe Spirits

Santa Fe Mountain Adventures – A Love Story

Fly Fishing Year-Round in Northern New Mexico

Tour the World at The International Folk Art Market – Santa Fe

Loretto Chapel – Many Miracles on the Old Santa Fe Trail

Christmas – Santa Fe Style

On the Chocolate Trail with C.G. Higgins

Feed Your Fetish at KESHI-The Zuni Connection

Day Trip to Salman Raspberry Ranch

About Maria Johnson

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