About Maria Johnson

I was born on the northwest coast of England. I first arrived in Santa Fe in 1984. I had traveled extensively for many years as a fashion model, and lived in many amazing places; New York, Paris, London, L.A. I was so taken by the diverse culture, history, landscape, weather and lifestyle of Santa Fe that I decided to make it my home. I finally moved here permanently in 1990. I feel Santa Fe is my true home and I'm so glad that I have been able to live in this enchanted place for so many years. In 2010, I began Santa Fe Selection, the free mobile and online guide to the authentic Santa Fe experience. It is aimed at helping guide travelers to the businesses and experiences that I believe make Santa Fe unique. I hope you're able to visit here someday. There really is no place like it. And if you like my blog, please comment. I am available to help you with your questions about your trip here. Feel free to comment on my blog or contact me directly at info@santafeselection.com or (505) 470-2991. I look forward to hearing from you. Best Wishes, Maria Johnson.

The Maria Martinez Living Heritage at San Ildefonso Pueblo

Posted on April 20, 2013 by Maria Johnson

San Ildefonso Pueblo is a short and easy 25-30 minute drive north of Santa Fe. The Native Tewa name of Po Woh Geh Oweenge means “Where the Water Cuts Through.” It is home to many Native American artists but the names of Maria and Julian Martinez are two of the most famous.

San Ildefonso Historic Marker and Black Mesa

Maria Montoya Martinez and Julian Martinez were two of the most highly acclaimed potters in the Southwest. They became known throughout the world for their highly polished, black on black and polychrome ceramics.

Julian and Maria Martinez

Today, their legacy lives on, not only in many collections and museum exhibits around the world, but in the art of the many generations of direct descendants they left behind. A leader of the tradition is Cavan Gonzales, Maria and Julian’s great-great-grandson, and a highly acclaimed, award-winning potter in his own right.

His Tewa name is Tse-Whang meaning “Eagle Tail,” and since he was five years old he has been winning awards in art shows and museum exhibits across the nation. In the family’s Pueblo gallery, Sunbeam Indian Arts, there’s a large, deep basket spilling over with award ribbons that members of this artistic family have won over the decades.

Like his ancestors, Cavan specializes in polychrome, black on black and black on red pottery with intricately painted motifs. He is also an established painter, with works placed in the Kennedy Center in Washington D.C, and at the New Mexico State Capital in Santa Fe. Each August, collectors travel from all over the world to buy his latest creations at the famous S.W.A.I.A. Indian Market week (August 12 -18th, 2013). This year will be no exception. Cavan has been hard at work all winter to bring a new collection into existence.

Avanyu (Water Serpent) Polychrome Jar

This large pot is the Avanyu (Water Serpent) Jar, and is inlaid with turquoise. The Avanyu symbolizes the importance of water to the Pueblo people. The head represents the flowing of water down an arroyo or stream, the tail marks the ripples it creates. The tongue is the symbol of the lightning of a thunderstorm, and thunderclouds are above the curves of the serpent.

Cavan prefers to work in silence and solitude. It is a deeply meditative practice that requires a lot of presence and connection with the clay. I asked how long it takes to finish a piece and he said, “The pot determines how long it needs. Sometimes it can take many months or as much as a year before it lets me know it is ready.”

On this occasion, he demonstrates the slip coat process for me. Dipping a cloth into the bright red slip, he carefully glides it across the vessel’s thirsty surface.

It is clear that pottery making is a practice of devotion for Cavan. His mother Barbara Gonzales (Tahn-Moo-Whe, Sunbeam), agrees, “Many people think we make lots and lots of pots at a time just so we can sell them, but that’s not how it works.” Barbara is Maria Martinez’s great-granddaughter. She is well-known for her beautiful, award-winning “swish pots”. The enclosed saucers hold unique stones and lightweight mementos that when stirred create a swishing sound.

Cavan gathers his own clay twice a year from the hills of the San Ildefonso reservation. This spring he’ll collect “after the winds and before the rains.” He takes the time to sift the earth at the collection site, and later he mixes it with water and the volcanic ash he has collected, to perfect its consistency. The diverse colors of the earth provide different tones of slip and paint for the designs.

Pink clay dirt, white volcanic ash and a polishing stone.

Finding the right size, weight and surface smoothness of the polishing stone is also important. Cavan polishes the new slip surface to a brilliant shine.

Polishing the jar

And the blade of a yucca plant is transformed into a fine paintbrush. Its outer layer is cut away at the tip to expose the brush-like interior fibers. It takes a very steady hand to paint such intricate and exacting motifs.

Demonstrating the yucca blade paint brush

In a corner of the Sunbeam Gallery, the family have a case dedicated to Maria and Julian. Photos, pots, books and memorabilia remind all visitors of the importance of the family’s heritage.

Cavan remembers his great-great-grandmother very clearly. He loved to watch her work. He was eleven years old when Maria passed away in 1980; she was 99. Barbara remembers her great-grandmother’s personality too and says, “She had a great wit and sense of humor.”

Maria’s old adobe home sits abandoned just down the road from the Gallery.

Sunbeam Indian Arts Gallery is in the family compound with convenient access from the main road off the highway, and spacious parking.

Sunbeam Compound Entrance

It is the first sign you see just before you enter the village. Cavan’s father Robert runs the gallery and is a wealth of information on the family and its history.

Sunbeam Indian Arts is filled with beautiful work by all members of this extraordinary family tree, all the way to Cavan’s four-year-old daughter. Visitors are welcome at the Gallery every day from 10am to 5pm (except Feast Days, Christmas and Thanksgiving Holidays). Cavan and Barbara are also available for custom lectures of their work and heritage, by appointment only. Contact Robert and Barbara for rate information at (505) 455-7202.

It is an easy and beautiful scenic drive out of Santa Fe along Highway 84/285 north 15 miles, to the state road 502 exit (direction Los Alamos). Just 5.5 miles further to the San ldefonso Pueblo sign on the right.

Anyone looking for an authentic cultural experience and genuine works of Native American art would enjoy visiting the living history at Sunbeam Indian Arts.

For more information on Cavan Gonzales and the Sunbeam Indian Arts Family, call: (505) 455 7202 or go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/galleries/sunbeam-indian-arts

What: See the New Exhibition on The Life of Maria Martinez
When: Sunday, April 28th, 2013 1:00pm- 4:00pm
Where: Millicent Rogers Museum Taos.
Cavan and Barbara Gonzales will be present. Here’s a map to the museum.
http://www.santafeselection.com/map.php?d=16&c=173&v=2226

San Ildefonso Pueblo Information:

The Pueblo Visitor Center is open 8am-5pm, and sits just a few hundred feet past the road to the gallery. Keep in mind that once in the Pueblo village, driving is not permitted. Visitors may sign in and tour the area on foot. There is a $10 per car fee. If you’re in a bus or van the fee is $25 per vehicle, plus 50 cents per passenger. There’s a camera fee of $10 also. Other fees apply if you’re sketching or taking video. To reach the Visitor Center call: (505) 455-3549.

Ghost Ranch Revisited

Posted on April 12, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Although Ghost Ranch has been open to the public as a source of recreation for local communities and travelers since the early1900s, there are still many people, both locals and visitors, who don’t know about all it has to offer. It has been known as Georgia O’Keeffe Country for decades, but the beloved artist owned only a tiny portion of the vast 21,000 acres of varied and beautiful terrain. Its colorful Chinle rock formations and mesas are rich in history, dating back to the Triassic period (210 million years ago) when dinosaurs roamed the earth and New Mexico, along with the rest of the U.S., was located near the equator. The sweltering, humid, swampy landscape was home to the Coelophysis (Seel-oh-FY-sis) and other species of small carnivorous dinosaur.

Coelophysis Skull

There are two small museums on the property, one dedicated to the archeology of the area, the other to its paleontology. Paleontologists worldwide know Ghost Ranch to be one of the richest dinosaur quarries in the world. There was a “plate” of bones uncovered below Kitchen Mesa, just a short walk from the main buildings. Numerous skeletal remains were unearthed. Crushed together, it’s a jigsaw puzzle of bones, as if a flood or earthquake had caught a herd off-guard and trapped them for all time in the soft, pink rock.

Below Kitchen Mesa where a large number of dinosaur bones were unearthed

First known as Rancho de los Brujos (Ranch of the Witches), the homestead of Ghost Ranch has a wild and wending history that begins in the late 1800s with the dangerous, cattle-rustling Archuleta brothers. They named it Rancho de los Brujos — which served as a deterrent to anyone curious enough to wander onto the property. The Archuletas stole cattle and livestock and hid them in Box Canyon behind the ranch. The canyon was an ideal corral. It offered no way out without being seen as well as a source of fresh water for the cattle. It is said that those who tried to reclaim their livestock were killed by the Archuletas and buried in the area. The whistling winds blowing up the canyon walls were rumored by locals to be the cries of those unfortunate souls.

Kitchen Mesa

By the time Georgia O’Keeffe found her way to the ranch in 1934, it had been sold to Carol Stanley, who gradually sold it off in parcels to Arthur Pack. It was being operated as a dude ranch when O’Keeffe arrived. Pack wrote about his years on this land in two books, We Called It Ghost Ranch and The Ghost Ranch Story. The reclusive O’Keeffe wasn’t keen on the dude ranch idea, but she was happy to install herself in Ghost House for the duration of the summer. In 1940 Pack sold her his own ranch house, “Rancho de los Burros”– and 7 surrounding acres. Now, you can ride horses to the house, along a trail that leads you through the valley, under the watchful eye of Chimney Rock.

Chimney Rock

Our guide and veteran horseman Robbie Carter was a wealth of information on some of O’Keeffe’s favorite painting subjects. Before we set off he showed us a portfolio of many of her paintings of the area so we could spot them during the ride.

Trail toward Orphan Mesa

The trail winds around the undulating Lavender Hills, through the bright red pasture O’Keeffe called “My Back Yard,” and past her house that faces her favorite mountain: Cerro Pedernal. She called it her “private mountain,” and she said, “God told me that if I painted it often enough I could have it.”

On horseback I had an elevated peek at O’Keeffe’s summer house and its view. It’s easy to imagine becoming hypnotized by the mountainous table of Pedernal rising above the serene waters of Abiquiu Lake. This house is not open to the public, so I felt lucky to be able to get this close to it. I’m told it remains exactly as she left it.

O'Keeffe-Summer-House-and-Cerro-Pedernal

View of O’Keeffe’s Summer House and Cerro Pedernal

Beyond the great artists’ pervasive influence on the minds of visitors, today Ghost Ranch is a veritable playground for kids and adult lovers of the outdoors. In 1955, Pack gave the ranch to the Presbyterian Church with the understanding that they would not develop it, ensuring its pristine land remains a natural preserve. The nonprofit organization now offers a plethora of activities including geology, paleontology and archeology tours, hiking, horse riding, art, history, astronomy, archery, spiritual retreats of various doctrines, yoga retreats, and even high and low ropes courses, to mention a few. Guests can choose from an extensive calendar of workshops, classes and outdoor activities throughout the year.

It’s an easy 50-mile drive north of Santa Fe, but an entire day may not be enough to experience it all. No problem – they have lodging facilities from dorm-style to guest suites. There is a cafeteria which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and accommodates both meat eaters and vegetarians with a couple of well-thought-out options. Breakfast is only $8 per person, lunch $10, and dinner $12.

For day visitors there is a $3 conservation fee, which grants you entry to both the paleontology and archeology museums, access to hiking trails and all public areas of the ranch. And the outdoor areas are pet friendly (dogs must be leashed). The fee for commercial tours/groups is $5 per person and the guide is free. If you wish to participate in a scheduled activity, call ahead to let them know you’re coming. (505) 685-4333.

The guides at Ghost Ranch are well-versed in the vast history and flora and fauna of the area, which makes the numerous variety of hikes and trail tours they offer all the more fascinating. You are free to roam around by yourself if you wish, but one word of caution they share is that if you’re hiking unguided, you must sign in at the Welcome Center and sign out when you leave. I would recommend being guided, so you can find your way around to the most interesting points, and learn a lot more than you’d expect, and because it is surprisingly easy to get spun around and lost.

After spending an entire day at the ranch, I returned home with the knowledge that I would sleep like a baby after a lovely, long day’s adventure, and feeling inspired to return to spend more time. Perhaps I’ll take a class, or maybe do a yoga retreat, or just spend a nice quiet weekend away from the bustle of the norm.

What to Bring:

Whatever the time of year, bring a hat for shade, sunglasses, and wear light layers in the summer, such as t-shirt, shorts, and light jacket, and sensible hiking shoes. Remember, that in the summer there may be brief monsoons in the afternoons. For spring, fall and winter the only difference would be your layers are warmer. Always bring water! Chapstick and sunscreen are strongly advised.

For more information and links to Ghost Ranch’s calendar of events, classes and workshops etc., go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/day-trips/ghost-ranch

The Legacy of Norah Pierson: The Golden Eye

Posted on April 6, 2013 by Maria Johnson

She was a woman of talent, taste, and humor; an original character who added new color and beauty to Santa Fe’s unique retail jewelery landscape. Norah Pierson was one of the first female jewelers in Santa Fe to work in high carat gold and rare exotic gemstones. And yet there remains an air of mystery around this creative figure whose legacy lives on in The Golden Eye at 115 Don Gaspar Street, just steps from the historic plaza. I wanted to know more about this Santa Fean who named her store after the symbol of the ancient Egyptian sky god Horus, which represents protection, royal power and good health.

In 1984, Norah opened her “dream store” in Santa Fe, and hired Amy Bertelli as manager. This would prove to be the beginning of a lifelong, dynamic partnership. Over the course of the next 23 years, they trained a talented crew of jewelers, and built a worldwide, loyal clientele for their designs.

I love descending the steps into the tiny store to be surrounded by such opulent ores and gems. It stirs childhood memories of classic tales of caves, grottos, and pirates stumbling upon a hidden lode.

Gallery Director: Paula Cho

Norah drew inspiration for her designs from a variety of cultures across the globe. This Ashanti Cross of high carat gold, silver, aquamarine and blue zircon was inspired by the Ashanti tribe of Central Ghana. It is surrounded by a beautiful chain intricately woven in 24k gold.

Other rare and earthy gems and jewels Norah favored include hematite, quartz, zircon, cognac diamonds, turquoise and so many more. “She had an amazing ability to spot remarkable jewels,” says Paula Cho, Galllery Director. “She was the type of person who could go for a hike and spot arrowheads and pottery sherds like no one else. She taught Amy to do the same.”

Turquoise and Gold Necklaces

Norah loved the clever contrast of old, found, decaying metals with lush, rare jewels and high carat gold – a theme that remains in the displays today. Here, the rusting metal of an old hand rake flatters the simplicity of rose and yellow gold rings displayed on its finger-like prongs.

Since 1971, Norah had run a successful business in Laguna Beach, but the increasing bustle and popularity of the area sent her in search of quieter surroundings. She found her ideal in Santa Fe. She liked privacy, and disliked notoriety. She preferred the isolated lifestyle befitting a Santa Fe artist, and chose to live surrounded by nature about 30 miles outside of town. She designed, and pitched in to build, an extraordinary “Rock House” on her land. Its organic-shaped foam exterior was painstakingly formed to blend and reflect its natural sandstone surroundings. It stands as testament to how much Norah loved rock in all its forms, and her desire to live surrounded by it.

She may have shied from the limelight in her private life, but Norah’s creations have captured the attention and admiration of buyers and collectors around the world for decades. But there is one creation that’s not for sale. It sits proudly in its display like a totem to Norah and perhaps to all women. Inspired by a Star Wars toy, this pendant named Warrior Woman holds within its futuristic design 18k gold, moonstone, tourmalines, turned rose quartz, Mexican fire opal, pearls, black onyx, red spinel, cat’s-eye, emerald, garnet, peridot, amethyst, and diamonds!

I like to think it represents Norah, and her multifaceted, hard-working, creative and original character, who loved intricately blending the ordinary with the extraordinary, with grace and humor.

In 2007, Norah passed away peacefully in her sleep. Amy and her expert staff and jewelers carry on her legacy today.

The Santa Fe jewelers who proudly carry the torch of Norah Pierson’s legacy also render their own special designs in unexpected metals and extraordinary gems. These jewelers are some of the best in their field. Among them is Santa Fe local Susan Bell, who specializes in the delicate filigre designs of the late16th century Ecuadorian and Spanish cultures. And Robin Waynee, originally of the Saginaw Chippewa Indian tribe of Michigan, whose designs have won numerous prestigious awards, and Falk Burger, who mines many of his own gemstones for his one-of-a-kind creations, and whose work has been shown in galleries and museums all over the country. Here’s a fascinating piece of Falk’s with aging metal,18k gold, sterling silver, hematite and clear quartz – a one-of-a-kind treasure.

Falk-Burger-Necklace

A visit to The Golden Eye is a must if you want to gain access to a true Santa Fe character. The store, its people and its story are all beautifully original.

For more information on The Golden Eye, please go to: http://santafeselection.com/unique-shops/the-golden-eye

The Turquoise Trail And An Extraordinary Chocolate Shop

Posted on March 27, 2013 by Maria Johnson

It’s a late winter Sunday with hints of spring warmth. We had a couple of hours to take a nice, easy road trip. The town of Madrid won the coin toss. The Turquoise Trail runs along Highway 14 between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, covering fifty miles of beautiful scenery, mountain vistas and historic mining towns.

The old mining town of Madrid, pronounced MADrid, is located on the Turquoise Trail only 20 miles south of Santa Fe. It is so close, but a half day’s visit leaves you feeling as if you’ve traveled to another place and time. Highway 14 doesn’t feel like a highway; there’s hardly any traffic, and a commanding view of the blue arcs of the Ortiz Mountains draws you in.

On the way, you can spot petroglyph markings at The Garden of the Gods. It’s private land, so you can’t access the area, but you can get up close and marvel at the extraordinary monolithic rock formations that stand in defiance of their immediate surroundings. It makes sense that before geology had an explanation, the gods were the only ones to credit for such unusual “plantings.”

A brief stop at the tiny village of Cerrillos and the journey back in time begins. The Cerrillos Turquoise Mining Museum contains hundreds of artifacts from the American Old West and the Cerrillos Mining District. You can hike or ride horseback to explore the old turquoise and ore mines in the Cerrillos State Park. Broken Saddle Riding Company offers some of the best riding in the county. Cerrillos is so small that you don’t need directions to find any of the attractions that are listed on a board as you enter town. I love its original Wild West buildings with their facades and wooden walkways, which made it the ideal location for the filming of the popular movie Young Guns in 1988. The only apparent modern updates are the cars and a stop sign.

Just three miles further along The Turquoise Trail is Madrid’s welcome sign at Old Goat Road. The emblem of a baseball bat and mining pick tells of days past.

Madrid was founded in 1891 as a company mining town, and bustled with business. Coal was a highly sought-after resource in the early 1800s, and the rare geology of the area supplied both hard and soft coal to sell to the railroad industry, locals, and the U.S Government. Madrid became famous for its July 4th parades and Christmas light displays, and for minor league baseball games in the first lit baseball stadium in the West.The stadium sits on the edge of town; its baseball glory has faded, but during fairs and festivals it returns to life with parades and musical events. In the late 1950s coal use dwindled and Madrid became a veritable ghost town for twenty years. In 1970, artists came to the rescue, claiming and reviving some of its original miners’ shacks and main street houses for their galleries and studios.

Even though the trees are still in their winter sleep, the main vein through town is warm and welcoming with a colorful character and a healthy variety of unique galleries, cafes, inns and shops. Every time I visit, there’s always something new to discover.

Roadside is Connie’s Photo Park. Passers-by can pose as historic, factual or fictional characters. You can take as many pictures as you like – just honor the honor system by dropping a little cash in the donation box.

As the road curves at the far end of town, you meet the Mine Shaft Tavern, which was first established around 1895 during the coal mining boom. After burning to the ground in 1944, it was rebuilt in 1947. Now it offers such faves as fresh-squeezed margaritas and green chile cheeseburgers that attract fans from far and wide. And some of the best live music concerts happen at the Mine Shaft throughout the year.

Tucked alongside the Mine Shaft is an alley of tiny galleries and shops called Gypsy Plaza.

Among the many gems is the aptly named Shugarman’s Little Chocolate Shop.

After traveling through time, you have to stop to refuel with delicious, hand-made, unique varieties of dark, milk and white chocolate barks, truffles, and chile and chocolate-dipped fruit! It would be criminal not to! Owner Harvey Shugarman is a food expert, a veteran chef and chocolate connoisseur, and we’re lucky he chose Madrid to set up shop.

Goji Berries in Dark Chocolate

Unique to Shugarman’s is the wide variety of exotic, delicious berries, nuts and fruits sold in bulk (if you choose) or delightfully harnessed in chocolate from dark to white. Among the choices are goji berries, golden raisins, mango and coconut. Harvey uses only organic ingredients and no processed sugars. So, even if you’re less of a chocolate fan than many, you’ll find something to pique your taste buds.

Red Chile and Dark Chocolate Dipped Mango

And look at the size of those cacao bean pods!! The nibs are the sugarless delicacy found within the seeds of the bean and are the beginnings of the mildly sweet creations and elixirs Harvey offers. He loves to experiment with new and unusual pairings that will delight his customers, which makes it a regular favorite of Santa Fe and Albuquerque locals to take the easy drive to Madrid and check out his latest creation. It is always a good idea to call first if you want to be sure they’re open during your visit. Spring, summer, fall, he’s usually open Thursday through Monday 11.30am-5pm. Call (505) 474-9041.

Cacao Beans and Cacao Nibs

If we continued south along The Turquoise Trail we could explore the towns of Golden and Sandia Crest, but we’ll save that for another day.

The return to Santa Fe on The Turquoise Trail keeps us entertained with stunning views of the Sangre de Cristos and Jemez Mountain Ranges.

Jemez Mountain Range.

At a leisurely pace, the entire journey through time took only 3 hours. The drive time was only an hour round-trip. It is amazing how far you can go and be only 20 miles from Santa Fe!

For more information about Shugarman’s Little Chocolate Shop go to: http://santafeselection.com/chocolate/shugarmans-little-chocolate-shop

For more information about The Turquoise Trail please go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/turquoise-trail

Traditional Native American Hands-On Pottery Experience

Posted on March 15, 2013 by Maria Johnson

We’re sorry, this activity is no longer available on Santa Fe Selection. Please click this link to reference our up-to-date list of authentic Santa Fe activities, day trips, tours and workshops. ~ Thank you!

Leibovitz: Sharp Shootin’ Annie – Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

Posted on February 27, 2013 by Maria Johnson

On February 15, 2013, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum launched the Annie Leibovitz exhibit, Pilgrimage (organized by the Smithsonian Art Museum). I was lucky enough to be able to attend a preview of the exhibit the day before it opened. We were led through the rooms of beautiful images and given some insights into the ideas and personal commentary behind the artist’s choices that comprise the collection. Jerry, the docent who led us, did a great job of conveying the information that he had been given only hours previously by the artist herself.

About her inspiration and motivation for the project, Leibovitz says, “From the beginning, when I was watching my children stand mesmerized over Niagara Falls, this project was an exercise in renewal. It taught me to see again.”

Annie Leibovitz, Niagara Falls, Ontario Canada, 2009. © Annie Leibovitz. From “Pilgrimage” (Random House, 2011)

Leibovitz’s travels for the project included two visits to New Mexico to photograph various aspects of O’Keeffe’s legacy; her home, Ghost Ranch’s landscapes, and other treasures held in the Museum vault.

What I felt from seeing the exhibit, is that after 40 years of photography assignments, Leibovitz took the opportunity to explore her own interior and exterior worlds without the concerns of pleasing a client. She just pleased herself. The compositions I saw are potent because the subjects hold their own as iconic figures in world history, art, culture, and not least the changing roles of women in society. And they stand as metaphorical representations of some of the most unique, influential people, events, places and stories that have shaped our current experience of the world. One example, is an image of a playing card that the legendary sharp-shooting Annie Oakley had shot through the tiny printed heart from a distance of ninety feet!

Annie Leibovitz, Annie Oakley’s heart target, private collection, Los Angeles, California, 2010. Copyright Annie Leibovitz. From “Pilgrimage” (Random House, 2011)

There’s a strength to the subjects Leibovitz chose to shoot that echoes the strength of O’Keeffe’s beloved subjects. The current exhibits, O’Keeffe and the Faraway: Nature and Image, and Leibovitz’s Pilgrimage compliment each other beautifully. I would recommend everyone take this opportunity to visit the O’Keeffe Museum before May 5, 2013 to see these two icons under one roof…

I have a little side story here: In 1986, I was living in New York City and working as a fashion model. I think back to the day I worked for Bergdorf Goodman, modeling Donna Karan fashion. It was a very easy assignment for me. I spent most of the day lying on a bed, wearing the latest Donna Karan fashion; my hair, makeup, and clothing all being fussed over and arranged. The photographer snapped roll after roll of film (yes, it was that long ago) from atop a very tall ladder. And when the ad came out in the New York Times on February 2nd, 1986, I was thrilled. I sent the newspaper page to my parents back in England. It wasn’t until they passed away that I found out they’d kept a suitcase full of photos and magazine tear sheets from my modeling days. I sorted through them, threw many away, kept a few, and then promptly forgot about them. The night before I went to this exhibit, I looked to see if by chance I had had the good sense to keep this one image. It was the only time during my fashion career that I was given the privilege of working with Annie Leibovitz.

Image by Annie Leibovitz 1986: New York Times

Image copyright: Annie Leibovitz 1986: New York Times

Now I look at that young girl in the photo and feel an almost parental pride toward her. We had to do some wizardry to get the massive, now sepia toned page to scan, and the folds add character, but it is, nonetheless, my one degree of connection to a great artist.

To learn more about the O’Keeffe Museum exhibits go to: http://www.santafeselection.com/museums/georgia-okeeffe-museum

By Book or By Crook

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Independent, locally-owned bookstores are fast becoming a rarity in the U.S. So much so that there are tour operators organizing trips to some of the nation’s favorites. And Santa Fe boasts one of the best in Collected Works Bookstore and Coffeehouse.

Since 1986, Collected Works has been Santa Fe’s community hub for the written and spoken word. Owners Dorothy Massey and her daughter Mary Wolf have poured their hearts into making Collected Works a local favorite. With an events calendar that a performing arts space would be proud of, Collected Works hosts poetry readings, music and meet-the-author events and book signings, lectures on environment, politics, opera, and so much more.

For the readers and writers of tomorrow, they offer Children’s Story Time every Wednesday and Thursday mornings from 10:45am to 11:30am. This is an opportunity for parents to take a break, sip a coffee, have a pastry and let the kids have fun.

It is heartwarming to see youngsters browsing a tangible book instead of being glued to a video game on a computer screen.

Located in historic downtown Santa Fe at the corner of Galisteo and Water Streets, the 4,000 square-foot space houses every kind of book for every interest. There are pastries and coffees, teas and soft drinks served all day long. If you’re an early bird you get 20% off your coffee shop purchase between 8 and 9am. And where else can you curl up on a cozy sofa by a roaring fire with your favorite author and a steaming hot latte?

In the summer, the shaded patio welcomes you to sip an ice tea and while away an hour or two reading a juicy novel, or working at your computer, whichever you prefer. And for those with e-readers, they are partnering with Kobo ebooks to access tens of thousands of affordable, downloadable titles.

Long before it was a bookstore, part of this plot of land housed a legendary outlaw. William H. Bonney, a.k.a Billy the Kid, once spent time, or should I say, “did time,” in the area that is now dedicated to the events stage and cafe. This is the spot where the Santa Fe County jailhouse once stood. You can’t help feeling a sense of mystery and intrigue when you read the plaque on the exterior wall that tells the story about the notorious Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid.

Sheriff Pat Garrett captured Billy the Kid near Fort Sumner at a place called Stinking Springs. Billy was brought to Santa Fe to await trial because the jail here was considered the most secure. He was held for three months, from December 27th, 1880 to March 28, 1881. His trial took place in Mesilla, all the way down south near Las Cruces. Billy was found guilty of murder and then transported to Lincoln County where he was to be hanged in April. But The Kid managed to kill his two jailers and escape.

Three months later, it was by chance that Pat Garrett found Billy at Fort Sumner. He shot and killed Billy the Kid on July 14, 1881.

The Santa Fe jailhouse building was demolished in the early 1900s. Happily, the site now hosts our favorite bookstore and coffeehouse. Whether you’re a visitor or a local, Collected Works is a warm and welcoming place that keeps the community together and the book-loving culture alive and well in Santa Fe. Be sure to include a visit on your agenda. You might want to bookmark their link so you can check their calendar listings for the many events they host. Or sign up for their newsletter and stay in the know.

Weather & What To Pack For Your Santa Fe Trip

Posted on February 10, 2013 by Maria Johnson

When I first arrived in Santa Fe back in 1984, I was fascinated by the quality of light, and changes in weather that occurred throughout the day. And almost thirty years later, I’m still fascinated. The elevation of 7000+ feet, clean air (rated best in U.S by American Lung Assoc.) and varied terrain all play a dramatic role in the weather, lifestyle and beauty of New Mexico. The locals say, “If you don’t like the weather in Santa Fe, wait a minute.”

Overlooking Santa Fe from Sun Mountain in June

Along with an amazing diversity of terrain, culture, art, history, and culinary adventures, we have excellent year-round outdoor activities; terrific skiing, river rafting, kayaking, fly fishing, hiking, biking and more.

Seasons

We are blessed with an average of over 300 days of sunshine a year, and although many people mistakenly believe we are a sand-filled desert, our Sangre de Cristos mountain range is the southernmost point of the Rocky Mountains… and they are green, with rivers, lakes and streams. We have 4 distinct seasons – sometimes in as little as one day or even an hour, during certain times of year. You can keep up with our weather trends through the live weather link in our Visitor Info category on SantaFeSelection.com

Here’s a guideline chart of annual temperature and precipitation averages.

A Few Packing Tips For Your Trip
As temperatures may vary broadly during any season, the main thing to remember is that layering is the best way to be prepared for whatever the day’s weather in whatever season in Northern New Mexico.

The fall brings cool nights and mornings beginning in late August – early September. The days can warm up considerably into the mid to high 70s, and even low 80s. You’ll want to bring a warm jacket for evenings and mornings and have a light shirt under your layers for the high temps of the day. In late September through mid-October the lows are colder, down to 40s, the days can warm up to low-mid 60s, and maybe low 70s if we’re having a warm streak. By early to mid October, we see the peak of beauty in the changing leaves. By the end of October, it’s touch and go, you definitely need to be prepared for anything from cold to warm, rain or an odd snow flurry at higher elevations, so packing the layers is a must.

Aspen Vista – Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Winters tend to rev up starting from late November and can last toward the end of March, but there’ll be warm days interspersed through January and February just to remind us that spring is on its way. Winter snow brings great skiing and winter sports activities. Daily temperatures can vary radically from high 50s to low 30s. But the cold air is dry, so it doesn’t feel as cold as the damp, bone-chilling cold I experienced growing up in England. For a winter visit you’ll want that puffy coat, or something that will keep out the chill, and some nice warm boots with rugged soles that grip well (with scarf, hat, gloves close by, just in case).

November Snow

Spring shows up from time to time during February and March, but the steady spring temperatures aren’t until late April. As a rule, we don’t plant anything in our gardens until after Mother’s Day to be sure they won’t be crippled by a late frost. Spring highs can range between an ideal low to mid 70s to nippy low 40s – high 30s at night. Intermittent winds are common between March and May, which, though not necessarily cold, can be strong. Late April, the trees are starting to blossom and in early May there’s usually an abundance of lilacs and wisterias coloring the town with shades of blue, purple, white and pink. You’ll need a spring jacket for the early morning and late evening chill, and a hat for shade. Be prepared to shed layers during the day.

After mid-May the spring is in full swing and the highs are getting higher, toward the low – mid 80s during the afternoons. By Memorial Day Weekend summer is on its way. And by June, the highs average between 80 – 90 degrees (sometimes a little higher for short spurts). Cool nights and early mornings may require an extra light layer. By 10 am it has warmed up considerably and the lightest shirt and shorts, with good walking sandals, hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses are ideal. An extra light layer is always a good idea if you can fit one in your bag, or tie around your waist or shoulders in the case of an occasional rain shower.

Taking a sec in the shade, hiking Sun Mountain in July

In July, the heat and mountainous terrain can stir up an afternoon thundershower, locals refer to it as the monsoon season. These welcome storms add a touch of drama to the skies and may last anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour delivering refreshing rains. I’d say bring an umbrella, but honestly, who cares if you get wet when it is so brief, and deliciously warm and fun! On occasion, there may be hail that can vary in size from styrofoam looking baubles to the less common golf ball size (I’d take cover for those episodes). The accompanying lightning displays are phenomenal! And then there are often gorgeous rainbows (some doubles) arcing after or during a storm.

And after maybe an hour of drama, you’re left with a fantastic sunset, slightly cooler temperatures and a perfect evening to take a nice peaceful stroll around the Plaza, listen to free music at the Plaza bandstand, and eat dinner at any of the favorite restaurants in the vicinity. A light extra layer, shawl, or sweater may be needed, if not for outside, then perhaps for inside where there may be air conditioning. Air conditioning is not a big necessity here as the adobe buildings are quite good at keeping us cool in summer but some restaurants, museums and theaters may have A/C.

There is little need for high fashion, or high heels here. Casual dress is accepted everywhere, unless you have a special occasion to attend that calls for gowns and tux (rare but has been known to happen). If you do dress up for a special occasion remember, some parking lots and some small streets are unpaved, uneven, or covered with loose gravel. (Those leather heeled Jimmy Choos might want to stay home.)

Governor’s Palace Portal

Comfortable walking shoes or hiking sandals are recommended for most activities, from strolling around the many museums and sites, to the beautiful long or short hikes that can vary from easy to moderate inclines, up to extremely steep terrain. I recommend Santa Fe Walkabouts for a great variety of fun excursions. They’ll custom cater to you and your skill level. Here’s Georges Mally of SFW in January on the beautiful red rocks at O’Keeffe’s favorite place, Ghost Ranch.

Whatever the season, layers are the best way to be prepared. Year-round it is wise to carry sunscreen, chapstick and a brimmed hat and sunglasses. We are high up and the sun is strong.

**Another Very Important Thing

At 7000+ feet, the air is excellent quality, but thinner. Regardless of age or physical condition, your body may need a little time to adapt to the altitude. DRINKING LOTS OF WATER IS A MUST!!! You might think you drink enough already, but a minimum of 2 litres is a starting point here. And drinking alcohol can hinder and extend the adjustment period.

When you first arrive, it is best to allow a day or two to adjust before any strenuous activity or excursions. Take it easy, drink plenty of water, skip the alcohol, eat regular light meals, take a nap if needed. And if you feel you need some assistance, no worries, there’s the ultiMED Urgent Care facility just a few blocks from the historic Plaza, to help you out. No lines, no hassle, no appointment necessary, just a pleasant environment and swift, professional medical attention (most insurances accepted). They’ll have you back to enjoying your vacation in no time! Click here for more details on altitude adjustment symptoms.

Dozin’ by the Jemez River in late May.

There’s something for everyone in New Mexico. So be sure to add it to your list of places to visit. To help you plan your trip, find the right lodging for your needs and budget, access excellent maps, or if you have any questions about things to do, where to eat, etc., please visit SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide & Concierge.

If you would like free personal referrals, you can also call or write to me with your questions. (505) 470-2991, email: info@santafeselection.com.

Please join my blog, I’d love to hear from you.

Happy Travels! ~ Maria!

Against The Odds: The Birth of A National Treasure

Posted on February 2, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some quality time with the knowledgeable staff at The Case Trading Post Museum Store, located within the oldest independent, non-profit museum in New Mexico, The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian.There is an interesting history behind the creation of the museum, and its collection.

In 1921, Mary Cabot Wheelwright, a Boston native, met Hastiin Klah, a well respected Navajo religious leader, “singer,” “medicine man.” They were introduced by Arthur and Frances Newcomb who operated a Trading Post on the Navajo Reservation near Klah’s home.

Klah believed the Navajo (Diné ) People’s culture and religious traditions were under threat. The 1863 – 68 incarceration of more than 10,000 Navajo people by the U.S Military at Fort Sumner’s Bosque Redondo, the loss of over 2,000 people, including many tribal elders, coupled with the influx of white settlers into the west, had had a devastating effect. And the U.S Government’s attempts to assimilate Navajo children into white Christian schools and society also jeopardized the chances of preserving Diné spirituality and traditions for future generations.

After meeting Klah, Mary was permitted to witness a Navajo ceremonial. And Mary became passionate about helping Klah preserve the traditions in as many media as possible. Here is Klah with one of his own representational weavings.

They began creating and collecting the renditions of ceremonial art and artifacts in tapestries, sand paintings, and many hundreds of recordings of songs, chants and poems that Klah knew by heart. Although Klah met opposition by other Navajo elders and religious leaders, he was determined to continue.

During the 1930s Mary was encouraged by her friend David Rockefeller Sr., to found a museum to house the collection. Then she too met with opposition, from the Laboratory of Anthropology in Santa Fe, who had initially been pleased by her offer to build a “Navajo House of Prayer.” Wheelwright wanted the building to be in the shape of a “Hogan” to honor the spirit and tradition of the Navajo people and the objects it was to house. But the octagonal, looming shape contradicted the revival of the low, flat-roof pueblo design that was trending in the 1930s.

When Mary had given up hope of ever fulfilling the dream, her friend Amelia Elizabeth White donated 8 acres on the foothills of the Sangre de Cristos, within the area that is now known as “Museum Hill.” And without the need for further approval from the Laboratory of Anthropology, in 1937, the original Hogan design became a reality. Sadly, Klah died just a few months before its completion, but he did ceremonially bless the land where the museum now stands.

First known as the House of Navajo Religion Museum, it was renamed The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian in 1976 after the trustees decided to return to the Diné the sacred ceremonial items that inspired its creation. Exhibits now include the amazing historic and contemporary art, weavings, pottery, jewelry, apparel, and myriad works of well-known and up-and-coming Native American artists from all tribes. Klah’s and Wheelwright’s chance encounter, and subsequent vision and determination, led to the creation of an extensive private collection that has always been open to the public for free. A visit to the museum allows everyone to appreciate the dedication, devotion and vision of these exceptional founders.

The Wheelwright Museum when it first opened

Image:courtesy of Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian.

It is easy and very affordable to support the good work of this museum by becoming a member. For as little as only $40 a year, members receive discounts on purchases and many other benefits. To join please call (505) 982-4636, or visit the store (click here for address and map).

The Case Trading Post is an important part of the museum. It sits in the lower level and has its own reputation as one of the most authentic, reputable trading posts in the U.S. Complete with squeaking wooden floors and a rustic beamed ceiling, it was designed to resemble the early Navajo Trading Posts that were located at many of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad stations from the late 1800s.

They exhibit and sell a wide array of collectibles dating from as early as the “Harvey Era” (1878-1900s) all the way to the present day. They also show exciting works of highly popular contemporary stars, such as award winning Navajo designer Orlando Dugi’s exquisite high fashion jewelry and accessories.

The unique silk and velvet creations by fashion designer Patricia Michaels of Taos Pueblo are also available. Patricia is currently a contestant on the Heidi Klum show, “Project Runway” on Lifetime.

The knowledgeable staff are always happy to share information on the artists and history of the Case Trading Post and the Museum. Pat was very helpful to me with all my questions, “Thank you Pat!”

The Wheelwright Museum and Case Trading Post are located at Museum Hill, just about 2 miles from Santa Fe’s historic Plaza. The link shows you a map. This is a premium location to capture breathtaking 360 degree views.

**IMPORTANT NOTE: February 10th through 17th 2013, Museum members receive 20% off purchases in the Case Trading Post. You need to call (505) 982-4636 or visit to sign up for membership, and receive the discount. This is a great opportunity to find an original Valentine’s gift for your sweetheart! (*some exclusions apply*)

Thanks for reading this article. It was a biggie. I hope you enjoyed it. Please don’t hesitate to share your comments.

High Road to Taos Part 2: Truchas

Posted on January 24, 2013 by Maria Johnson

Daylight is fading fast and you want to make it to Truchas along the High Road to Taos before sunset so you set off from Chimayó, along Route 76 toward Taos. En route is Centinela Traditional Arts Weaving Gallery, El Meson de la Centinela Inn, Oviedo Carvings & Bronze Foundry & Ranch.

As the road rises out of the valley, you’re greeted by the snow-covered peaks of Truchas; tinted pink in the setting sun. And spread across the ridge before you, along the Quemado Valley is the tiny, historic village of Cordova.

The village was originally named Pueblo Quemado, after an ancient Indian pueblo, which had been destroyed by fire. After being the target of multiple Indian attacks, the Spanish settlement was abandoned in 1748. But just a few years later, in 1750, the Spanish settlers returned and named it Cordova after an important local family.

And on the opposite side of the road is the silhouette of Georgia O’Keeffe’s favorite monolith, Cerro Pedernal. She is known to have painted this subject 28 times during her career.

Just a few miles further and you reach Truchas (Spanish for trout) named after the river that irrigates the farms of the area. Truchas sits 8,000 feet above sea level. It’s charm and remoteness appeals to many, and in particular artists. Many have settled here making Truchas a special artist community, and art enthusiast destination. Some of us remember Robert Redford’s movie, “The Milagro Beanfield War,” which brought notoriety to the village in the late 1980s.

As you take the road into town, just before the turn toward Taos, “Ghost Pony Gallery” sits on the left. It’s winter, so not all galleries will be open without advance notice, a phone call or an email. Fortunately, artist Trish Booth Pieterse is home and you get to see some of her beautiful work. To reach Trish call: 505 689 1704 or email: ghostponygallery@gmail.com.

You know you’ll have to return to learn more about this extraordinary area and many other artists’ work. High Road Artist is a blog that helps you gain insight into the artist’s life in Truchas. More details and information on the artists of the High Road can be found at http://santafeselection.com/day-trips-activities/high-road-artisans

The sun sets dramatically every night in Northern New Mexico. Tonight is no exception. And you’re in the ideal spot to catch its descent.

Santa Fe Selection

The Travelers' Local Connection & Guide to the Best of Santa Fe

Author Archives: Maria Johnson

About Maria Johnson

The Maria Martinez Living Heritage at San Ildefonso Pueblo

Ghost Ranch Revisited

The Legacy of Norah Pierson: The Golden Eye

The Turquoise Trail And An Extraordinary Chocolate Shop

Traditional Native American Hands-On Pottery Experience

Leibovitz: Sharp Shootin’ Annie – Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

By Book or By Crook

Weather & What To Pack For Your Santa Fe Trip

Against The Odds: The Birth of A National Treasure

High Road to Taos Part 2: Truchas

About Maria Johnson

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