About Maria Johnson

I was born on the northwest coast of England. I first arrived in Santa Fe in 1984. I had traveled extensively for many years as a fashion model, and lived in many amazing places; New York, Paris, London, L.A. I was so taken by the diverse culture, history, landscape, weather and lifestyle of Santa Fe that I decided to make it my home. I finally moved here permanently in 1990. I feel Santa Fe is my true home and I'm so glad that I have been able to live in this enchanted place for so many years. In 2010, I began Santa Fe Selection, the free mobile and online guide to the authentic Santa Fe experience. It is aimed at helping guide travelers to the businesses and experiences that I believe make Santa Fe unique. I hope you're able to visit here someday. There really is no place like it. And if you like my blog, please comment. I am available to help you with your questions about your trip here. Feel free to comment on my blog or contact me directly at info@santafeselection.com or (505) 470-2991. I look forward to hearing from you. Best Wishes, Maria Johnson.

Native American Pottery in the Making with Chris Youngblood

Posted on May 23, 2016 by Maria Johnson

Chris Youngblood is an amazing, Native American potter from Santa Clara pueblo. At 27 years of age, his talent and exquisite creations are well on the road to establishing him among the top Native potters of his generation.

Chris specializes in carved black, or red pottery with alternating surface elements that are either stone polished or matte, or finished with micaceous slip.

Please enjoy this photo essay on the production of one of Chris’ uniquely beautiful pots – a lidded, carved, black jar with koi.

Chris Youngblood Pottery Creation –

Chris is from a family of famous potters whose names are considered “royalty” in the world of pueblo pottery. His great grandmother was Margaret Tafoya (one of the most famous 20th century potters), his grandmother was potter Mela Youngblood; and his mother is Nancy Youngblood one of the most highly regarded potters of the last 20 years.

Chris Youngblood - Fish pot begins to emerge.

Chris Youngblood – Koi Jar begins to emerge.

His works are shown at the Lyn A. Fox Fine Pueblo Pottery Gallery on Canyon Road, where his exquisite talent is coming to the attention of many of the world’s most avid collectors and enthusiasts.

Like his ancestors, Chris uses traditional building and firing methods, plus a few twists of a wheel.

Chris Youngblood Koi Jar with lid.

Traditionally, lids were not made for most Native jars and pots. A flat piece of clay would be made to place over the opening if the jar was used for food storage. But Chris has enjoyed perfecting the art of the lid – accentuating his unique style.

This appears complete to me. It look gorgeous in this matte and polished red slip. But the best is still to come.

Crate firing.

When Chris’ grandmother Margaret Tafoya, was at the height of her creativity, during the 1930s, her signature “blackware” was winning top awards at Santa Fe’s Indian Markets. Back then, the average price for a pot was $3. Margaret’s pots would bring as much as $11 at the markets. That was at a time when a can of milk cost 10 cents, coffee was 35 cents a pound, and a pair of men’s britches could be bought for $1.75.

Black on black, a style made famous by Maria Martinez and Chris' great grandmother Margaret Tafoya in the early 1900s.

The beautiful finished Jar – Black with koi design and alternating surface elements of polish and matte.

Lyn A. Fox Fine Pueblo Pottery offers custom pottery demonstrations by special request (not including the firing process, of course). It’s a wonderful activity for tours, or private parties (fees will apply). All the artists Lyn features are excellent, young stars of the Native pottery world. Meeting them and watching their works come to life is a very memorable experience. To book a demonstration call (505) 470-2991.

Please visit SantaFeSelection.com for more information on Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico, things to do, places to see and stay, and lots more.

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Santa Fe Weather & What To Pack!

Posted on April 26, 2016 by Maria Johnson

Whatever the time of year, one thing is for sure, pack layers, layers, layers!

The locals say, “If you don’t like the weather in Santa Fe, wait a minute.”

When I first arrived in Santa Fe back in 1984, I was fascinated by the quality of light, and changes in weather that occurred throughout the day. And almost thirty years later, I’m still fascinated. The elevation of 7000+ feet, clean air (rated best in U.S by American Lung Assoc.) and varied terrain all play a dramatic role in the weather, lifestyle and beauty of New Mexico.

Overlooking Santa Fe from Sun Mountain in June

Along with an amazing diversity of terrain, culture, art, history, and culinary adventures, we have excellent year-round outdoor activities; terrific skiing, river rafting, kayaking, fly fishing, hiking, biking and more.

SEASONS

We are blessed with an average of over 300 days of sunshine a year, and although many people mistakenly believe we are a sand-filled desert, our Sangre de Cristos mountain range is the southernmost point of the Rocky Mountains… and they are green, with rivers, lakes and streams. We have 4 distinct seasons – sometimes in as little as one day or even an hour, during certain times of year. You can keep up with our weather trends through the live weather link in our Visitor Info category on SantaFeSelection.com

Here’s a guideline chart of annual temperature and precipitation averages.

PACKING TIPS
As temperatures may vary broadly during any season, the main thing to remember is that layering is the best way to be prepared for whatever the day’s weather in whatever season in Northern New Mexico.

The fall brings cool nights and mornings beginning in late August – early September. The days can warm up considerably into the mid to high 70s, and even low 80s. You’ll want to bring a warm jacket for evenings and mornings and have a light shirt under your layers for the high temps of the day. In late September through mid-October the lows are colder, down to 40s, the days can warm up to low-mid 60s, and maybe low 70s if we’re having a warm streak. By early to mid October, we see the peak of beauty in the changing leaves. By the end of October, it’s touch and go, you definitely need to be prepared for anything from cold to warm, rain or an odd snow flurry at higher elevations, so packing the layers is a must.

Aspen Vista – Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Winters tend to rev up starting from late November and can last toward the end of March, but there’ll be warm days interspersed through January and February just to remind us that spring is on its way. Winter snow brings great skiing and winter sports activities. Daily temperatures can vary radically from high 50s to low 30s. But the cold air is dry, so it doesn’t feel as cold as the damp, bone-chilling cold I experienced growing up in England. For a winter visit you’ll want that puffy coat, or something that will keep out the chill, and some nice warm boots with rugged soles that grip well (with scarf, hat, gloves close by, just in case).

November Snow

Spring shows up from time to time during February and March, but the steady spring temperatures aren’t until late April. As a rule, we don’t plant anything in our gardens until after Mother’s Day to be sure they won’t be crippled by a late frost. Spring highs can range between an ideal low to mid 70s to nippy low 40s – high 30s at night. Intermittent winds are common between March and May, which, though not necessarily cold, can be strong. Late April, the trees are starting to blossom and in early May there’s usually an abundance of lilacs and wisterias coloring the town with shades of blue, purple, white and pink. You’ll need a spring jacket for the early morning and late evening chill, and a hat for shade. Be prepared to shed layers during the day.

After mid-May the spring is in full swing and the highs are getting higher, toward the low – mid 80s during the afternoons. By Memorial Day Weekend summer is on its way. And by June, the highs average between 80 – 90 degrees (sometimes a little higher for short spurts). Cool nights and early mornings may require an extra light layer. By 10 am it has warmed up considerably and the lightest shirt and shorts, with good walking sandals, hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses are ideal. An extra light layer is always a good idea if you can fit one in your bag, or tie around your waist or shoulders in the case of an occasional rain shower.

Kokopelli Rafting Adventures – Kayak class.

Taking a sec in the shade, hiking Sun Mountain in July

In July, the heat and mountainous terrain can stir up an afternoon thundershower, locals refer to it as the monsoon season. These welcome storms add a touch of drama to the skies and may last anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour delivering refreshing rains. I’d say bring an umbrella, but honestly, who cares if you get wet when it is so brief, and deliciously warm and fun! On occasion, there may be hail that can vary in size from styrofoam looking baubles to the less common golf ball size (I’d take cover for those episodes). The accompanying lightning displays are phenomenal! And then there are often gorgeous rainbows (some doubles) arcing after or during a storm.

And after maybe an hour of drama, you’re left with a fantastic sunset, slightly cooler temperatures and a perfect evening to take a nice peaceful stroll around the Plaza, listen to free music at the Plaza bandstand, and eat dinner at any of the favorite restaurants in the vicinity. A light extra layer, shawl, or sweater may be needed, if not for outside, then perhaps for inside where there may be air conditioning. Air conditioning is not a big necessity here as the adobe buildings are quite good at keeping us cool in summer but some restaurants, museums and theaters may have A/C.

There is little need for high fashion, or high heels here. Casual dress is accepted everywhere, unless you have a special occasion to attend that calls for gowns and tux (rare but has been known to happen). If you do dress up for a special occasion remember, some parking lots and some small streets are unpaved, uneven, or covered with loose gravel. (Those leather heeled Jimmy Choos might want to stay home.)

Governor’s Palace Portal

Comfortable walking shoes or hiking sandals are recommended for most activities, from strolling around the many museums and sites, to the beautiful long or short hikes that can vary from easy to moderate inclines, up to extremely steep terrain. I recommend Santa Fe Walkabouts for a great variety of fun excursions. They’ll custom cater to you and your skill level. Here’s Georges Mally of SFW in January on the beautiful red rocks at O’Keeffe’s favorite place, Ghost Ranch.

Whatever the season, layers are the best way to be prepared. Year-round it is wise to carry sunscreen, chapstick and a brimmed hat and sunglasses. We are high up and the sun is strong.

**Another Very Important Thing

At 7000+ feet, the air is excellent quality, but thinner. Regardless of age or physical condition, your body may need a little time to adapt to the altitude. DRINKING LOTS OF WATER IS A MUST!!! You might think you drink enough already, but a minimum of 2 litres is a starting point here. And drinking alcohol can hinder and extend the adjustment period.

When you first arrive, it is best to allow a day or two to adjust before any strenuous activity or excursions. Take it easy, drink plenty of water, skip the alcohol, eat regular light meals, take a nap if needed. And if you feel you need some assistance, no worries, there’s the ultiMED Urgent Care facility just a few blocks from the historic Plaza, to help you out. No lines, no hassle, no appointment necessary, just a pleasant environment and swift, professional medical attention (most insurances accepted). They’ll have you back to enjoying your vacation in no time! Click here for more details on altitude adjustment symptoms.

Dozin’ by the Jemez River in late May.

There’s something for everyone in New Mexico. So be sure to add it to your bucket list.

To help you plan your trip, find the right lodging for your needs and budget, access excellent maps, or if you have any questions about things to do, where to eat, etc., please visit SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide & Concierge.

If you would like personal referrals, you can also call or write to me with your questions. (505) 470-2991, email: info@santafeselection.com.

Please join my blog, I’d love to hear from you.

Happy Travels! ~ Maria!

El Rancho de Las Golondrinas – Living in History

Posted on February 25, 2016 by Maria Johnson

There’s a beautiful valley of rolling hills, steeped in history and timeless tradition just 25 minutes south of downtown Santa Fe, called El Rancho De Las Golondrinas (The Ranch Of The Swallows). A variety of adobe and wooden buildings stand in beautiful defiance of modern times, offering us a means to travel back through centuries.

Entrance to the Courtyard with the well and horno ovens.

For many centuries, Las Golondrinas was a popular paraje, (Spanish for stopping place) for Meso-American and North American Native traders. It’s natural cienegas (spring-fed ponds) and streams made it a traveler’s oasis after months of arduous trekking across the dry lands of Mexico, Arizona, and southern New Mexico.

Las Golondrinas pond. Image: Las Golondrinas archives.

Today, El Rancho de Las Golondrinas keeps the past very much alive, and continues to be a cherished place, loved by locals and visitors. Each year, from April to October, markets, fairs and festivals are held there, making it one of Santa Fe’s top destinations. In 2015, their Harvest Festival was voted #2 in USA Today’s Best Harvest Festival poll.

2017 Schedule of Events

April 30^th & May 1^st – New Mexico: The Civil War & More. 10am-4pm

April opens with the Civil War Re-enactment

May 14^th & 15^th – Fiesta de la Familia. 10am-4pm

June 3rd & 4^th – Spring Festival & Fiber Arts Fair. 10am-4pm

Authentic Wool Dyeing at Las Golondrinas.

June 17^th & 18^th – Herb & Lavender Festival. 10am-4pm

July 1st & 2nd – 24th Annual Santa Fe Wine Festival. Noon-6pm

July 22nd & 23rd – 10th Annual Viva Mexico. 10am-4pm

Viva Mexico Performers

NEW in 2017: August 5^th & 6^th – Panza Llena, Corazon Contento: New Mexico Food Fest: Explore the food history of New Mexico at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Step back in time, as you taste your way through the history of the Land of Enchantment. Experience historic methods of food preparation, learn from food historians, attend workshops, sample delicious locally made creations and find something special from our vendors and artisans. Make connections to New Mexico’s contemporary culinary scene and be the judge of an epic food truck war.

NEW in 2017: August 19th & 20th – Adventures in Territorial New Mexico: From Civil War battles to Old West shootouts, experience the adventure of Territorial New Mexico! Taste some grub from the back of a chuck wagon and listen to songs of the vaqueros who once drove cattle across this vast land. Visit soldier encampments, watch the blacksmith hammer iron and meet amazing ladies from these rough times.

Sept 2nd and 3rd – Fiesta de los Niños: Immerse yourself in a weekend of interactive family activities that celebrate water! Roam around the ponds, creeks and acequias that give life to our historic site as you have fun with, and learn about, this precious resource. Also encounter animals that populate the southwest and who, like us, depend upon water. Fun for all ages! Wander the grounds and meet costumed volunteers who will tell you about “La Vida Vieja.”

September 16^th & 17^th – Santa Fe Renaissance Fair. 10am-5pm

Renaissance Fair – Dressing the part of Royal Attendees.

September 30 & Oct 1^st – Harvest Festival. 10am-4pm

The root cellar at El Rancho de Las Golondrinas during Harvest Festival.

NEW: Oct 28th – Halloween Event “Spirits of New Mexico’s Past”: Meet the ghosts of history who lived and died in the land of enchantment! Step back in time and encounter a diverse assortment of characters from New Mexico’s illustrious and often little known past. Listen to their amazing stories and experience intriguing bygone events. Lit by lantern light and campfires, our wondrous historic site takes on a family-friendly but spooky Halloween atmosphere.

Las Golondrinas is a valued reminder of the area’s Native American and Spanish cultures, the settlers’ traditions, and their staunch perseverance in the face of tumultuous times. Pathways wind through two hundred acres of living history, and canopies of ancient cottonwoods – some dating back over four hundred years – arc overhead.

Canopies of cottonwoods.

If those trees could talk…they might tell you that in 1598, the first Spanish colonists arrived by way of the 1500-mile-long El Camino Real de Tierra Adentra (The Royal Road of the Interior Lands).

El Camino Real Map showing Las Golondrinas and the original capitol of New Spain – San Juan Pueblo (Ohkay Owingeh).

This was the trade route that stretched from Mexico City to the Tewa village of Ohkay Owingeh, (the name is Tewa for Place of the Strong People). ConquistadorJuan Oñate, leader of the Spanish colonizing expedition, claimed the Native village as the first capital of New Spain. He renamed it San Juan Pueblo. (In 2003, the pueblo people reclaimed their Native name.) Ohkay Owingeh, sits 45 miles north of Las Golondrinas. Once travelers reached Las Golondrinas they knew they had only one more day to journey to the capitol of Santa Fe.

El Molino Grande de Sapello. The Big Mill from Sapello.

Settlers at Las Golondrinas had all that was needed for independent living. Water was a most important resource, along with mud for adobe bricks to build shelter, fertile soil, and nearby mountain forests for lumber. The Spanish built acequias (irrigation ditches) from the natural springs and ponds. The same acequias are still used today to water the ranch’s land, livestock and crops. They introduced sheep and winemaking to the area, and many other ways of life that remain part of Las Golondrinas’ living history today.

Sorghum crop during Harvest Festival.

During the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, the Spanish fled from New Mexico. In 1692, Don Juan de Vargas reclaimed New Mexico for the King of Spain. Spanish settlers returned in droves by way of El Camino Real. There are many travelers’ diaries and records from the time that mention el paraje de Las Golondrinas (the place of The Swallows).

Once again, the area thrived and villagers were able to trade their goods for outside provisions they didn’t have on hand, such as iron.

The blacksmith building.

But Comanche raids were a common and devastating occurrence. Circa 1770 – 80, military leader and governor Don Juan de Anza stopped at Las Golondrinas, with his expedition of 150 soldiers.

By 1786, Anza’s efforts initiated a treaty between Spain and the Comanche, which reduced the number of raids and eventually led to a more peaceful existence for the inhabitants.

In 1933, Leonora Curtin and her mother bought the property. They are known for their roles in founding Santa Fe’s Spanish Colonial Arts Society, which is responsible for the Annual Spanish Market that draws thousands of visitors each July to Santa Fe’s historic plaza and surrounding areas.

1948: Left to right: Leonora Scott Muse Curtin, Y.A Paloheimo and Leonora Curtin Paloheimo at Las Golondrinas.

In 1946, Leonora married Yrjo Alfred Paloheimo, and together they had the foresight to maintain the ranch as a living history museum. Two hundred acres are dedicated to the museum, leaving an additional two hundred acres of protected “green space.”

A few of the wooden buildings that are part of the living history exhibit.

Sierra Village representing Northern New Mexico in the 1800s.

El Rancho de Las Golondrinas appears much as it would have in the 1700s and 1800s. The rolling hills are dotted with buildings, some original and a few replicas, and lifestyle methods remain true to their origins. From cider and wine making, sheep shearing, blacksmithing, wool dyeing, carpentry and weaving, to crop-growing and milling, hide-tanning, basket making and more, all are done by traditional methods.

Ristra making from their own crop of chiles in La Placita (courtyard, well & horno ovens) representing the 1700s.

Kids having fun making tortillas to cook in the horno ovens. Delicioso!

Kids making tortillas to cook in the horno ovens. Add butter and marmalade -Delicioso!

Children always have fun at Las Golondrinas. Each festival brings with it a variety of themed activities for the whole family; making tortillas by hand, archery, and treading grapes, are just a few.

Crushing Grapes at Harvest Festival.

Giant bubbles at the Renaissance Fair.

Don’t try this at home! Jousting is performed by professionals during the Renaissance Fair.

Delicious bread fresh from the horno is drenched in honey butter and enjoyed by all.

Fresh bread, hot from the horno is served with honey butter.

As well as being a great living history museum, Las Golondrinas’ authenticity makes it a popular location for film-makers. Such films as The Missing, starring Cate Blanchett and directed by Ron Howard, All The Pretty Horses, starring Matt Damon and directed by Billy Bob Thornton, are just two of many films shot here. Below is a set image from the filming of the popular TV series, Gunslingers.

Filming of the TV series Gunslingers 2.

And let’s not forget the swallows. If you visit, especially in the spring, the area is filled with swallows building their nests and skimming the waters.

If you’re planning a visit to New Mexico, or are a local, remember to include a a day at this much-loved paraje on El Camino Real.

Schedule: The museum is open for visitors: June – October, Wednesday – Sunday: 10am – 4pm. Guided tours are free with admission and depart at 10.30am, (except when there’s a special event). Self-guided tours optional.

Contact El Rancho de Las Golondrinas at (505)471-2261 for more info. Click link for map.

2017 Special events begin in June and run through October.

June 3rd & 4^th:Spring and Fiber Fest: Life on the Trails of the Southwest 10am-4pm

June 17^th & 18^th – Herb & Lavender Festival. 10am-4pm

July 1st & 2nd – Santa Fe Wine Festival. Noon-6pm

July 22nd & 23rd – Viva Mexico. 10am-4pm

NEW: August 5^th & 6^th – Panza Llena, Corazón Contento: New Mexico Food Fest 10am-4pm

August 19th & 20th – Adventures in Territorial New Mexico

Sept 2nd & 3rd – Fiesta de los Niños

September 16^th & 17^th – Santa Fe Renaissance Fair. 10am-5pm

September 30 & Oct 1st – Harvest Festival. 10am-4pm

NEW: October 28th -Halloween Event “Spirits of New Mexico’s Past”

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For more information on Santa Fe go to: SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide & Concierge.

Santa Fe Spa Days & Valentine’s Getaways

Posted on January 29, 2016 by Maria Johnson

It’s well known Santa Fe is a top destination in the U.S. for world-class spa getaways, which makes being a local pretty fun too. If you’re like me and can’t seem to tear yourself away from work to take a multi-day vacation, then a couple of hours in a Santa Fe spa can rejuvenate your body, mind and spirit.

Since February is for lovers and the ideal time to find that special treat for Valentines, I thought I’d take advantage of being in such close proximity to blissful states of “spa-dom” and sneak in a couple of precious hours vacating from the daily grind, to give you a little insight into some top Santa Fe spas. Here are three of my faves offering great specials for Valentines…

No, this isn’t me in the photo. It’s the Rose Petal Bath for Couples at Absolute Nirvana

Absolute Nirvana Spa is a wonderful, intimately cozy boutique spa providing luxurious, pampering treatments in authentic Balinese style. The spa is located in the gardens of the Madeleine Inn, tucked in a quiet historic compound just a couple of blocks from the Plaza.

The owners have taken great care to ensure their guests experience authentic treatments with a Balinese philosophy, organic ingredients, and a tranquil, relaxing environment that melts away all stress and tension. Such names as Heaven on Earth, Chocolate Decadence, Foot Fetish, and Bliss grace their treatment menus and awaken the senses. Unique, hand-carved granite tubs set an exotic tone for their highly popular “Rose Petal Baths”.

I recently referred a couple to Absolute Nirvana for a romantic getaway Rose Petal Bath and Couples Massage, and they said, “…it really was nirvana!” Conde Nast Traveler rates them “One of the hottest new spas in the world.”

I experienced a luxurious facial filled with delicious aromas from oils and creams that my dry skin soaked up like a sponge. The youthful glow stayed with me for days afterward. Absolute Nirvana offers a wide range of treatments from 1 hour to 3+ hours. Prices range from $115 – $250 +. They have special “add-on” treatments you can keep piling on to enhance the heavenly experience, starting at $30. There are always tempting special offers and packages each month. See their Valentine’s Chocolate and Roses Special for February.

Call (505)983-7942 to book at Absolute Nirvana and mention Santa Fe Selection for 10% off your treatment, year-round (not valid with other special discounts). Open 7 days by appointment. See here for more info.

A few organic and exotic ingredients used for treatments at Absolute Nirvana.

A few organic and exotic ingredients used in treatments at Absolute Nirvana.

The Wo’P’in Spa is a little slice of heaven too. Wo’ P’in means “medicine mountain” in the Native Tewa language. Their facilities are at the Hilton Buffalo Thunder Resort, just a short 15-minute drive north from downtown Santa Fe. They offer a broad range of treatments with an indigenous Native American theme and philosophy. The men’s and women’s changing/shower areas each have private access to soothing saunas, steam rooms, and jacuzzi tubs. The spacious couples treatment room also has a jacuzzi tub.

Wo’P’in Spa Couples treatment room with jacuzzi.

At Wo ‘P’in I experienced a deep-tissue massage with the added melting effect of steamy hot towels, and a luscious facial and pedi pampering. Let’s just say I was a very happy noodle afterward. They offer a wide range of treatments lasting 50 minutes to packages lasting up to 4+ hours. Prices range from $120 – $400+ with further pampering add-ons available. I spotted their unique four-hour treatment, Spirit of the River Journey, which includes a Hot Stone Massage, Dead Sea Wrap and Flowering River Pedicure, that I wouldn’t mind sacrificing an afternoon of work for, someday. Each month, they offer new discounted specials too. Open 7 days by appointment. Call (505)819-2140.

Luxurious Indoor Pool close by Wo’ P’in Spa.

Whether you want a relaxing massage or if you’re in need of something aimed at helping you recuperate from that injury, they should be on your list.

This is just a sampling of the many world-class spas in our area. When planning your weekend, day off, or vacation in Santa Fe, remember to include a few hours for a spa treatment. It’ll be a memory that will stay with you, and have you coming back for more.

Happy Valentine’s month Santa Fe!! ~ Cheers!

For more information on Santa Fe travel, lodging, things to do, restaurants and more, please go to SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide & Concierge.

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Ski Update & Happy Holidays from Santa Fe!

Posted on November 29, 2015 by Maria Johnson

A big “thank you” to our loyal subscribers! Here’s wishing you and yours a warm, safe and Happy Holiday Season from Santa Fe Selection!

The root cellar at El Rancho de Las Golondrinas.

If you’re looking to hit the slopes this winter, we’re off to a great start this year.

Skier in Flight at Ski Santa Fe.

For the first time in a long time, Ski Santa Fe opened on Thanksgiving Day and it’s promising to be a terrific ski season. 58 inches have already fallen. 7 of 7 lifts are open. 98% of the mountain is open. And the forecast is for more snow! So, we’ll see you soon!

It’s been a while since I posted, but I’ll be gearing up for monthly posts again soon. I’m looking forward to sending you some interesting Santa Fe insights in the New Year, so stay tuned. In the meantime, for more information on Santa Fe, lodging, restaurants, unique shops, museums, tours and activities, go to SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide & Concierge.

If you’d like assistance finding the best lodging to suit your needs and budget, I’m here to help. With my local connections, I can often find you better discounts than third party sites and you will be booked directly with the hotel. Please contact me at info@SantaFeSelection.com. Or call (505)470-2991.

May 2016 be kind to us all!

Cheers!

Maria

Santa Fe Selection Made News in Germany

Posted on September 14, 2015 by Maria Johnson

Earlier this year, I hosted a freelance journalist, Bernadette Conrad, visiting from Germany. She stayed for a few short days, and I showed her around. She was interested in the people who have come to Santa Fe from elsewhere and created lives that are intertwined with the land, history, culture and people of this special place. Thanks to the Guadalupe Inn, The Cowgirl, Santa Fe Spirits, C.G.Higgins Confections, and Keshi-The Zuni Connection, she had a wonderful time and met just a few of the people who love Santa Fe, and found “home” here. Her article published twice, first in the German publication Südkurier, in the August 15th, 2015 Sunday supplement, Travel & Leisure section. And then again in the Swiss publication, Ostschweiz am Sonntag on September 13th, 2015. A big “Thank you to Bernadette!!”

Below are the images of the actual printed pages. Please scroll below for the excellent translation by local Concierge, Jaycee McCreary. Thank you Jaycee!!

A small shot of the Sudkurier Travel & Leisure page, including images.

A small shot of the page shown in Ostschweiz am Sonntag.

South Courier

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Travel and Leisure

Images: Adobe houses (Lehm house, left photo) are typical for Santa Fe. Maria Johnson and Nicholas Ballas (middle photo) enjoy living there very much. Canyon Road, an artist’s street, is a highlight of the city (right photo).

The People of Santa Fe – By Bernadette Conrad

The city in the US state of New Mexico is more defined than any other in America through its indigenous peoples.

Look how the city beds itself in the landscape… We are standing at more than 3500 meters in altitude – around us scrub, aspen, and higher up even still some last snowflakes. Mount Baldy is the highest mountain around Santa Fe. Because the little capital of New Mexico already stands at 2100 meters, one loses a bit of the magnitude.

Maria Johnson, 51, tall, blonde, and with lively eyes under dark eyebrows, has a loving nature in which she speaks of the city that lies about her. The sand-colored dice which are the adobe houses strewn about the desert landscape really evoke a harmony, as if the place was not built, but rather evolved. “There are few cities in America that are as strongly defined through history, and through the connection to the indigenous peoples of the land”, added Maria. She still remembers the moment 30 years ago quite well: When she was a young model, she saw the famous photos of Edward Curtis “The Vanishing Race” from 1904. It shows a long ago glimpse of Indian inhabitants who ride slowly out of the picture. “This picture must be made in a place that has soul”, such are her thoughts. Thus, she moved her career from England to New York, knowing that she was seeking something other than the glitzy world of modeling. “I was leading an unquiet, nomadic life, and promised myself that I wouldn’t give up until I found a place to live that would be filled with soul.” At that time, she traveled to where the photo was found – to Santa Fe. That was that. At the end of the 1980s, she purchased a home, continued to work as a model, and at the same time studied psychology and humanities at the college of arts. “New Mexico is also called ‘the land of enchantment’, said Maria as we slowly made our way down the mountain and towards Santa Fe.

It is the oldest capital in the USA. In 1610, Santa Fe was declared to be the capital of “New Spain” by Spanish colonialists. Today, the little city with a population of 70,000 inhabitants has been long known as a city of artists. The mighty Governor’s Palace, a massive colonial building, lies along one side of the square plaza. The Indian inhabitants sit on blankets under the long canopy day in and day out, and sell their jewelry. Overall, the architecture of the adobe houses is flat walled with rounded corners, in the style of the Indian pueblos. There are 19 pueblos throughout New Mexico.

The famous “Santa Fe Trail” also ended there at the plaza. It was a trading route between Missouri and New Mexico that was founded in 1821. One can still feel the entire, exciting history in the atmosphere – in some old-fashioned hotel or also in the shops with colorful wares, accented by authentic Indian-made jewelry. “What does ‘authentic’ actually mean?” Maria steered us towards a shop named “Keshi”, which means “welcome” in the Zuni Indian language. A painted sign alongside the plaza reads “One can only understand if he knows the story of the shop and the people”. She introduced me to the white-haired Robin Dunlap, who founded Keshi many years ago. At that time, Robin was a teacher, who while raising her daughter, went to Zuni pueblo to teach. “My worth changed through the Zuni people”, she said, “as my daughter and I were taken in and we became part of the community, and this has defined who we are still today.” Robin founded a coop as a way of making Zuni art more public. Today, the two ladies run the shop, and are able to obtain fair prices for the Zuni people. It is those people like Robin that Maria brings to her blog santafeselection.com; those who are dedicated with initiative to their operation, those who before anything oblige themselves to have solidarity with the origins of Santa Fe and its inhabitants, and to do so with a soul-filled spirit.

The windows are full of filigreed “petit-point” art, which is typical of the Zuni. Like finely worked splinters, the turquoise and coral is set in silver. But at the center of Zuni art is the fetish (an honor of certain objects in the belief of supernatural properties); bears, badgers, spirits, wolves, eagles, animal figures cut from stone or semi-precious stone, the smallest being 2 centimeters, and the largest meter high. “Fetishes make their spirit and special powers available to those who are near them”, explains Robin. Every fetish purchased at Keshi comes with a small bag of ground corn.

The paths throughout Santa Fe are short – almost everywhere can be reached by foot, which is very un-American. Also the life of Maria’s fellow countryman, Colin Keegan, began by coincidence, and is now being led with the elan of a fulfilled dream. It began with a piece of land on which way too many apple trees were growing, in a way one would wonder what to do with all of the fruit. “Apple brandy” beamed Keegan. Calvados. But also whiskey in a Scottish still. In the meantime, he has received highest honors for his “high spirits”, with gold and silver medals. Like Maria, he could also not imagine himself returning to live in Europe. “There is a distance not only in the landscape, but also in people”, Colin Keegan said. Perhaps the two go together.

At the end of the day, Maria shows me Canyon Road – that famous art street lined with galleries and sculpture gardens. As we wandered by life-sized cowboys, Indian figures, jewelry and ceramics, Maria said proudly “Artists in the area want to stay here, and they want to come here from everywhere in the world.” Such is the case with the Swiss writer Milena Moser, who fell in love with a cute adobe house on Canyon Road, and then made her home here.

As we sat over margaritas at “Cowgirl”, the co-owner Nicholas Ballas came to our table. He moved here from Boston 30 years ago. “The mountains here called to me, and became my fate”, he said with a wide grin. When he is not managing over his burgers, margaritas, and daily live music, he works as an actor in LA. “There are a lot of people here who have a true spirit of adventure. Seekers? Pilgrims? Whatever the case, they never leave.”

The second Swiss article in Ostschweiz am Sonntag is almost identical with a few edits and the addition of C.G Higgins Confections.
The People of Santa Fe

The city in the US state of New Mexico is more defined than any other in America through its indigenous peoples.

By Bernadette Conrad

A Spiritual Home

She still remembers the moment 30 years ago quite well: When she was a young model, she saw the famous photo by Edward Curtis “The Vanishing Race” from 1904. It shows a long ago glimpse of Indian inhabitants who ride slowly out of the picture. “This picture must be made in a place that has soul”, such are her thoughts. Thus, she moved her career from England to New York, knowing that she was seeking something other than the glitzy world of modeling. “I was leading an unquiet, nomadic life, and promised myself that I wouldn’t give up until I found a place to live that would have a sense of spirit.” At that time, she traveled to where the photo was from – to Santa Fe. That was that. At the end of the 1980s, she purchased a home, continued to work as a model, and at the same time studied psychology and humanities at the college of arts. “New Mexico is also called ‘the land of enchantment’, said Maria as we slowly made our way down the mountain and towards Santa Fe.

Tribes in 19 Pueblos

It is the oldest capital in the USA. In 1610, Santa Fe was declared to be the capital of “New Spain” by Spanish colonialists. Today, the little city with a population of 70,000 inhabitants has been long known as a city of artists. The mighty Governor’s Palace, a massive colonial building, lay along one side of the plaza. The Indian inhabitants sit on blankets under the long canopy day in and day out, and sell their jewelry. Overall, the architecture of the adobe houses is flat walled with rounded corners, in the style of the Indian pueblos. There are 19 pueblos throughout New Mexico.

As a teacher for the Zuni Pueblo

“What does ‘authentic’ actually mean?” Maria steered us towards a shop named “Keshi”, which means “welcome” in the Zuni Indian language. A painted shed alongside the plaza reads “One can understand if he knows the story of the shop and the people”. She introduced me to the white-haired Robin Dunlap, who founded Keshi many years ago. At that time, Robin was a teacher, who while raising her daughter, went to Zuni pueblo to teach. “My worth changed through the Zuni people”, she said, “As my daughter and I were taken in and we became part of the community, and this has defined who we are still today.”

Robin founded a co-op as a way of making Zuni art more public. Today, the two ladies run the shop, and are able to obtain fair prices for the Zuni people. It is those people like Robin that Maria brings to her blog santafeselection.com; those who are dedicated with initiative to their operation, those who before anything oblige themselves to have solidarity with the origins of Santa Fe and its inhabitants, and to do so with a soulful spirit.

“Spirit” from the festishes

The windows are full of filigreed “petit-point” art, which is typical of the Zuni. Like finely worked splinters, the turquoise and coral is set in silver. But at the center of Zuni art is the fetish (an honor of certain objects in the belief of supernatural properties); bears, badgers, spirits, wolves, eagles, animal figures cut from stone or semi-precious stone, the smallest being 2 centimeters, and the largest a meter high. “Fetishes make their spirit and special powers available to those who connect with them”, explains Robin. Every fetish purchased at Keshi comes with a small bag of ground corn.

But now it is time for coffee. Just a few streets away, the aroma of coffee and chocolate wafts from “C.G. Higgins Artisan Chocolate & Chuck’s Nuts Originals” shop. We sink into the little coffee house chairs and let Chuck – white hair with steel-blue eyes – talk about how he began to decide on his choice of career, as he experienced it at the age of twelve. It was a small family business, in which he ate homemade “nut rolls” for the first time, and that awoke his ambition. He wanted to produce something just as fabulous himself. Chuck grew up in the Midwest, and he tried his luck in different places. But it is in Santa Fe where he found his happiness. “The people are somehow special here – perhaps we all live here in such good harmony because no one takes it for granted that we can live here.” One could spend a lot of time trying Chuck’s “Specials”: caramel-popcorn, or chili pecan brittle, raspberry truffles, or homemade ice cream.

Keegan’s Apple Brandy

The paths throughout Santa Fe are short – almost everywhere can be reached by foot, which is very un-American. Also the life of Maria’s fellow countryman, Colin Keegan, began by coincidence, and is now being led with the elan of a fulfilled dream. It began with a piece of land on which way too many apple trees were growing, in a way one would wonder what to do with all of the fruit. “Apple brandy” beamed Keegan. Calvados. But also whiskey in a true Scottish style. In the meantime, he has received highest honors for his “high spirits”, with gold and silver medals. Like Maria, he could also not imagine himself returning to live in Europe. “There is a distance not only in the landscape, but also in the people”, Colin Keegan said. Perhaps the two go together.

Cowboys and Chiefs

At the end of the day, Maria shows me Canyon Road – that famous art street lined with galleries and sculpture gardens. On the way there, she met up with a famous Indian artist, who was just returning from a market. He tells me that some artists, like himself, concentrate on a single motif, his “power animal” being the owl – and he carefully un-wrapped a gleaming black figurine to show to me. As we wandered by life-sized cowboys, and Indian figures, jewelry and ceramics, Maria said proudly “Artists in the area want to stay here, and they want to come here from everywhere in the world.” The Swiss writer Milena Moser moved here a short time ago, and lives somewhere nearby. The call of Santa Fe even made it across the sea to Zurich.
Photo: Both found happiness in Santa Fe – Maria Johnson and Chuck Higgins

From The Heart – Native American Pueblo Pottery

Posted on August 28, 2015 by Maria Johnson

From earth to art, a world of tradition, culture and reverence lies at the heart of Native American pueblo pottery. Its history dates back 7500 years.

Native American simple Cooking Pot. Circa 1300s.

Circa 1300s -Native American cooking jar from the Santa Fe area, possibly Arroyo Hondo Pueblo.

Today, a number of Native potters are known around the world for their exquisite forms and unsurpassed craftsmanship. Some of the better known names include Maria Martinez, Margaret Tafoya, Popovi Da and Tony Da, to mention a few.

Rare large plate/shallow bowl by Margaret Tafoya of Santa Clara Pueblo. Circa 1935. Image courtesy Lyn A. Fox Gallery, Santa Fe.

Naturally, pottery has always been a highly valued necessity of life in Native pueblo homes. All forms from water jars and dough bowls, to storage jars, plates and many more, were hand-made by family members. These necessary utensils were often so beautifully well crafted and uniquely painted that they would endure the passage of time and heavy use to be passed down from generation to generation.

Two pots at Lyn A. Fox Gallery: left is an Acoma fine line jar by Lucy Lewis, c. 1950; right is a Zia 4-color water jar with rim wear from pueblo home use, attributed to Harviana Toribio, c. 1920

The process of creating pottery — gathering the mud clays from nearby land, mixing the colored slips, firing in ground pits, and adapting just the right sized paint brush from yucca strands — remains one of spiritual reverence for some Native potters to this day. Not until relatively recently did the appreciation of Native American pottery as a valuable art form begin.

1922 Picuris Pueblo Pottery exhibit at the first Indian Market in Santa Fe. Image courtesy of Palace of the Governors photo archive.

In 1922, the first Indian Arts Fair took place in Santa Fe, which subsequently helped save the art from dwindling by encouraging the Native potters to make large forms as art pieces for competition and sale. This would also lead to more innovative and highly collectible contemporary creations.

1930s early art market piece. Cochiti dough bowl, with inner small bird, attributed to Ignacita Suiña. 8″deep x15″ wide.

Until then, the presence of sellable larger pieces was dwindling because Native potters were mostly making small, portable pieces as souvenirs for tourists. During the late 1800s, often referred to as the Harvey Era, the Atchison, Topeka, Santa Fe Railway brought travelers to the Southwest. The stops en route would allow tourists to buy small pieces of Native art and craft that were easy to take home in their luggage.

Fred Harvey Indian Building. Albuquerque. Train travelers stretch their legs and shop from Native vendors while waiting to continue their journey.

Below is an example of a souvenir, or tourist piece. These boots are only 3 inches long by 2 inches tall. Such small pieces are generating interest from collectors once more. It’s rare to find such a small, intact pair, since most were broken, discarded, or lost over the years. In 1910, they probably cost as little as 25 cents. Not so now. They have recently been priced at $650.

Rare pair of tiny boots from Isleta Pueblo. Sold as souvenirs at train station circa 1910.

Because of the fine Native American craftsmanship, and the enduring beauty and cultural significance of forms of all sizes, pueblo pottery is now one of the most sought-after and highly-valued Native arts. The market is vast, and filled with the potential for many expensive mistakes to be made by a novice enthusiast, such as myself.

Lyn Fox is one of Santa Fe’s leading Native American pottery aficionados. He works closely with pueblo artists, supporting them in their craft and teaching his knowledge to those of us in search of quality historical and contemporary forms. It helps to know someone like Lyn if you want to avoid common pitfalls.

Lyn Fox at the Lyn A. Fox Gallery on Canyon Road.

He learned first-hand how easily an enthusiast can be misled into buying works that are poorly made, not authentic, or overvalued.

Lyn began his collection with the purchase of a small, and quite misshapen storyteller piece from a potter’s home in Cochiti Pueblo more than 25 years ago. Below are some fine examples of storyteller pieces.

Storytellers by Ada Suina, Cochiti Pueblo, 1980’s-’90’s

It was at that time he became enthralled with the heart and soul of the Native people, their culture, and this particular craft. He has since dedicated his time and energy to working closely with artists, building his knowledge of Native American pueblo pottery and sharing it with enthusiasts. At the Lyn A. Fox Gallery on Canyon Road, he works to support young, up-and-coming pueblo artists such as Dominique Toya of Jemez Pueblo, while also continuing his search for rare historical forms.

Dominique recently demonstrated her work at Lyn’s gallery. It was fascinating to watch as she brought a beautiful piece to life from coils of clay.

Dominique Toya - Jemez Pueblo demonstrating the making of a Seed Pot.

Dominique Toya – Jemez Pueblo. Demonstrating the making of a traditional Seed Pot.

She has won many awards for her work. At the 2015 SWAIA Indian Market, Dominique won three ribbons, including the prestigious Blue Ribbon for Best Pottery Miniatures.

Dominique Toya of Jemez Pueblo demonstrating the creation of a Seed Pot at Lyn A. Fox Gallery, Canyon Road.

Dominique Toya of Jemez Pueblo. The seed pots are enclosed pieces, said to contain seeds or other items of personal value.

Despite the inventions of the kiln and potter’s wheel, Dominique continues to use the traditional methods passed down through her family.

A traditional firing by Dominique Toya. Photo: Dominique Toya.

From clay gathering and traditional pit firing, to painting, she says, “the whole experience is a way of honoring the earth and our Native heritage.”

Dominique Toya - Jemez Pueblo. Carving in the decoration to the seed pot.

Dominique Toya – Jemez Pueblo. Carving the decoration into the seed pot.

Although she continues to work in much the same way as her ancestors did, her creativity expands the form’s beauty and design in contemporary ways.

Dominique Toya – Jemez Pueblo. Finished Seed Pot. The special mica clay blend that she gathers from her home casts a glow to the perfectly carved piece.

Lyn’s gallery shelves are filled with contemporary and historic pieces, some dating back to the 1800s. He has a passion for the historic pieces and calls them “miracles of use, love, survival, respect, creativity and family history.” And among those we should thank are the generations of collectors who have loved and protected these fragile works, so that new owners can acquire and enjoy them today and into the future.

Zuni Storage Jar circa 1800s. A family heirloom well used and still much loved.

As he showed me this beautiful Zuni storage jar, he said, “You can appreciate the special skill set it takes to do large pieces. And what it takes to paint the design of such fine marks with strands of yucca leaf. Its coloration is beautiful; the red is deep and the black is strong.” He continued to explain how this piece had been used by the original Native family so much it has become potato-chip thin along the rim. It is unusable now, but it didn’t break and has become a rare, beautiful treasure.

Historic Pots: Zia 4-Color Large Storage Jar with Hide and Putch Native Repair, c. 1900; right. A Large Polychrome Storage Jar with Birds and Rainbow Bands by Seferina Bell, c. 1945

Historic Pots: Right: Zia 4-Color Large Storage Jar with Hide and Putch Native Repair, c. 1900; Left: A Large Polychrome Storage Jar with Birds and Rainbow Bands by Seferina Bell, c. 1945

Over time, magnificent pieces were traded, gifted, lost, or passed along through families, which adds an air of mystery that enhances their majesty and enduring beauty. In today’s rapid-fire environment where so much is disposable, I look at these historic and contemporary pieces as anchors to a world where quality and longevity matter.

Even when families part with these heirlooms, it’s a credit to the masterful potters that their history and family traditions, including the unique designs specific to a particular family, are passed down through generations, and continue to be loved and appreciated, spreading the admiration for their culture throughout the world.

For more information on Native American Pueblo Pottery and the Lyn A. Fox Gallery, click this link, or you may call Lyn Fox directly at (505) 577-0835.

If you have any questions about visiting Santa Fe, please email me at: info@SantaFeSelection.com, or call (505) 470-2991. Or go to our Travel Guide at SantaFeSelection.com to access easy maps, tips and ideas to help you plan your visit.

Thank you for reading this post! If you would like to receive my monthly articles, please go to the home page and enter your email in the “subscribe” field. See you in Santa Fe!!

The Faces of Folk Art – Santa Fe Folk Art Market

Posted on July 20, 2015 by Maria Johnson

Each year, the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market brings to town an amazing display of folk art from around the world. As many as 143 display booths cover Milner Plaza at Museum Hill. Thousands of visitors flock to explore the wonderful art from continents near and far.

Santa Fe International Folk Art Market Entrance, 2015.

Just one tent of booths at the market on Museum Hill.

This is just one side of one tent of booths at the market on Museum Hill.

As I wandered through a sea of folk, from booth to booth, country to country, I was struck by the beauty and uniqueness of the myriad faces of the artists and representatives. Many wore traditional dress that tells something of their art and culture. For those of us with a traveler’s spirit, it’s nice to stir appreciation for the cultural diversity that still exits in today’s increasingly “global” environment.

I took hundreds of photos but here are a select few to take you around the world. I hope you enjoy the trip.

Vietnam – Ta May Ly. Red Dao embroidered textiles, tunics, clothing, bridal and ceremonial scarves, headdresses, hats, necklaces.

Ghana – Recycled glass beads from bottles symbolize wealth and status in Krobo culture.

Transylvanian-Hungarian painted and carved furniture, home accessories and crosses.

Kazakhstan-Kazakh jewelry; carved, ornamented boxes, mirrors and hair ornaments.

India – Meghuben Rabari- Embroidered applique, patchwork shawls, bags, dolls, wall hangings & accessories.

Guatamala – Carmen Maldonado Garcia – Hooked rugs with traditional Mayan and alfombras designs.

Kenya – Maasai bead jewelry, beaded clothing and accessories.

Israel- Naama Al Sana. Negev Bedouin embroidered dresses, bags and home accessories.

Mexico – Guadalupe Hermosillo Escobar: Forged metal roof crosses of San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas.

Kazakhstan – Aigul Zhanserikova – Works of wool felt and silk, pillows, scarves, bags and clothing.

Mali – Mohamed El Maouloud Ag Hamid: Sterling silver Tuareg jewelry and leather boxes.

Spain- Jewelry of silver filagre and pendants of tiny dried flowers.

Lao PDR – Tai Lue, Katu and Phoutai textiles; Yao Mien embroideries.

Nigeria – Handmade leather cushions, bags, accessories.

Peru – Hand carved gourds.

Timor-Leste, Indonesia. Woven textiles, clothing, scarves and boxes.

South Africa – Nomvuselelo LadyPeace Mavundla: Creates accessories, baskets and bowls using colorful telephone wire.

Mexico – Silvia Medina Hernandez. Clay bowls, vases & cookware.

Philippines. Backstrap loom weaving textiles.

Namibia – Basketry, ostrich eggshell and PVC jewelry, and beaded art cloths.

Tibet. Kalsang Tashi. Thangka paintings.

Tibet. Kalsang Tashi holding a work in progress. Thangka paintings.

Huichol Indian, Mexico – Rosy Valadez, helping her brother, Rafael Cilau Valadez with his booth of Wixarika yarn paintings.

This three-day event has grown in popularity since its beginnings in 2004. It is now one of the many wonderful annual markets and events happening during Santa Fe summers. If you’re planning to visit the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, be sure to get your tickets in advance, if you can. They usually go on sale in early May via their website, and the Folk Art Alliance recommend booking through the website as the preferred method to ensure you have tickets. It is usually held the second weekend in July, but check this link for current dates, more info and for the link to purchase tickets.

I also recommend you book your hotel rooms as early as you can. Click this link for a list of preferred lodging. If you need any assistance finding the right lodging for your needs and budget, you may contact me directly at the email and phone number below.

If you have any questions about visiting Santa Fe, please email me: info@SantaFeSelection.com, or call (505) 470-2991. Or go to our Travel Guide at SantaFeSelection.com to access easy maps, tips and ideas to help you plan your visit.

Thank you for reading this post! If you would like to receive my monthly articles, please go to the home page and enter your email in the “subscribe” field. See you in Santa Fe!!

Allan Houser: Farewell to Footprints Ceremony

Posted on June 23, 2015 by Maria Johnson

Footprints: The Inspiration and Influence of Allan Houser. For almost a year, seven Allan Houser bronze sculptures have graced Milner Plaza at Museum Hill in the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture’s Footprints exhibit. The outdoor sculpture installation was in honor of the 100th year of Allan Houser’s birth, and the remarkable influence he had on Native American art, artists, and the art world at large.

“Homeward Bound” – Allan Houser. Bronze.

On May 30, 2015, the exhibit said its farewells in true Native American style. Houser relatives of the Fort Sill Apache tribe came from Oklahoma to perform music, songs, and the sacred Dance of the Mountain Spirits in honor of the event. It is rare for such tribal ceremonies to be photographed, and I am grateful I was granted permission to do so.

Bob Haozous (Chiricahua Apache). Watching the celebration.

The installation included the works of celebrated Native American artists, whose work and lives were highly influenced by Houser, as his students and protègès.

The list included two of Houser’s sons, Bob Haozous and Phillip Mangas Haozous, who are renowned artists in their own right. Other artists whose works were shown included Larry Ahvakana, Don Chunestudey, Cliff Fragua, Craig Dan Goseyun, Rollie Grandbois, Doug Hyde, Oreland C. Joe, Tony Lee, Estella Loretto, Bill Prokopiof, and Robert Shorty.

Dorothy Grandbois, guest curator of the exhibit, wrote what Allan’s son Bob said of his father’s work and influence: “Allan was dedicated to depicting the dignity of native people. He expected us (his sons) to find our own paths and commit to our decisions.”

This event saw the coming together of many tribal traditions from the Chiricahua Apache, Turtle Mountain Chippewa, Southern Ute, Navajo, Jemez Pueblo, and Hopi.

Singers of Native traditional songs drummed and sang at the foot of Craig Dan Goseyun’s “Mountain Spirit Dancer”.

Craig Dan Goseyun of the San Carlos Apache tribe was an apprentice of Allan Houser’s from 1984 – 1990. He dreamed of doing “big, monumental sculptures that would remind people on the reservation of their culture and also raise their self-esteem and make them feel good about who they are.”

Philip Mangas Haozous watching the singers before he performs the Native flute songs he learned from his father.

Philip Mangas Haozous watching the singers before performing the Native flute songs he learned from his father.

Philip Mangas Haozous

Round Dancer Pricilla Gooday. Fort Sill Apache.

Pricilla Gooday was kind enough to let me take her picture before the dances began. The drums and calls of the Mountain Spirit Dancers were echoing through the arroyo as they practiced out of sight of onlookers. I was not permitted to watch them.

Round Dancers – Fort Sill Apache.

The Round Dance is a wonderful tradition where all are invited to participate. The drums and singers keep the beat as a large circle of family and friends dance around the central fire.

Apache Round Dancers

Houser’s wife Anna Marie attended, and even as she approaches her 103rd birthday, she participated in the Round Dance with a few family members and friends.

Anna Maria and family taking a tour in the Round Dance.

Anna Marie with friends and family taking a tour in the Round Dance.

Anna Maria Gallegos Haozous turns 103 in August 2015.

Anna Marie Haozous turns 103 in August 2015.

Nakotah LaRance, Cirque du Soleil performer and six-time world champion Hoop dancer, worked wonders with his athletic dance. While he danced in time to the fast pace of the drums, he was in constant motion, gracefully creating images and patterns with up to five hoops.

Nakotah LaRance

Nakotah LaRance.

Nakotah LaRance

The Dance of the Mountain Spirits is a sacred ritual that takes place as the sun is setting. The twilight added to the magical air as the dance began, performed by the Gooday Family, Ft. Sill Apache Traditional Dance Group.

Fort Sill Apache – Mountain Spirit Dancers. Performed by the Gooday Family. Fort Sill Apache Traditional Dance Group.

Mountain Spirit Dance – Fort Sill Apache Gooday Family.

Mountain Spirit Dancers. – Gooday Family. Fort Sill Apache Traditional Dance Group.

They first honored the four directions and then danced until the light of the fire replaced the light of the sun.

Museum Hill’s Milner Plaza will not be the same without these beautiful statues. Fortunately, for now, the museum has retained a collection of pieces that remain for public viewing.

Many thanks to David Rettig of the Allan Houser Gallery, Anna Marie and the Houser Family, and all the performers, for permission to take these pictures.

For more information on Allan Houser go to: http://santafeselection.com/galleries/allan-houser-gallery

For more information on the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture go to: http://santafeselection.com/museums/museum-indian-arts-culture

References: Footprints: The Inspiration and Influence of Allan Houser. Museum of Indian Arts & Culture.

Thank you for reading my article. Please sign up to receive my monthly posts on the people, culture and history of Santa Fe, by going to the home page and entering your email address in the “subscribe” field. Cheers! ~ Maria.

Santa Fe School of Cooking-The Making of a Foodie

Posted on May 27, 2015 by Maria Johnson

Santa Fe is world-renowned for its culinary arts, and Santa Fe School of Cooking is a one-stop destination where you can experience and learn about unique Northern New Mexican and Southwestern cuisine with myriad cooking classes, restaurant tours, and culinary demonstrations.

I love food, but I can’t say I’m a true foodie, and I’m not a culinary talent by any stretch, so I was more than a little curious to see the effect a few different activities at the top cooking school in New Mexico would have on me. I decided to dedicate enough time on three different days to take a restaurant tour, a demo class, and a hands-on experience. I expected to be the only local among many out-of-towners, but I was surprised to find I wasn’t, and glad I wasn’t the only glutton among them with a multi-day plan.

Santa Fe School of Cooking view from Johnson St.

Santa Fe School Of Cooking is the oldest and most popular school of its kind in New Mexico. It is located on the corner of Johnson and Guadalupe Streets. A culinary school is the latest of many incarnations this wonderful atelier-like space has undergone since its beginnings as a Packard dealership in 1948. In the 1980s; it was a night club, in 2002 it became a private museum called “The Awakening,” which closed in 2006. In 2012, SFSC revived it with extensive renovations, creating the ideal space for classes, demos and private events to “awaken” taste buds.

SFSC’s Market

You could spend a good hour in their specialty market, browsing through shelves filled with all things culinary – from packaged local produce, books, equipment, and clothing to chile seeds for your own garden.

RESTAURANT TOUR

My first actiivity was one of SFSC’s well-known restaurant tours. In a little over three hours, we experienced three top restaurants and a distillery tasting room. It’s not often that professional chefs are the guides for restaurant tours, but it’s a regular occurrence at SFSC. Chef Allen Smith is a Certified Culinary Professional, and the school’s Lead Instructor.

Our host Chef Allen Smith

He first worked with the school in 1998. He has since taken his talents to New York City and Dubai to apply his expertise in starting culinary schools and specialty markets. He returned to Santa Fe in 2012, ready for a quieter pace, and was happy to return to SFSC. Before we set off on our tour, he whetted our appetites with a delicious sample of Duck Tamale with Asian Sauce.

Duck Tamale with Asian Sauce

We stopped at Restaurant Martin, Santa Fe Spirits, Terra Cotta Wine Bistro and Georgia. At each location we were treated to samplings of chef-made culinary delights. The chefs were generous with their time, sharing insights into their unique methods and culinary ideologies.

Chef Martin Rios preparing salmon dishes for the group.

Santa Fe Spirits Tasting Room was as much a treat for the taste buds as for any lingering tensions we may have been hanging on to. Their artisanal creations are made from a variety of locally sourced botanicals. Things got nice and relaxed after a lineup of six small taster shots of their hand-crafted liqueurs.

A line up of the actual botanicals used in Santa Fe Spirits artisanal liqueurs.

The lineup of botanicals used in Santa Fe Spirits artisanal liqueurs.

DEMONSTRATION CLASS

“Molé and More!” was held in the school’s large dining/classroom. (Molé is pronounced mo-lay.) Our hosts were Chef Allen, accompanied by Chef de Cuisine Noe Cano, who has been with the school for seventeen years.

Class Kitchen and Dining Area. Chef Allen and Noe Cano.

The hanging mirrors and monitors above the workspace give everyone an unobstructed view of Chef in action. With a healthy mix of educational instruction, dry wit and personal anecdotes, Chef Allen brought his worldly expertise to the counter. As aromas wafted through the air (triggering the impulse to drool onto our notes), Chef worked the alchemy of ingredients into a delicious three-course lunch.

Chef Noe Cano keeps the wheels spinning in the back and front kitchens, making sure the demonstration runs smoothly and the large lunch portions are prepped and ready to eat on time.

The interior/back kitchen is also used for certain classes.

The School sources locally grown, organic ingredients, many from their own gardens, the gardens of their staff, and the local Farmer’s Market.

Chef Noe Cano prepping the Perfect Protein Salads.

I’ve lived in Santa Fe for almost thirty years and perhaps I can blame my English heritage for being born with the weakest taste buds ever – pathetically unable to tolerate much in the way of hot spice. So I was a bit nervous about my ability to handle the chile element in the meal, but Chef Allen deftly applied just the right amount to each dish. I was thrilled as my taste buds were gradually woken up from their bland English sleep.

Mole simmering nicely.

At last, I was able to understand what all the New Mexican-chile-lover fuss is about. The Perfect Protein Salad, Smoked Chicken Molé with Arroz Verde, Red Chile Glazed Carrots with Sweet Pickled Onions were followed by a crescendo of spice in the Flourless Spicy Mexican Chocolate Torte with Raspberry Glaze.

Chef Cano slicing the Spicy Mexican Chocolate Sauce.

Chef Cano slicing a Spicy Mexican Chocolate Torte.

The heat level was perfect: it coddled my tongue and taste buds to appreciate the enhanced flavors of each ingredient and left a lingering tingle. YAY! And all served with options of local wines and beers.

HANDS-ON CLASS

Day three, and it’s time for the Red Chile Workshop taught by Native American Chef Lois Ellen Frank. Chef Frank is an acclaimed Native American Chef, Native American foods historian, culinary anthropologist, and James Beard Award winning author.

Chef Lois Ellis Frank

I was intrigued to learn that chiles, which we frequently refer to as “chile peppers,” are not of the pepper family, and we have Columbus to thank for the confusion. He used the word “pimiento” to describe the spicy fruit, based on the peppercorns he knew. The word became “pepper” in translation. Chef went on to tell of their history, excellent medicinal and antimicrobial qualities, and the fact that they stimulate a wonderful endorphin effect on the brain – right up there with chocolate, exercise and sex!

The class at work on chile prep.

Next came roasting our own chiles and tomatoes and preparing the day’s menu: Handmade Corn Tortillas, Red Chile Sauce from pods and powder, and Roasted Tomato and Chipotle Salsa. Under the watchful eye of Chef Frank we overcame our initial inhibitions and were quite proud of the delicious results. This and any of SFSC’s many hands-on experiences are must-dos for anyone wanting to bring the flavors of the Southwest home.

HOW IT ALL BEGAN

The idea to create the school was inspired by Susan Curtis’s desire to change her business direction, and fill the nest left empty when her two daughters headed for college. Susan’s eldest daughter Nicole laughs as she tells of how her mom had made a list of things she’d like to do to. “Based on her upbringing on a ranch, her love for winter sports, and the connection with her family at the dinner table, her list consisted of being a ranch hand, a ski instructor or opening a cooking school.” And so it was to be…but the first day the school opened, Susan was too sick to be there. Nicole opened the doors and when she graduated, she soon brought her business degree and retail experience back home to work with her mum, developing what has become a much-loved Santa Fe institution.

For over 25 years, Santa Fe School of Cooking and its highly qualified, loyal staff (some of whom have been there for almost 20 years) have been imparting culinary wisdom to fans from all over the globe. Shattering any preconceived notions you may have of strict and intimidating cooking schools, Susan, Nicole and the staff enjoy keeping things light hearted. Classes are often personally introduced by Nicole, which sets the tone of a relaxed family atmosphere. “We don’t take ourselves too seriously here,” Nicole says. “It’s more like a show you learn from, than a classroom.”

Nicole and Susan

If you’re a devoted foodie, a hobbyist, a pro chef, or if (like me) you just love to eat good food, there’s no doubt, you can spend a few hours, or as much as a week at Santa Fe School of Cooking. You’ll be entertained, you’ll be educated and you’ll eat like a king.

There are many classes, tours, and demonstrations to choose from, and customized group and multi-day options are also available. Prices are reasonable, ranging from $78 to $115 per person. (see this link for updated classes, rates and schedules.)

I admit, I felt a bit bereft when I returned home with a considerably more sophisticated palate after all these wonderfully flavorful awakenings. I took one look at my little ol’ kitchen and knew – the unmonitored experiments were about to begin!! Does this make me a budding foodie? I’m willing to take the risk.

For more information on Santa Fe School of Cooking, class schedules and rates etc., please go to: http://santafeschoolofcooking.com/ and http://santafeselection.com/classes-workshops/santa-fe-school-of-cooking

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