The Annual Traditional Spanish Market is the oldest juried Spanish Market in the United States. The celebration includes festivals, music and cultural events centered around Santa Fe’s historic Plaza. Festivities culminate with the largest display of art from Hispanic artisans of New Mexico and Southern Colorado.
The Santa Fe Plaza and surrounding streets are lined with the white tent stalls and filled with excellent works of traditional art including retablos, jewelry, furniture, carvings, weavings and pottery, to mention a few. Regional foods, live music, dancing, and art demonstrations are all part of the celebration of this vibrant heritage.
The market began in 1926 when the Spanish Colonial Arts Society sponsored the event. In the 1930s it lost sponsorship, but persevered as a combined event held with the Indian Market. In 1965 the SCAS took up sponsorship again, but it wasn’t until 1972 that it reestablished independence and claimed the last weekend of July for its annual celebration.
Each July, as many as 80,000 people, including locals, visitors, collectors and enthusiasts flock to Santa Fe to experience this event. Hundreds of artists show their work and this is now known world-wide as the largest juried Spanish Market in the United States.
Though it may sound as if the streets are cramped with people, they’re not. The Plaza accommodates everyone with ease over the course of the weekend. Live performers take over the bandstand and rows of seats are available for spectators to sit in the shade.
It is an enjoyable, relaxed summer atmosphere where you can stroll at an easy pace, and take in the sights, sounds and flavors of this tradition.
The green Plaza lawns are a welcome cool spot for people to sit and for kids to play.
1st Prize Retablos Revival Artist – Catherine Robles-Shaw
Each year, the SCAS appoints a private panel of judges to award artists for their skills and distinctive works. The awards are funded by the Society and private contributors.
Grand Prize Winner – Ramon Jose Lopez
In 2002, SCAS founded the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art (as of 2024, is now the Nuevo Mexicano Heritage Arts Museum) which houses a collection of more than 3,700 pieces of historical and contemporary works. While it has a large dedicated exhibit for Spanish Colonial pieces, more than half of the space is dedicated to Spanish Market artists and 19th century New Mexico, and more. The Museum often purchases prize-winning pieces for their collections.
Juan Lopez Filagree Jewelry
Juan Lopez’ filagree silver jewelry is inspired by, “Anything I see,” he says with a beaming smile, “the clouds, flowers, people. It can come from anywhere.”
Juan and friend
The Phoenicians first invented filagree work in 1500 B.C. The Greeks, Italians and French have all put their own stamp on the work. For over 400 years, the Spanish have run with it beautifully, and Juan is happily continuing the tradition in his unique way.
Whether you’re interested in collecting or simply looking to enjoy a relaxed, festive atmosphere, the Traditional Spanish Market is a fun experience for everyone. If you’re traveling from out of state, it is a good idea to book your accommodations early in the year and arrive early to enjoy the Plaza’s festivities leading up to the weekend.
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New Mexico was the first wine country in the United States, dating back to the early 1600s. The first vines were planted in Senecu, a Piro Indian Pueblo in the southern part of the state, by Fray García de Zúñiga, a Franciscan, and a Capuchín monk named Antonio de Arteaga. Sacramental wines were vital to the missionaries, and the vines they brought from Europe, known as “mission grape” or Vitis Vinifera, are still grown here today. By the mid-1800s, the fertile Rio Grande Valley, from Bernalillo to Socorro and Las Cruces to El Paso, had over 3100 acres of vineyards and had become the nation’s largest wine producer, to the tune of almost a million gallons annually.
Pueblo revolts, harsh winters and frequent Rio Grande floods of the early 1900s proved too much for the vines, and by 1910, production had receded to barely 16,000 gallons a year. From 1919 to 1933, prohibition didn’t help matters. But since 1978, New Mexico has seen a rebirth of its wine country. Dedicated viticulturists and vintners have nursed the annual wine production back up to as much as 700,000 gallons and as many as forty-two wineries around the state.
One such winery and vineyard, Casa Abril, belongs to the family of Raymond and Sheila Vigil and is tucked away in a little-frequented area of northern New Mexico called Budaghers, located exactly thirty minutes from Santa Fe and Albuquerque, along the Rio Grande River Valley.
Sheila is a direct descendant of the first Romeros to arrive here in New Spain from the motherland, with Don Juan de Oñate in 1598. Raymond’s ancestors were from the northern Spanish village of Vigil, and they arrived here in 1605.
During the early 1900s, Raymond’s grandfather, Pablo Leyva, was a gold miner working in the small town of Golden. As the gold veins began to diminish, he moved to Madrid, New Mexico and worked as a brakeman in the coal mines. During this time, Pablo heard about a U.S government land grant advertising for settlers. Almost two thousand acres was divided into 350 acre parcels that stretched along the old Camino Real and was FREE to anyone willing to risk the perils of homesteading in those days. Only five families signed up. Among them was a Lebanese family named Budagher and, of course, Pablo and his wife Dolores. In Casa Abril’s tasting room Raymond proudly displays the land grant signed by President Roosevelt in 1938.
A short distance from the Interstate 25 exit 257 lies the Vigil’s quiet hamlet of homes, a family chapel and vineyards. In 2001, the first hundred vines planted at Casa Abril were Vinifera Tempranillo cuttings from Spain. It takes four years before grapes can be turned into good wine. Raymond says with a broad smile, “We’ve drunk many mistakes.”
In 2005, Raymond retired from his thirty-five years of computer tech positions in the corporate world and turned his efforts full-time to the development of the vineyards and perfecting the wines. They entered four wines in the New Mexico State Wine Competition held at the N.M State Fair under the categories of Amateur and Home-Made Wines, and won four bronze medals! Every year since, they’ve continued to win bronze, silver and gold medals. In 2009, they finalized the federal, state and county requirements to become a Federal Bonded Vineyard and Winery. In 2010, they held their Grand Opening.
After years of hard labor, ever since those first one hundred vines were planted, they have done an annual planting to expand the vineyards. Each season, buckets of their own vine cuttings sit ready to plant in the stark, pink, fertile earth. Now, their vineyards comprise 4000 vines, the largest in northern New Mexico, and in addition to the Tempranillo they produce Malbecs, Zinfandel, Tempranillo Rosè, Muscat Canelli, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Sangiovese.
The family continues to work on perfecting their wines and they continue to win awards. They produce approximately 12,000 bottles annually, and sell out every year to avid buyers around the country.
Years of Award Winners
Casa Abril was named for the significant presence of the month of April in their family’s history. To hear Raymond tell it, almost every reason for celebration in the family happened in April, from Raymond and Sheila’s birthdays, to those of his grandchildren. Raymond and Sheila met in high school and were married in April. In 2010 the Winery’s Grand Opening was held on April 25th – and the list continues.
There’s no doubt this is a family-run business from start to finish. Each of the children – son Ray and daughters Jamie, Kamie and Jody – has a role in bringing the fine wines to production, from planting the vines to marketing the final product. Daughter Jamie is the vintner in the family. She knows when the grapes are ready to harvest, and monitors the sensitive balance required to ensure the right amount of sweetness and ripeness for the best results. She also shunts the giant vats, and preps and manages the bottling, among other duties. As Raymond says, “She’s the boss!”
Vintner Jamie
“We tried using wooden barrels one year,” Raymond said, “No matter what we did to prevent it, they shrank in the desert dryness and leaked – a lot!” But don’t think they haven’t developed an all-natural means to add that special hint of oak to the bouquets.
The place is timeless and serene as it houses a thriving hive of modern wine industry. The warm, friendly atmosphere is that of an old friend, one who’s known you all your life and your conversation picks up just where it left off, and the wine scintillates your senses.
Stunning views of the Jemez Mountain Range make the winery’s shaded portal a great spot to relax and watch a dramatic performance of the rapidly changing New Mexico sky.
Jemez Mountains from Casa Abril’s Portal
And you can’t help but smile when Raymond steps behind the bar and begins his presentation of what he calls “a roller coaster ride of flavors.” From the Tempranillo to the Sangiovese, and everything in between, add a touch of Marcona almonds and chocolate covered raisins and you’re on your way from New Spain to Old Spain to Argentina and back again. My roller coaster partner Dave, expressed it best when he said, “It’s more than good wine – it’s an event in my mouth!”
As Raymond intertwines the tales of wine and history, you can sense his love and passion deeply rooted to his family, the land and the vines themselves.
I think some of those roots grabbed me by the ankle. They tug at me whenever I rush past Exit 257, dashing from one appointment to the next with time’s broad hand at my back. I look to the little family chapel poking just above the line of the juniper and piñon-dotted hills, and I know the family is hard at work and I know I’ll be back to visit before long.
Casa Abril is open ten months of the year, and everyone is welcome to “come taste the wine” – as the song goes – every Thursday through Sunday from noon till 5 p.m. with the exception of mid-December through January when it’s just too darn chilly!) For more information call Raymond at (505) 771-0208.
Daughter Jody of Casa Abril at SF Wine Festival 2013. Photo by Cindy Capelli, NM Wine & Scenic Tours.
New Mexico celebrates its rich wine culture throughout the spring, summer and fall with numerous festivals. The Santa Fe Wine Festival is held at the beautiful living history ranch, El Rancho de Las Golondrinas for a weekend early in July.
Black Mesa Winery at SF Wine Festival 2013. Photo: Cindy Capelli of NM Wine & Scenic Tours.
Though not exclusive to local wineries, everyone has likely heard of The Santa Fe Wine and Chile Festival, an annual culinary event. For five days every September at the Santa Fe Opera grounds, as many as a hundred wineries from around the United States arrive to offer their best tastings. Enthusiasts can pair up their favorites with delicious food samplings from up to seventy-five of Santa Fe’s best restaurants. Events include cooking demonstrations, guest chef luncheons, wine-pairing seminars, the Gruet Golf Classic and more. Tickets go on sale in early July, and they sell fast, so if you haven’t got yours yet, now’s the time!
I wasn’t aware I had an inner cowgirl until I had the opportunity to meet Joy Silha and her delightfully smart, sensitive horses ( and one adorable mule named Jimmy). Joy offers fun equine experience workshops that are as refreshing as they are original, and set at her beautiful ranch in the gently rolling hills of Arroyo Hondo, just five miles from downtown Santa Fe. Joy introduced me to her unique classes that are designed to awaken and strengthen the independent, fun-loving, free-spirited aspects of ourselves that may have slipped into the back seat of our busy, distracted lifestyles.
Joy and Poncho
The nature of these experiences is quite personal and gleans a lot of self-discovery and awareness, which makes them a little difficult to relate, but I am happy to share some of my day in the hopes that you’ll understand how fun and exhilarating they can be and grab the opportunity to discover your own inner cowgirl(boy).
Pack Horses
Over the course of history, horses have often been thought of as little more than a means of load-bearing transport. But their ability to live among humans offers us so much valuable information that, until recently, we’ve tended to ignore.
A horseman named Ray Hunt was instrumental in advocating on behalf of the horse as being worthy of respect, trust and reverence. He studied under Tom Dorrance, a rancher from Oregon who founded “natural horsemanship,” a gentle means to working with horses through feel and observation. During the late 1960s and 70s, Ray publicized the teachings by holding clinics around the country. Ray is famous for starting each clinic with the statement, “I’m here for the horse, to help him get a better deal.” He also said that if the horse wasn’t doing what you wanted, “you obviously did something wrong, and that’s just too bad. The horse, on the other hand, is never, ever wrong.”
Katie
As a prey animal, a horse’s natural condition is one of survival. They are alert to almost 360 degrees of their environment, and their entire body is sensitive to the slightest change in it, which offers instant biofeedback that we can learn a lot from…if we’re willing to listen with more than our ears.
All Joy’s classes involve “ground work,” meaning that nobody rides the horses. Everything is done on foot. Joy guides guests through a process of introduction so each person can connect with and “join up” with one of her horses for an hour or two of fascinating class time. She welcomes groups or individuals, and each experience is custom designed to suit the participant(s) and guaranteed to be unique.
I was five-years-old when I took my first ride at a local stables near our home in northwest England. She was a Shetland pony called Twopence (pronounced Tuppence) and barely five feet tall at the top of her ears. I was lifted atop an English saddle, and despite the protection of my sister’s oversized, hand-me-down equestrian garb of tall English helmet, jodhpurs, crop and riding boots, I was terrified. I was convinced that Twopence’s trot was a full-pelt gallop and that I was destined to be hurled into the sand dunes. Since then I’ve had a lot more experience and become comfortable around horses of all sizes, particularly the graceful giants. But Joy’s classes aren’t exclusive to those with a horsey past – anyone can enjoy and benefit from these workshops. From first-time horse encounters to those with an in-depth wealth of experience, her classes are fun for everyone. And regardless of my past experience, every new horse is a different personality deserving of respect and careful consideration in order to “join up” with them; after a brief introduction to her stables and work, Joy showed me how. She welcomed me into the corral with the horses and told me to walk around and see what happened.
From back left: Sierra, Katie, Poncho the palomino, and Jimmy the Mule.
I was fine with this idea and meandered into the corral with little sense of direction. Nothing happened. I stood about 20 feet from the horses, and although one came by and sniffed at me briefly, she didn’t find me interesting enough to stick around. After a few minutes, they all had their backs to me, like barflies huddled around the water trough. A crow gave a mocking squawk from a nearby juniper. Jimmy the mule decided he wanted inside the stable again, so he opened the heavy sliding door with considerable ease and moved into the shade. I felt a bit at a loss.
Barflies
I was overcome with an urge to sit down, right there on the dusty ground. I asked Joy if it would be alright, she said it would be okay, but that we’d have to be very careful. I plonked down in the dry sand and instantly Sierra, the gray mare, lifted her head from the trough and started walking toward me.
Curioser and curioser
She approached gingerly and stretched her long neck from a safe distance to sniff at this unusual bump in the corral. I leaned toward her to greet her snorting nostrils with snorts of my own, and there we were for a couple of minutes, just snorting at each other.
I felt chosen. In my mind we had become fast friends.
After this interlude, Sierra and I were definitely “joined up” and this event determined us as partners-to-be for the next exercise.
In a separate corral, Joy demonstrated her deft ability to communicate with a different horse, Katie. Humans are so reliant upon verbal and written means of communication, we forget and are often unaware of just how obvious our body language is. Horses read us, and the many layers of our psyche, loud and clear and it is amazing to see the instantaneous response to the subtlest of our moves. Joy worked her magic in the corral, at first allowing Katie to have a free, wild run, which was beautiful to watch.
Then Joy proceeded to move in ways that had instant effects upon Katie’s movements and behavior. It was like a dance: as Joy moved, Katie would stop, come toward her, set off in a trot, canter circles around her, all without words or the connection of rope and halter.
Watching this dance in no way portrays the incredible feelings I experienced when it came time for me and Sierra to do our ground-work. Suddenly, I was in the middle of a corral with a frisky loose horse who decided she wanted to have a wild run to stretch her legs and a roll to scratch her back before listening to me.
Sierra Roll
It is hard to explain in words what an eye-opening, revitalizing experience I had in that circle of sand.
Joined up and listening
As I became aware of my own posture, all my thoughts had to slam in to the present moment. The minute I was present and holding my own ground, Sierra started listening to my non-verbal direction.
After a little practice, I was able to entice her to canter, stop, follow, come toward me, all through commands she sensed through my body language. It was FANTASTIC!! I felt like a real horse whisperer.
At one point, I was walking, with Sierra following along, and we were connected. I looked over to the hills and the crisp blue sky, and for an instant, my mind drifted to thoughts of how great it would be if I could do this every day, and that was it…Sierra lost interest in me. I had dropped our connection. She took off in a different direction. It was that fast!
What an incredible practice of being present in the moment. Horses are in the moment at all times, and when we’re in the moment, and secure in our actions, they follow. Joy taught me that they need a leader. When I was being a leader, Sierra joined up with me, but when my mind drifted, Sierra instantly became my “monkey mind” police. I pulled my attention back to the moment, made a clear decision to move in a different direction, do my own thing, and she came back to me.
This whole experience made me feel invigorated, strong, and vibrantly clear-headed. By being so in the moment with Sierra, I felt as if I’d taken a true vacation from my usual daily stress mode of worries and nagging concerns, and entered authentic reality, which brought with it a strong sense of appreciation for the simplest of things and in simply being alive.
My connection with Sierra opened the doors of awareness to my own sense of leadership, my confidence (and fluctuating lack thereof). Her lessons stay with me many weeks later. When I’m feeling low, I remember my equine partner and think, “Sierra wouldn’t follow me right now.” And I’m brought back to the moment and I find my center and strength. She was a brilliant teacher, and taskmaster. There’s nothing like it! Everyone should experience this connection and discover the strengths and blind spots that lie hidden just beneath the surface and which can guide you to awaken your fun-loving, inner cowgirl, or cowboy.
Everyone and every horse, and every class is different, so my experience doesn’t suggest that anyone else’s would be the same. Joy is astute at finding the most effective way to guide you, or your group through a fun and valuable equine experience. Joy’s credentials include her studies with Ray Hunt, who, besides being an original proponent of natural horsemanship, was also a mentor to the well-known Buck Brannaman. Buck and Ray were the primary inspirations for Nicholas Evans’ book, The Horse Whisperer.
Joy and Poncho
Along with Joy’s many credentials and experience within the natural horsemanship school of thought and practice, she is a life-coach certified by Martha Beck (Oprah Winfrey’s coach). Her extensive experience with horses and teaching seamlessly integrates into the workshop, so you feel as if you’ve spent a couple of hours with a friend and her horses. I’m definitely going back again.
It was Roy Rogers’ wife, Dale Evans, who said, “Cowgirl is an attitude really. A pioneer spirit, a special brand of American courage. The cowgirl faces life head on, lives by her own lights and makes no excuses. Cowgirls take stands. They speak up. They defend the things they hold dear.” So, to answer your question, What is your inner cowgirl? Joy says, “It is a condition of the heart! And there are no better guides to reflect your heart than horses.”
Joy holds classes by appointment throughout the year. The best time to do a class is during calm weather. The winter months can be a bit cold, so spring (when it isn’t too windy) through the summer and fall are often ideal.
For more than thirty-six years, Alan Van Pelt’s specialty cutlery shop has literally been the source for the best cutting edge in Santa Fe. Tucked alongside the famous La Fonda Hotel, at the southeast corner of the historic Plaza, Cutlery of Santa Fe, with its creaking wooden floor and large glass displays, houses some of the rarest, extraordinary custom-crafted knives and utensils from around the world – most not easily found in bigger cities. Implements of myriad sizes, uses, and styles for every need, at prices for every budget, line this tiny store. But more than just a cutting edge, these tools offer insight into a wealth of history and artistry that I never expected to discover.
Some of the most elegant works include woolly mammoth tooth, obsidian, sapphires, rubies, and turquoise – just a few of the unique elements that adorn the steel that has its own beautiful design and interesting history. Damascus steel originated with sword-makers in Southern Asia and the Middle East, circa 300-400 B.C. The forging process included layering the steel as many as three hundred times, and a complex thermal cycling technique that allowed the organic layered patterns to appear in the blades.
Unlike other knife blades, Damascus steel is a unique composite of two or more alloys that are blended through the process of folding, heating and forging to render the ultimate in strength and sharpness. It is the stuff of legends, with its fabled ability to cut through a falling hair, or to slice through the barrel of a rifle. There’s no doubt this ancient technology makes for a dangerously sharp, durable edge and beautiful finished product.
Damascus steel blades with water pattern
The crafting of Damascus steel died out in the 17th century, perhaps due to the breakdown of trade routes from India’s alloy sources, or the secrecy of the process failing to be passed on through generations. But since the 1970s, modern artisans, with new technologies have revived Damascus steel.
This pocket knife, with a handle carved from three-thousand-year-old oak and a Rain Drop pattern Damascus steel blade, is at once a collector’s item and a highly efficient tool.
Rain drop pattern Damascus steel blade with 1000-year-old oak handle
As any knife enthusiast will tell you, the blade is just part of the importance of finding the right implement. The Japanese Santoku kitchen knife is a very popular item with Cutlery of Santa Fe’s foodie customers. Those with a culinary bent find the fine balance of a Santoku handle and blade makes for the most efficient slicing, dicing and mincing in food prep.
Santoku Kitchen Knife
Alan has traveled extensively in search of specialty knives. In the small village of Maniago in northern Italy’s foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, he found these miniature, hand-crafted pen knives that attach to your key chain. The various handle styles include rosewood, stag horn, and mother of pearl.
Since childhood, Alan has appreciated knives, their uses and art. “I’ve always liked pocket knives.” He says, “I’ve given them as presents since I was a cub scout.” It is clear he loves his trade. His collection extends beyond knives to include a variety of other handy implements, from embroidery scissors to corkscrews, carving sets and letter openers inlaid with turquoise, mother of pearl, lapis, coral, jet, and other rare and unique materials.
Letter Openers with inlaid handles
I particularly love this mesquite cheese board and spreaders infused with turquoise. At only $81 for the board and $15 for each spreader, what a great “prezzie” this would make for any household.
Mesquite Cheese Board and Spreaders with Turquoise inlay. Gorgeous!!
Every day Alan welcomes visitors and many a knife enthusiast who loves to discuss the craft and utilitarian value of the tools. He would be the first to tell you to always handle knives responsibly, as he deftly demonstrates the flick-of-the-wrist action with a specialty knife.
Stars of his collection are the custom-crafted knives, corkscrews, pocket knives, letter openers and more, made by Santa Fe Stoneworks exclusively for Cutlery of Santa Fe. Alan had the idea to inlay these steak knives with rare Siberian woolly mammoth tusk.
Woolly Mammoth Tusk Steak Knives. Cutlery of Santa Fe and Santa Fe Stoneworks.
The six-to-ten thousand-year-old fossil with damascus steel blades and hammer detail make these sets extremely unique. Though these are at the high end of the price range at $1150 per set, they make the ideal gift for the person who has everything!
For as long as humankind has been on the planet, cutting implements have been an essential piece of equipment. Alan’s collection of Daniel Bly hand-carved knives is reminiscent of man’s first cutting edge. Though they appear primitive, they are extremely sharp and highly efficient.
The handles are of found deer antler and the blades are hand-chipped obsidian, which is beautifully varied in its color and translucency. The process of hand-chipping the blades is called “knapping”.
Excalibur!
Every one of these knives is unique and highly collectible. Alan just counted his 1001st Bly knife he has sold, since he first opened in 1976.
Cutlery of Santa Fe has many loyal customers located all over the U.S who call for new additions to their collections or utensil needs. This dining set with inlaid turquoise is another favorite…
…And the inlaid steak knife sets made locally by Santa Fe Stoneworks.
I must admit that beyond the utilitarian aspect, I had never spent enough time around knives to appreciate their craftsmanship and artistry. By the end of my visit I was fascinated by it all. Before I left, I had to take a look at this masterpiece modeled after the original Bowie knife….
Damascus steel Bowie Knife with Turquoise and Buffalo Nickel
I couldn’t figure out an angle that would encompass this huge piece and all its attributes in a single photograph. Its stag antler handle is inlaid with a medallion of turquoise and a silver Buffalo Head nickel…
Its brass “bolster” attaches to 416 layers of Damascus Steel in a beautiful, organic pattern, with an ornately fluted, serrated top edge. This piece goes for around $900…Jim Bowie would’ve been proud!
I really enjoyed my time spent with Al at Cutlery of Santa Fe – it opened a world I hadn’t known about and expanded my appreciation for the cutting edges I’ve taken for granted in my own kitchen. Now I’ve certainly found a new resource for great gift ideas. Father’s Day is just around the corner, and I doubt there’s a man out there, dad or not, who wouldn’t appreciate a slice of steel from Cutlery of Santa Fe.
It’s late May and the weather is getting steadily warmer, trees are leafing their spring green, and it’s time to hit the High Road to Taos, stay overnight, take the Low road (Route 68) on the way back to Santa Fe, and discover a few great historical and cultural treasures along the way. Many areas of New Mexico offer authentic experiences for us avid time travelers who wish to drop the shackles of high-speed everything and remember a simpler time and lifestyle. The Scenic High Road is one of the best!
Only a thirty minute easy drive from Santa Fe (along the 285, to the scenic 503, and left on route 98), Chimayo, with its beautiful Santuario, sits quietly amid the early sprouting elms and cottonwoods, as it has since 1816.
Once through the village of Chimayo, you’ll come to a “T” junction at Highway 76. Take a right and you’re on the High Road heading toward historic land grant villages en-route to Taos.
This beautiful and easy scenic drive takes you by many art galleries, and studios. As many as seventy or more artists and artisans inhabit The High Road. In 1998, the artist communities of the historic land grant villages of Chimayó, Córdova, Truchas, Ojo Sarco, Las Trampas, Chamisal, Peñasco, and Vadito got together to form The High Road Artisans Group. Their mission is to preserve and sustain the longstanding, self-sufficient lifestyle and livelihood of these wonderful, historic villages. They are doing a great job of keeping the area simple and pristine and seemingly unfettered by modernity.
The whole area captures the essence of rural New Mexico from a time long past, with views reminiscent of Swiss Alpine meadows. The Truchas Peaks are some of the highest in the New Mexico Rockies at 13,101 feet. Precambrian quartzite forms their core.
At an elevation of 8,000 feet, the tiny village of Truchas (Spanish for trout) is an active artist community with many homes and galleries welcoming visitors to drop in and see beautiful original artworks. Trish Booth’s Ghost Pony is one of the first galleries on the left as you enter the village.
As I stroll through town, I’m struck by the peace and quiet. There’s nothing to interfere with the sound of the wind rippling through the flags at the Montez Gallery…
…and the racing acequia that draws from the Truchas River and rushes to irrigate those “Milagro Beanfields” and other farm crops the area is known for.
There are many galleries open year-round, including Hand Artes, Cardona Hines, Cortina, and others whose welcome signs you see as you cruise along the main road. But as the summer approaches, like colorful blossoms, more open up. And you must remember the last two weekends in September when the autumn colors are highlighted by the Annual High Road Art Tour.
Back on 76 and continuing toward Taos, there’s the artists’ co-op, The High Road Marketplace. It is open every day, year-round, and offers a varied selection of arts and crafts from along the High Road.
I could spend hours browsing the many unique treasures. I love this wooden serving bowl with turquoise inlay.
I’m not a smoker, but I couldn’t help falling for the artistry of these pipes made of wood and elk horn.
Before heading out of Truchas, I stop in at a relatively new gallery just past the Market Place. Joan Zalenski’s OffCenter Contemporary Fine Art and Photography welcomes visitors everyday from 10a.m. – 6p.m. and by appointment when you call ahead (505) 689-1107. Joan’s work is beautiful and she’ll even serve up a cappuccino or espresso as you enjoy your surroundings.
Photo: Joan Zalenski
I move on toward Taos, knowing there are more treasures ahead.
The road bends and suddenly there it is – the Las Trampas Church of San José de Gracia. Looking majestic and minding its own business for the past 200 years, and as its sign states, “one of the finest surviving 18th century churches in New Mexico.”
The village of Las Trampas (locally referred to as Trampas) was established in 1751 by twelve families from Santa Fe. At that time much of northern New Mexico was uncharted, and Spanish settlers risked being raided by Native tribes, such as the Comanche, Apache and Ute. Despite the dangers, seventy-four-year-old Juan de Arguello led the families to the land he had been granted by the first Governor of New Mexico, Tomás Vélez Cachupín.The church is now a National Historic Landmark, and the entire village is registered as a National Historic District. The church interior is usually only open on Friday and Saturday – donations are appreciated.
The High Road is lined with tall pines as it continues to wind through the mountain valley.
And the views of Taos’ mountains invite me ever onward to The High Road’s end.
The entire 70-mile drive can be done in as little as an hour and fifty minutes, if you’re in a rush. But The High Road isn’t meant to be rushed and when you’re stopping as much as I did, it’s best to allow at least half a day, about 3 – 4 hours.
The Sugar Nymphs Bistro alongside the Peñasco Theatre is a colorful and tasty roadside treat. The bistro is open for lunch, brunch and dinner. But different seasons call for different hours, so it’s best to give them a call first if you want to be sure of a table. (575) 587-0311.
The Peñasco Theatre, hand-built in the early 1940s, now serves as a community hub that offers year-round arts programs, and aerial trapeze acts, music, and one-of-a-kind theatrical pieces through the summer season. They are also home to an aerial trapeze school for adults and children. (575) 587-2726.
Traveling through this creative little town, I keep my eyes open for the many jewels embedded alongside and nearby its main thoroughfare. There’s the Gaucho Blue Fine Art Gallery, which carries a wonderful variety of works from local artists of the area (575) 587-1076. Marx Contemporary, Art For The Heart Gallery, and Walking Woman Gallery are a few other treasures, situated across from the Peñasco Post Office. Art For The Heart is a nonprofit project of the Mountain Ambulance Service, offering a walk-in art space with materials you can use to create your own work, and a lovely array of unique folk, fine and wearable art from as many as twenty five local artists. They also have a beautiful garden where folks can sit awhile and take in the summer’s blooms. They are open Thursday through Sunday 11am – 5pm, or by appointment. This would be a great place for a small group of friends of any age wanting to soak up some Peñasco art and charm to create their own pieces of High Road Art. Call Founder Jean Nichols to find out more (505) 417-0155.
Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is just a few miles away where the river runs through town, and although there’s plenty more to see and write about, it’s time to get settled for the evening.
Arriving in Taos around 5.30 pm, I check in at El Pueblo Lodge. I’m traveling with my quadruped best friend and El Pueblo caters nicely to those of us with dogs. A warm, friendly place with lush, shaded, grassy grounds, and southwest charm throughout. They are located just a mile from the Taos Pueblo and a short walk from the historic Plaza on the main vein through town, Paseo del Pueblo Norte.
A scrumptious dinner at Doc Martin’s Restaurant, located in the Historic Taos Inn, satisfies the gaping hunger I’ve conjured up during the drive. No, I didn’t eat all these meals, but thought it a good idea to show you how diverse and delicious their food is.
There are plenty of unique activities, museums and galleries to experience in Taos. Of course, the Taos Pueblo is a must, and I enjoy Wilder Nightingale Gallery, and Chimayo Trading Del Norte, the Blumenschein, La Hacienda de los Martinez, and others. For activities, there’s the wonderful experience of llama trekking with Wild Earth Llama Adventures, or if you visit in winter they offer snowshoeing tours (llamas don’t trek the snowshoeing tours). Here’s a link to a Taos Day Trip Guide with more detailed information on these and other ideas for your visit.
My return journey to Santa Fe is along the Rio Grande River Valley along route 68, sometimes referred to as the Low Road. It offers more stunning views and special finds. Today, there’s a slight haze in the air turning the mountains and Rio Grande Gorge many shades of blue.
Starting around April 20th and through August is the perfect time to raft the Rio Grande.
Their rigs are ready and a fresh bus load of eager rafters wait to board. New Mexico River Adventures are my favorites for rafting or kayaking the New Mexico and Colorado rivers. Of course the earlier you go, the higher the water and the bigger the rapids. The Taos Box is the highest part of this particular tour, where the water is more active during the early season. The lower stretch is called Racecourse and is a popular half-day ride. As the water lowers throughout the season, the challenge shifts from high water riding to rock navigation, which is also a lot of fun. And there’s plenty of nice easy cruisin’ to be done in between.
The road follows this stretch of river through the canyon and there are many stopping points to enjoy along the way. After about 27 miles I arrive in Velarde and stop in at Black Mesa Winery to say “Hi” to owner Jerry Burd. The vines are sprouting beautifully in the spring sun.
Black Mesa is well-known for their many delicious wine options, among them Pinot Grigio, Syrah, Montepulciano, and Riesling. A signature wine of theirs is the ever-popular Black Beauty, a red wine with a dark chocolate taste…mmm! Folks love to visit and sit in the shaded wine garden sipping their faves.
Whichever route you choose to get to and from Taos, you won’t be disappointed – there’s so much to discover along the way. And don’t be put off by winter either. Though there may be snow on the mountains, the roads are generally clear and the views are gorgeous!!
It is great to be out in the clear fall weather, strolling historic villages and looking at beautiful fine art and crafts.
If you need help planning your visit to the northern New Mexico area, please call me at (505) 470-2991 or write an email with questions to: [email protected]. I offer suggestions and trip advice based on my 30 years living in this enchanting area.
For more information on The High Road and other authentic experiences in Northern New Mexico please go to: SantaFeSelection.com Travel Guide
Thank you for reading my blog. If you’d like to receive my posts via email, please send your request to me at [email protected].
On June 1, 1993, TheCowgirl Hall of Fame in Santa Fe opened its doors to a town hungry for barbecue. And for twenty years, the bustling restaurant has served up dependably delicious food, drink and live entertainment and established itself as one of Santa Fe’s most fun and colorful characters.
In the late 1980s, two ladies, Texan Sherry Delamarter and Colorado native Pam McCleary, with the help of a few important investors, opened a restaurant called The Cowgirl Hall of Fame, in the West Village of New York City. The name paid homage to the original Cowgirl Hall of Fame in Hereford, Texas, and the food and decor honored the cultural heritage of the American Cowgirl lifestyle. One of its principal founding members was Barry Secular, a native New Yorker and semi-pro baseball player. In the early 1990s, Barry started a family and moved to Santa Fe. Ready to open a restaurant but being new to the area, he wasn’t sure what type of cuisine the locals would want. He placed an ad in the local Santa Fe Reporter and asked the question. The resounding response was “BARBECUE!” And so it was that 319 Guadalupe Street became Santa Fe’sCowgirl Hall of Fame.
Cowgirl BBQ Bar
Although the initial idea was based on the New York restaurant’s theme, there were necessary distinctions, which, over time, worked to make the two Cowgirls more distant relatives than sisters. Managing owner Nicholas Ballas describes the New York restaurant as being more of a novelty to the area, and its decor tends to exaggerate the cowgirl theme. “An obvious difference between New York and Santa Fe is you don’t have to go far in Santa Fe to find real ranchers and cowgirls,” he says. “For that reason, one of my jobs was to ‘keep it real’ in honor of our unique, indigenous culture.”
Keeping it real includes consistently serving up scrumptious, honest and affordable food, craft-brewed beers and terrific margaritas, and covering the glittering walls with photographic tributes to great cowgirls and rodeo queens throughout America’s history.
The name is now simply The Cowgirl BBQand the restaurant has definitely succeeded in being nourishing, fun and welcoming to everyone. Cowgirls and boys, workers of all collar colors, musicians, travelers and locals of every age converge here.
With a full kids’ menu, The Cowgirl caters to the littl’uns too. Moms are happy to eat and chat while their youngsters go safely wild in the outdoor play area. And the big kids can play pool in the game room.
The Cowgirlalways “smokes it right” thanks to Chef Patrick Lambert, who keeps pace with an extensive menu covering multiple borders from Texas BBQ, Mexico, and of course New Mexico. New items regularly appear on the menu in honor of regional and international cultural celebrations from Cajun and Creole for Mardi Gras to specialty bratwursts for Oktoberfest. And don’t forget the All-American winter comfort foods like braised lamb shank and meatloaf to get us through the colder months. The meats are organic and hormone-free, and there are plenty of fresh salads and meatless dishes to choose from for those of the veggie ilk.
To celebrate their 20th, they have created a monumental green chile cheeseburger called “The Mother of all Green Chile Cheeseburgers!” Chef’s proprietary blend of 100% hormone-free, organic beef, buffalo and bacon topped with green chile, brie cheese, and tomato is cocooned within a pretzel bun. Yes, it is the mother of all burgers and yes, it is delicious!
Cowgirl BBQ “The Mother” Green Chile Cheeseburger
The Cowgirlis well known for dishing out decadent desserts, including their famous Ice Cream Baked Potato – a monolith of vanilla ice cream dusted with chocolate and topped with whipped cream, all dressed up to resemble a baked potato! And this divine Molten Lava Chocolate Cake deserves honorable mention.
If you’re having a party or event they’ll bring The Cowgirl to you, or dedicate one of their ample-sized dining rooms to your group. Voted Best Full Service Caterer for three consecutive years by locals voting in The Santa Fe Reporter,The Cowgirl team runs a tight ship taking care of your event, both on site and on location.
Staying true to its desire to always keep the customer satisfied, The Cowgirl is one of the few places in Santa Fe that brings live musical entertainment to its customers daily. The afternoon and evening atmosphere is always vibrant. Now, as it gallops toward its twentieth anniversary on June 1st, 2013, The Cowgirl is preparing to ring in the next decade in style by planning an all-day-long block party celebration. Festivities will include live music from great local bands, freebies and giveaways of collectibles, and food and drink specials! The live music starts at noon, with Jim Almand, and continues through the day with The Bus Tapes, The Sean Healen Band, Jono Manson, Broomdust Caravan, Felix y Los Gatos, and The Joe West Revue. The Mayor will drop by at 2 p.m. to cut the birthday cake. Starting at 8pm on the patio, they’ll top off the evening with the live music of Bone Orchard.
This promises to be a terrific celebration and tribute to a well-loved restaurant and true local character. I’d like to say “Thank YOU!” to all the locals who voted for barbecue back in the 90s, and to the owners, and everyone since who has helped make The CowgirlBBQ the great joint that it is!
Two of the Cowgirl Owners, Nicholas Ballas and Chef Patrick Lambert
Whether you’re local or happen to be here on vacation June 1st, stop in and join in the celebration to wish the hardworking owners and staff a well-deserved “HAPPY BIRTHDAY!”
Update here –> There’s a trend on the rise, and it started right here in Santa Fe! Everyone knows that since the mid-1800s cowboy boots have been a favorite of presidents and kings, and of course, cowboys, riders, wranglers, farmers and fashionistas all over the world. The myriad designs of hand-tooled, multi-colored leathers from cowhide to snakeskin, with the sloping stacked leather heel and pointed toe, never go out of style. But thanks to Roy Flynn, owner of our favorite custom cowboy boot store, Boots and Boogie, the custom-designed, hand-crafted, monogrammed boot is fast becoming a must-have amongst young women, particularly brides-to-be, all over the country. This pair is made from alligator belly on the foot and side stripe with cognac-colored, “mad dog” goat on the shaft, with a beautiful script monogram.
Custom Monogrammed Wedding Boots
Update here –> Roy Flynn and the Boots and Boogie store are true Santa Fe characters. When I visited Roy recently, it wasn’t a surprise to find many people coming by just to chat awhile, and take photos of the tall cowboy and his unique array of high quality, custom-crafted boot designs that line the store like gallery art.
The living-room-sized sofa keeps you comfy while you try on boots, and take in all the artistry that surrounds you. It’s easy to hang out for awhile when your friendly host obviously loves what he does. And sure enough, a young bride-to-be came in to get her very own pair of monogrammed boots designed for her wedding in July. She was wise to plan ahead; a custom pair can take anywhere from a few weeks to five months to make.
Along with the extraordinary designs come some of the most unusual skins, including shark, stingray, gator, python, anaconda, hippo? Yes hippo, and even bullfrog!
Left and Right: Alligator. Center: Stingray skin, zebra design.
And if you don’t see something you like, you can create your own design. Pick and choose from skins, colors, designs, heel and toe shapes and sizes to your heart’s content.
Hand Tooled Blue Bonnets
Roy works with a select few specialty boot makers. He likes to think of them as the “Buick, Cadillac and Rolls Royce” of their trade. The majority of the boots are his own designs. He doesn’t carry anything that would distract from the art of the boots in any way. Roy says, “Nothin’ but boots allows for top-quality attention to the customer, the specialty design, service and finished product.” This shorter boot has a beautiful hand-tooled and painted rendering of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
Hand Tooled Our Lady of Guadalupe Boot
When someone loves what they do as much as Roy loves being a “custom boot guy,” it makes you wonder, do cowboys have more fun? “I get to meet some of the d’rndest people,” Roy says with his Texan lilt and beaming smile. “I have such a good time doin’ this.”
Another character and source of joy in Roy’s life is Boogie, his 9 year-old Malamute. “There’s nothin’ mute about him,” Roy says. “Boogie is a singer, and chatterbox. Every morning he sings along with me. It’s hilarious.”
Boots and Boogie and its wearable art is a Santa Fe attraction as worthy of a visit as a gallery or museum. In fact, at 73 years of age, Roy jokes about how Santa Fe is home to The Oldest Church and the Oldest House. “We can add that it’s home to the Oldest Cowboy Boot Guy too!” He says with a chuckle.
You’ll find Roy in the El Centro Shopping Center, across from the southwest corner of La Fonda Hotel. I recommend that everyone, whether in the market for a pair of boots or not, stop by and say “Hi”. You never know, you’ll likely learn more about why, according to Roy, “There’s nothing quite like being a cowboy late in life.”
A visit to Taos Pueblo is one of those quintessential New Mexico experiences that every traveler and local must have.
Constructed between 1000 and 1450 A.D., it is one of the most significant cultural and historical landmarks in the world. Taos Pueblo is a veritable 1000-year-old history book that remains almost as untouched by modernization today as it was in 1540, when the Spanish came upon the village and believed it to be one of the “Seven Cities of Gold.” Still without electricity or plumbing within its walls, the ancient village rises out of the earth and sits proudly afoot the sentry of Taos Mountain.
Eliciting all the nostalgia of a time long past, this tiered structure is called Hlauuma in the Native Tiwa language, meaning North House. There is also the Hlaukwima, or South House, across the river. These are said to be the oldest inhabited communities in the U.S.
The Pueblo is painstakingly maintained by its residents. The Tribal Council ensures the inhabited structures’ mud exteriors are repaired and refreshed each September to shore up against the onset of winter. The flecks of straw in the adobe plaster show that no modern shortcuts have been used in this process.
A tiny house sits abandoned on the south side. And although it lacks its new coat, it has a picturesque appeal that tells its own story — both inside and out.
The ancient bowing beams show the stress from hundreds of years under a heavy dirt roof.
The artery of the Rio Pueblo de Taos flows alongside the main plaza where traditional ceremonies are held. To this day, the river is the main source of drinking water for the Pueblo.
About 150 people reside in the Pueblo full time. Others have homes outside the historic village perimeter, but on the reservation land. The reservation covers 99,000 acres. Within the village there is little, if any, sign of modernization. The residents remain loyal to their duties that maintain tradition, but they have to work hard to balance their traditional lifestyles with the demands of modern existence, which for many, includes achieving a college education. An important element for the Pueblo economy is tourism and the sale of Native arts and crafts. Although there isn’t an abundance of curio shops, you can find mica-flecked pottery, silver jewelry, moccasins, boots, drums, art and weavings.
The curio shops are individually owned, as are the few food shops that offer traditional dishes and snacks. And today, the comforting smell of fry bread smoke rises from a few of the horno ovens.
The original San Geronimo (Saint Jerome) church was built in 1619. After being destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, it was rebuilt. In 1847 it became a victim of the war between the U.S Army and Mexico. Now only its bell tower and the dancing crosses of its graveyard remain.
In 1850 the San Geronimo Chapel was completed. It sits facing the main plaza and looks almost new with its fresh paint and carefully tended walls, windows and doors.
Its row of blue windows greets visitors as they first enter the Pueblo by the main street.
The view of Taos Mountain is framed by the courtyard entrance.
The ancient and complex Tiwa (sometimes spelled Tewa) traditions and Catholic rites exist harmoniously within the lives of the Pueblo people. This symbiosis is also apparent in the mix of annual ceremonials and Feast Days.
Taos Pueblo Annual Ceremony Dates:
Jan. 1, Turtle Dance
Jan. 6, Deer or Buffalo Dance
May 3, Santa Cruz Feast Day
June 13, San Antonio Feast Day
June 24, San Juan Feast Day
July 12,13,14, — 28th Annual Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow
July 25, Santiago Feast Day
July 26, Santa Ana Feast Day
Sept. 29, San Geronimo Eve Vespers
Sept. 30, San Geronimo Day, Traditional Pole Climbing
Dec. 24, Procession of the Virgin Mary
Dec. 25, Deer or Matachines Dance
Note: No photography is permitted during the ceremonies and Feast Days.
Taos Pueblo is usually open to visitors Thursday through Monday from 8 am to 4 pm, except when tribal rituals require it to be closed to the public. In winter, it will close for about 10 weeks, usually from February 1 through March 31st.
If visiting at any time, it is always wise to call ahead and check if it’s open or if any closures are likely during your dates. Taos Pueblo Tourism Department: (575) 758-3873 Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. The Taos Pueblo Visitor Information office has opened at 1201 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur (which is about 5.5mi from the Pueblo itself), it’s easy to find, located on the main road into Taos on Route 68.
All visitors must sign in at the entrance Visitor Center, pay the appropriate fees and adhere to the rules that respect the Pueblo, the privacy of residents, their homes and property. Adult admission as of August 2022: $16 per person
Students (11 and up, includes college with ID) and Seniors $14 per person, Military $10pp. These rates include camera fees, but restrictions apply to photography and its use/publishing etc.
I have seen many beautiful photographs of Taos Pueblo — all rendered its mystery and a sense of familiarity with the tiered shapes and brightly colored doors and accents. But until I had actually been there and walked its streets, I could never have said I’d seen it. Taos Pueblo is an experience, a captured time, an irreplaceable wonder; something there are so few of these days.
San Ildefonso Pueblo is a short and easy 25-30 minute drive north of Santa Fe. The Native Tewa name of Po Woh Geh Oweenge means “Where the Water Cuts Through.” It is home to many Native American artists but the names of Maria and Julian Martinez are two of the most famous.
San Ildefonso Historic Marker and Black Mesa
Maria Montoya Martinez and Julian Martinez were two of the most highly acclaimed potters in the Southwest. They became known throughout the world for their highly polished, black on black and polychrome ceramics.
Julian and Maria Martinez
Today, their legacy lives on, not only in many collections and museum exhibits around the world, but in the art of the many generations of direct descendants they left behind. A leader of the tradition is Cavan Gonzales, Maria and Julian’s great-great-grandson, and a highly acclaimed, award-winning potter in his own right.
His Tewa name is Tse-Whang meaning “Eagle Tail,” and since he was five years old he has been winning awards in art shows and museum exhibits across the nation. In the family’s Pueblo gallery, Sunbeam Indian Arts, there’s a large, deep basket spilling over with award ribbons that members of this artistic family have won over the decades.
Like his ancestors, Cavan specializes in polychrome, black on black and black on red pottery with intricately painted motifs. He is also an established painter, with works placed in the Kennedy Center in Washington D.C, and at the New Mexico State Capital in Santa Fe. Each August, collectors travel from all over the world to buy his latest creations at the famous S.W.A.I.A. Indian Market week (August 12 -18th, 2013). This year will be no exception. Cavan has been hard at work all winter to bring a new collection into existence.
Avanyu (Water Serpent) Polychrome Jar
This large pot is the Avanyu (Water Serpent) Jar, and is inlaid with turquoise. The Avanyu symbolizes the importance of water to the Pueblo people. The head represents the flowing of water down an arroyo or stream, the tail marks the ripples it creates. The tongue is the symbol of the lightning of a thunderstorm, and thunderclouds are above the curves of the serpent.
Cavan prefers to work in silence and solitude. It is a deeply meditative practice that requires a lot of presence and connection with the clay. I asked how long it takes to finish a piece and he said, “The pot determines how long it needs. Sometimes it can take many months or as much as a year before it lets me know it is ready.”
On this occasion, he demonstrates the slip coat process for me. Dipping a cloth into the bright red slip, he carefully glides it across the vessel’s thirsty surface.
It is clear that pottery making is a practice of devotion for Cavan. His mother Barbara Gonzales (Tahn-Moo-Whe, Sunbeam), agrees, “Many people think we make lots and lots of pots at a time just so we can sell them, but that’s not how it works.” Barbara is Maria Martinez’s great-granddaughter. She is well-known for her beautiful, award-winning “swish pots”. The enclosed saucers hold unique stones and lightweight mementos that when stirred create a swishing sound.
Cavan gathers his own clay twice a year from the hills of the San Ildefonso reservation. This spring he’ll collect “after the winds and before the rains.” He takes the time to sift the earth at the collection site, and later he mixes it with water and the volcanic ash he has collected, to perfect its consistency. The diverse colors of the earth provide different tones of slip and paint for the designs.
Pink clay dirt, white volcanic ash and a polishing stone.
Finding the right size, weight and surface smoothness of the polishing stone is also important. Cavan polishes the new slip surface to a brilliant shine.
Polishing the jar
And the blade of a yucca plant is transformed into a fine paintbrush. Its outer layer is cut away at the tip to expose the brush-like interior fibers. It takes a very steady hand to paint such intricate and exacting motifs.
Demonstrating the yucca blade paint brush
In a corner of the Sunbeam Gallery, the family have a case dedicated to Maria and Julian. Photos, pots, books and memorabilia remind all visitors of the importance of the family’s heritage.
Cavan remembers his great-great-grandmother very clearly. He loved to watch her work. He was eleven years old when Maria passed away in 1980; she was 99. Barbara remembers her great-grandmother’s personality too and says, “She had a great wit and sense of humor.”
Maria’s old adobe home sits abandoned just down the road from the Gallery.
Sunbeam Indian Arts Gallery is in the family compound with convenient access from the main road off the highway, and spacious parking.
Sunbeam Compound Entrance
It is the first sign you see just before you enter the village. Cavan’s father Robert runs the gallery and is a wealth of information on the family and its history.
Sunbeam Indian Arts is filled with beautiful work by all members of this extraordinary family tree, all the way to Cavan’s four-year-old daughter. Visitors are welcome at the Gallery every day from 10am to 5pm (except Feast Days, Christmas and Thanksgiving Holidays). Cavan and Barbara are also available for custom lectures of their work and heritage, by appointment only. Contact Robert and Barbara for rate information at (505) 455-7202.
It is an easy and beautiful scenic drive out of Santa Fe along Highway 84/285 north 15 miles, to the state road 502 exit (direction Los Alamos). Just 5.5 miles further to the San ldefonso Pueblo sign on the right.
Anyone looking for an authentic cultural experience and genuine works of Native American art would enjoy visiting the living history at Sunbeam Indian Arts.
What: See the New Exhibition on The Life of Maria Martinez
When: Sunday, April 28th, 2013 1:00pm- 4:00pm
Where: Millicent Rogers Museum Taos.
Cavan and Barbara Gonzales will be present. Here’s a map to the museum. http://www.santafeselection.com/map.php?d=16&c=173&v=2226
San Ildefonso Pueblo Information:
The Pueblo Visitor Center is open 8am-5pm, and sits just a few hundred feet past the road to the gallery. Keep in mind that once in the Pueblo village, driving is not permitted. Visitors may sign in and tour the area on foot. There is a $10 per car fee. If you’re in a bus or van the fee is $25 per vehicle, plus 50 cents per passenger. There’s a camera fee of $10 also. Other fees apply if you’re sketching or taking video. To reach the Visitor Center call: (505) 455-3549.
Thank you for reading my blog. If you’d like to receive my posts via email, please send your request to me at [email protected].
Although Ghost Ranch has been open to the public as a source of recreation for local communities and travelers since the early1900s, there are still many people, both locals and visitors, who don’t know about all it has to offer. It has been known as Georgia O’Keeffe Country for decades, but the beloved artist owned only a tiny portion of the vast 21,000 acres of varied and beautiful terrain. Its colorful Chinle rock formations and mesas are rich in history, dating back to the Triassic period (210 million years ago) when dinosaurs roamed the earth and New Mexico, along with the rest of the U.S., was located near the equator. The sweltering, humid, swampy landscape was home to the Coelophysis (Seel-oh-FY-sis) and other species of small carnivorous dinosaur.
Coelophysis Skull
There are two small museums on the property, one dedicated to the archeology of the area, the other to its paleontology. Paleontologists worldwide know Ghost Ranch to be one of the richest dinosaur quarries in the world. There was a “plate” of bones uncovered below Kitchen Mesa, just a short walk from the main buildings. Numerous skeletal remains were unearthed. Crushed together, it’s a jigsaw puzzle of bones, as if a flood or earthquake had caught a herd off-guard and trapped them for all time in the soft, pink rock.
Below Kitchen Mesa where a large number of dinosaur bones were unearthed
First known as Rancho de los Brujos (Ranch of the Witches), the homestead of Ghost Ranch has a wild and wending history that begins in the late 1800s with the dangerous, cattle-rustling Archuleta brothers. They named it Rancho de los Brujos — which served as a deterrent to anyone curious enough to wander onto the property. The Archuletas stole cattle and livestock and hid them in Box Canyon behind the ranch. The canyon was an ideal corral. It offered no way out without being seen as well as a source of fresh water for the cattle. It is said that those who tried to reclaim their livestock were killed by the Archuletas and buried in the area. The whistling winds blowing up the canyon walls were rumored by locals to be the cries of those unfortunate souls.
Kitchen Mesa
By the time Georgia O’Keeffe found her way to the ranch in 1934, it had been sold to Carol Stanley, who gradually sold it off in parcels to Arthur Pack. It was being operated as a dude ranch when O’Keeffe arrived. Pack wrote about his years on this land in two books, We Called It Ghost Ranch and The Ghost Ranch Story. The reclusive O’Keeffe wasn’t keen on the dude ranch idea, but she was happy to install herself in Ghost House for the duration of the summer. In 1940 Pack sold her his own ranch house, “Rancho de los Burros”– and 7 surrounding acres. Now, you can ride horses to the house, along a trail that leads you through the valley, under the watchful eye of Chimney Rock.
Chimney Rock
Our guide and veteran horseman Robbie Carter was a wealth of information on some of O’Keeffe’s favorite painting subjects. Before we set off he showed us a portfolio of many of her paintings of the area so we could spot them during the ride.
Trail toward Orphan Mesa
The trail winds around the undulating Lavender Hills, through the bright red pasture O’Keeffe called “My Back Yard,” and past her house that faces her favorite mountain: Cerro Pedernal. She called it her “private mountain,” and she said, “God told me that if I painted it often enough I could have it.”
On horseback I had an elevated peek at O’Keeffe’s summer house and its view. It’s easy to imagine becoming hypnotized by the mountainous table of Pedernal rising above the serene waters of Abiquiu Lake. This house is not open to the public, so I felt lucky to be able to get this close to it. I’m told it remains exactly as she left it.
View of O’Keeffe’s Summer House and Cerro Pedernal
Beyond the great artists’ pervasive influence on the minds of visitors, today Ghost Ranch is a veritable playground for kids and adult lovers of the outdoors. In 1955, Pack gave the ranch to the Presbyterian Church with the understanding that they would not develop it, ensuring its pristine land remains a natural preserve. The nonprofit organization now offers a plethora of activities including geology, paleontology and archeology tours, hiking, horse riding, art, history, astronomy, archery, spiritual retreats of various doctrines, yoga retreats, and even high and low ropes courses, to mention a few. Guests can choose from an extensive calendar of workshops, classes and outdoor activities throughout the year.
It’s an easy 50-mile drive north of Santa Fe, but an entire day may not be enough to experience it all. No problem – they have lodging facilities from dorm-style to guest suites. There is a cafeteria which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and accommodates both meat eaters and vegetarians with a couple of well-thought-out options. Breakfast is only $8 per person, lunch $10, and dinner $12.
For day visitors there is a $3 conservation fee, which grants you entry to both the paleontology and archeology museums, access to hiking trails and all public areas of the ranch. And the outdoor areas are pet friendly (dogs must be leashed). The fee for commercial tours/groups is $5 per person and the guide is free. If you wish to participate in a scheduled activity, call ahead to let them know you’re coming. (505) 685-4333.
The guides at Ghost Ranch are well-versed in the vast history and flora and fauna of the area, which makes the numerous variety of hikes and trail tours they offer all the more fascinating. You are free to roam around by yourself if you wish, but one word of caution they share is that if you’re hiking unguided, you must sign in at the Welcome Center and sign out when you leave. I would recommend being guided, so you can find your way around to the most interesting points, and learn a lot more than you’d expect, and because it is surprisingly easy to get spun around and lost.
After spending an entire day at the ranch, I returned home with the knowledge that I would sleep like a baby after a lovely, long day’s adventure, and feeling inspired to return to spend more time. Perhaps I’ll take a class, or maybe do a yoga retreat, or just spend a nice quiet weekend away from the bustle of the norm.
What to Bring:
Whatever the time of year, bring a hat for shade, sunglasses, and wear light layers in the summer, such as t-shirt, shorts, and light jacket, and sensible hiking shoes. Remember, that in the summer there may be brief monsoons in the afternoons. For spring, fall and winter the only difference would be your layers are warmer. Always bring water! Chapstick and sunscreen are strongly advised.
